Patterns And Fabrics – Em Sew Happy Blog

Eliza Trench Coat

Here in the Southern Hemisphere, the weather is cooling down. Although we don’t get the freezing temperatures that bring snow, it does get cold enough to need a jacket. I’ve really wanted to challenge myself to making more outer wear and gaining more tailoring skills, so I thought the Papercut Patterns Eliza Trench Coat had all the elements I wanted to try. It can be made into a long trench coat, but I feel that I would get more wear out of the short coat. It has two choices of pockets, the welt pocket and the patch pocket. Of course, I’m choosing the welt pockets because I’ve never sewn those before. It also has the cool feature of the storm flap and is fully lined. It also has the belt, but I don’t know if I’ll be worrying about using that.

Features of the Papercut Eliza Trench Coat

This pattern is for intermediate sewers, and I must admit that it did stretch my limits. Mainly, in the sewing of the welt pockets! I think it me two hours to sew one. The instructions were excellent and there were illustrations, but I would have loved a photographic tutorial. But like anything you learn the first time, it was much easier, faster and I didn’t make the same mistakes with the second pocket. Practise makes progress! I’ll try put my pictures here if anyone else is attempting the Eliza Trench.

Pocket bag. Make sure to mark wrong side

The shape of the coat reminds me of the Nova Coat. It has the same sleeve profile which is so comfortable to wear. I made the size 4 because my sizing fell between the size 4 and 5. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. I just remembered sizing down with the Nova Coat about 2 sizes, but I wouldn’t do that with the Eliza Coat. I think this feels very comfortable for me. I’ve styled it with a jumper for my photos just to test what the bulk would feel like, and I still have the degree of movement needed to be functional.

Fabric choice was easy! I was going for the classic camel coloured trench coat with a lining inspired by a certain brand you think of when thinking trench coats. Hint, it starts with B and ends with berry. The outer fabric is a beautiful soft drill that I found at Spotlight Stores. It has the slightest stretch to it but not too much. It hasn’t got the usual coarse feel of a drill so I’m so happy with it. I’ve lost my receipt so I can’t put the exact description here. The lining is a classic tartan suiting fabric. I chose it for lining because it has enough drape to move well. I think the choice for lining really makes a difference to the feel of a coat. Something stiff in this would just feel restrictive and may even change the way the coat sits.

I’m so happy with the pattern. I think I made a mistake with the tuck in the lining going the wrong way at the bottom, but it was the only bit in the instruction I couldn’t figure out. The rest of the instructions were superb. To clarify, I’m self-taught and there were no sew-along videos for this coat so I’m so proud and happy to have made this with only the instructions in front of me (they really were excellent). Very excited to add this to my handmade wardrobe!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Emma Top

Needle and Thread Patterns is new to me. I was fascinated by Mia’s minimalist but classic designs. It was the Emma Top that caught my eye and I was excitedly waiting for the release of the pattern when she reached out to see if I wanted to try a pattern. I was super excited and of course, I jumped on the chance to collaborate.

The pleated sleeves caught my eye. This is the special twist that she gives all her patterns. The simple silhouette with a special detail. I love the ¾ sleeves on this V-Neck, A-line top. The way that everything is finished so beautifully is something to enjoy in this pattern.

This pattern does not include seam allowance. It did stop me in my tracks at first because this is the first time I’ve come across this. I’ve read that designers do this to increase accuracy with sewing. It can also be a way to provide flexibility with the seam allowance to accommodate different fabric substrates. There were a few options for adding the seam allowance. If experienced, trace and cut straight onto the fabric. I felt that I needed some help judging where to cut. I think some people use a double tracing wheel or magnets that can be attached to the scissors. I looked in our local Spotlight Stores and couldn’t find what I needed so I decided to stick the pattern pieces onto butcher’s paper and then add in the seam allowances accordingly.

I made a wearable toile because I was worried about my method of adding the seam allowance. I had some leftover cotton fabric which have these raised spun threads through the fine lightweight fabric. The toile worked well but I knew that for my final version, I needed a sturdier woven to help hold the shape of the pleated sleeves. The toiles confirmed my size of 42 for my measurements of 38-inch (97cm) bust, 33-inch (84cm) waist and 40-inch (102cm) hips. I tried the pleats for the sleeve in the toile, but it didn’t hold the shape very well because the fabric had too much drape, so I ended up taking the pleats out which is an option for the pattern.

