Category Archives: 2026

Calvin Wrap Dress

Having made the Calvin Top a couple of weeks ago, it was a quick job to bring it together for the dress. The True Bias Calvin comes as a top and a dress version. The pattern features exposed bias binding that becomes the ties of the dress. The dress is midi length with a generous wrap front. My favourite feature and what I bought the pattern for, is the adjustable straps.

The bonus of making the top as a wearable toile was being able to test out fabric choice as well. The linen worked really well for the top but once I had worn it, I decided I wanted a drapier fabric for my dress version. I’ve always loved the Atelier Brunette brand of fabric. I was so happy to find 3 meters of the Kaola Pecan Pie in Viscose from Maaidesign online fabric store. They stock such a huge range of beautiful fabric.

I made the size 12 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. Wrap dresses have the advantage of being adjustable so it’s easy to adjust. The pattern is interesting because the back panels have a slight curve to it which makes it skim the body in a flattering way. 

I used the same fabric to make the bias binding. The exposed bias which become the straps and there is a fair amount. I was just mindful that I wanted to use my fabric with the least amount of waste, so I angled the binding just slightly off bias. I was very happy with the result, and I still have a small amount left for a future project.

This dress deserved special fabric because I was making it to wear to my daughter’s graduation ceremony. It just feels like yesterday that I was dropping her off at kindergarten, and it feels surreal that we are passing this milestone. The ceremony was held outdoors, and it was a hot and windy afternoon. Luckily, the wrap in the front was generous and there was no risk of wardrobe malfunction. I had also put in the optional snap to avoid any chance of gaping in the bodice, but it felt very secure anyway.

It felt so good to make and wear this dress. True Bias patterns are one of my most sewn patterns because they are reliable and truly elegant designs. The instructions and illustrations are excellent and I was able to sew this in one weekend. I love that now this dress will be a permanent reminder of this precious milestone for our family.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tie Dress No 2

When Sara asked for testers for the Sewing Therapy Tie Dress No 2, I immediately put my hand up because the Tie Dress has been one of my tried-and-true patterns for a while now. I just love how adjustable the ties are and it’s a dress that is always comfortable. This second version of the Tie Dress comes with a button placket or a wrap front. There is also an option for short sleeves or long sleeves. I decided to test the wrap front, short sleeve version but I will probably be going back to sew all the versions.

Testing is always breakneck speed because Sara is an incredibly hard-working creative. She has produced a vast catalogue of patterns, each one beautifully drafted and detailed and each one come with written instructions and sew along videos accompanying them. She produces everything to a superb quality. It’s the same with her testing, she responds to questions and feedback so quickly that I think, did she have time to sleep yet? I hope so! Being on the other side of the world, I was always amazed at how promptly she could reply. The thorough testing means that the pattern comes together perfectly for the person sewing and the construction is logical and easy to follow. 

My version is the Size 12 without any modifications for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. I really like how the wrap sits and there is no risk of it gaping. The dress is midi length or short. I was testing length and I left mine slightly longer than the midi it was drafted for. 

The Tie Dress No 2 is drafted for woven fabric. I was excited to find some midweight linen-cotton which was perfect for the pattern. I did also put together another dress for the test which I will finish soon where I used up a mix of gingham fabric. I think any stable woven fabric is great for this dress.

Sara has done it again with this dress pattern. I see myself sewing this pattern again with the longer sleeves when the weather starts to cool down. I love how this version of short sleeves are ruffled which is a cute feature. I’m loving how comfortable this dress is to wear as well. Having the adjustable ties means that there will never be a day where this dress is too tight or big to wear. I think that’s why I keep returning to make the tie dress. It’s been great to be sewing and testing again especially in a supportive and creative environment.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Calvin Wrap Top

Choosing my first project for the year has been hard and I’ve been dithering. So instead of sewing, I cleaned my sewing space, and I was inspired when I came across this awkward piece of leftover fabric from my collaboration with Maaidesign last year when they were featuring designs from Johanna Ralph. This fabric design is named Silent Bloom which features a beautiful abstract design.

I had about half a meter leftover and a long strip which was about 15cm in width. I had enough for the bodice pieces because the fabric width was about 150cm. What I struggled with was fitting the bias pieces for the ties and straps. I considered using pre-made bias binding or perhaps a contrast binding. However, I’ve been trying to be more conscious about fabric waste, so I decided to cut on a bias but not a true bias. I made sure that I cut the neckline piece on a true bias but not the longer strips. 

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I chose to make the size 12 without any modifications. The Calvin is a wrap top or dress. Ultimately, I want to make the dress, but the top makes a great wearable toile for the dress. The straps are adjustable and one of the reasons why I wanted to sew this pattern was to learn how to install the bra sliders that make the straps adjustable. The instructions were fantastic to learn and sew from which is why I return repeatedly to True Bias patterns to learn new skills.

A word on my bra sliders, the ring is right but the sliders are not. They would normally be used for detachable straps but these were the only ones available at my local Spotlight store so I just bought them but I’m planning to swap them over when I can get hold of the right sliders. Those with an eagle eye have probably already spotted them from my Instagram reels.

Happily, the slight change with the longer strips of bias binding worked fine. The pattern came together quite fast and I didn’t feel a need to modify anything. I was worried about the length of the top before starting but didn’t change it because it’s a toile for the dress. I’m very happy with the top length which hits below the natural waist.

I’m now looking forward to sewing the dress version. Using the linen was fine for the top but I’m thinking about drapier fabric for the dress. Making this top has me so excited about sewing again. I didn’t realise how much I was missing it until sitting back at my sewing machine. It has been a bit of respite from a tumultuous and distressing end to 2025.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em