For my next version, I chose a midweight linen. I’m really happy with this choice! It really showcases the sleeve pleats. Everything about this top is pleasing! The construction order and instructions were excellent to follow. It’s concise but with enough extra detail to guide a confident beginner. The blouse has set-in sleeves which gives it a shapelier fit and is so comfortable when you’re moving your arms. It passes my dinosaur arm test.

Mia has mentioned in her posts about the Emma Top that it is also possible to use a sweater jersey or interlock fabric. I plan to try this out soon as our weather is cooling down fast. I think for a thicker fabric, I would want to size up one size but I’m not sure. It would be a stable knit, so I don’t think you’d need to account for the stretch in the fabric.

Needle & Thread patterns has been a delightful discovery. I’m hoping to try a few more patterns. I feel so lucky to have been provided the pattern to review but all opinions remain my own. I’m so impressed by the ethos of this company to provide high quality, modern and versatile patterns. The Emma Top has been a good introduction to this.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Full disclosure: Pattern was gifted but all opinions remain my own.

Bob Woven Pants

This has been one of those patterns circulating in the sewing community, so I’ve been curious to try it. I’m so happy that I did because I immediately feel like making another pair. The Style Arc Bob Woven Pants are a barrel shaped pair of casual pants with side seam pockets and elasticated waistband.

For my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I was going to sew the size 14. After a conversation with a sewing friend on Instagram, I decided to sew the size 12 on her advice. It’s very handy to have friends with the same measurements! It was lovely to be able to save time and fabric as I dove straight in without toiling.

The pattern is for woven fabric, so I went to my local Spotlight to have a look. With great luck, I found the linen-cotton blend on sale! I nabbed a bargain and perhaps a few other meters of fabric fell into my shopping cart. The grey slate cotton-linen is a medium weight perfect for the pants. I wanted something sturdy to try emphasising the barrel shape. I thought, if I’m trying the barrel shape, I really want to see what it looks like. Better to test out from the outset whether this style suits me or not.

There has been some chatter in the community about the pockets. There are some clever ways of extending the pockets, so they sit under the front waistband. This would prevent them from flapping backwards. I decided to sew it with the pockets as is and it’s been fine for me.

For most past, I followed the instructions as written. The only part that I decided to sew my way was in the waistband construction. The pattern advises constructing the waistband, along with the elastic separate from the pants then attach the two. I felt that my machine would cope better if I attached the waistband first. So, I attached the waistband without the elastic. I then sewed the waistband closed leaving a gap of 10cm so that the elastic could be inserted. Once this gap was closed off, I finished the waistband seam on the overlocker.

Fit Photos of the Style Arc Woven Bob Pants

This is my first try of the trend for barrel shaped pants and I can see why the design is such a hit. This is one of the most comfortable pants I’ve ever made. I love the way the voluminous legs taper down at the ankles. I read somewhere that it’s inspired by French workwear and riding pants. I’ll now be on the lookout for a barrel shaped jeans pattern. This is my first Style Arc patterns. I was nervous about my capacity to figure out the brief instructions, but I found the pattern instructions are more than adequate and the whole process was so enjoyable. I also love that Style Arc has bonus patterns included with each purchase. I have a few more patterns I’m keen to start now. In the meantime, I’ll be reaching for my Bob Pants as much as possible.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

x Em

Revel Topper

This Sew House Seven Revel Topper caught my eye for several reasons. I love the look of the boxy top with its various sleeve options, but I was also very keen to try sewing a yoke neckline and the shawl collar. Sew House Seven is one of the pattern makers I used to learn from when I started sewing because of the excellent instructions.

I made Version A first as a wearable toile and checked the fit. Version A is sleeveless, but the bodice is wide, so the armholes drop over the shoulders to look like capped sleeves. In this version, I used the same fabric to make the facing but chose to sew the facing to the inside. The sleeves have facings as well which are deep and sewn down.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust and 33-inch waist, I made the size 12. I based my sizing on my bust measurements. My waist sizing falls into size 14 but looking at the ease, I felt that the size 12 would fit my frame better. The topper length is cropped but can still be tucked into high-waisted pants or skirts.

The fabric I used for version A was a cotton gingham. It worked well and I like the outcome, but the fabric makes me feel like I’m wearing a scrub top. For the next top, I felt like I needed something with a looser weave, so I chose to use a lightweight linen. Unlike the first version, I decided to use a contrast fabric for the facings. Searching through my scrap pile, I found just enough of the Maai Design Joanna Ralph Silent Bloom print linen.

Version B has short sleeves attached and I chose to use the contrast fabric for the yoke and sleeve facings showing on the right side. I think the contrast also helped to highlight the shawl collar. The lightweight linen worked well, and this time doesn’t feel like I’m wearing a scrub top. This is my favourite version of the top.

The Revel Topper fits well into my closet. When I first started sewing, I would just choose anything that caught my eye. Now I try to choose items that fit in well and that can be paired with at least three other items in my closet. My plans this year are to plug a few holes in my wardrobe but to make sure that the fabric and style fits in.

The pattern is rated for a confident beginner which is accurate. There are some watch points which are also great skill builders. The first is the yoke neckline, second is the shawl collar. There is also the French seam when joining the back bodice to the front. It’s a little tricky when sewing around the shoulder and the collar. It was easier to do with the lightweight linen than the cotton which was a stiffer fabric. Sewing down the yoke to the right side also requires some care to make sure both sides are even and neat. It was good to resew the pattern and I would love to make it again. I’ll be looking for fabric with fluid drape to make version C. I learnt so much from this pattern.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Casey Pants

Sometimes people ask me why I sew when you can buy items for very little especially with the emergence of so many fast fashion online stores. I guess they see a pair of shorts, but they don’t see that when you sew, you can adjust that pair of shorts to fit comfortably. You can choose to insert the inseam pockets that are fixed to the front. They also don’t see the careful selection of fabric that you choose for texture, drape and weight. So, it’s probably true that it would be cheaper to buy a ready-made pair of shorts, but nothing replaces the satisfaction of making the shorts that fits the way you like and with the perfect fabric for it.

I’ve made two versions of the True Bias Casey Pants. The first was the long mid-rise pants which I made as a tester for the pattern. The second version is the high-rise shorts which I’ve sewn recently. I usually document my makes as I go but I didn’t have a chance to write the first version after the test because I was leaving for my trip to South Korea. I knew I would come back to sew the pattern anyway.

My first version has been worn as pyjama pants because the pattern is based on the silhouette of boxer shorts. The midrise sits a couple of inches below the natural waist. I used ½ inch gingham which were super soft. I used the size 12 for my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. No adjustments were made.

For my short’s version, I chose the high-rise version which falls at the natural waist. This time I used a Lyocell Denim which was leftover from the Avril Dress that I made. I had just under a meter remnant that I could use for the Casey shorts. I made the size 12 again but this time I had to add length to hit the high-rise waistline. I’m 167cm tall and the pattern is drafted for someone 165cm tall. With the 2cm difference, I had to add 1cm using the lengthening / shortening line included on the pattern. This second pair is made for wearing during the day and not as pyjamas, so I left off the slit in the side seam.

I fitted pockets to both patterns. Usually, I don’t enjoy using in-seam pockets because they flap to the back, but these ones are fixed to the front when you fold the elastic waistband down to secure it.

The instructions are always good with True Bias Patterns. They’re straightforward, logical and easy to follow with the illustrations provided. Good instructions go such a long way to increasing the enjoyment in sewing.

Speaking of enjoyment, this pattern was a great one to pick for a nice afternoon of sewing. It’s great getting into a big, new, complicated pattern but sometimes it’s nice to be able to finish a pattern in one sitting. From assembling to sewing, everything is smooth sailing. I know some seamstresses like to trace but I like the used the layer option and print the size I need.

Now that I’ve made the adjustments that I like in the pattern, I’m planning to sew a few more which is another reason why I sew. Fast fashion items are often one off which means that even if you find something you like once, there’s no guarantee that you’ll find the same item a second time. So happy that I can sew. Probably sounds a bit smug but it’s satisfying to have the ability to make something specially to fit me.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Etty Camisole

This is my first Tammy Handmade pattern. It is always great when a pattern maker provides a free pattern to try. This is a lovely camisole with a scallop neckline. The neckline is a great point of difference. The length of the camisole with thin straps makes for an elegant looking top.

I was so happy to match the pattern to a beautiful piece of fabric that I had received from Devonstone Fashion. It’s a Liberty Tana Lawn named Mrs Gardener. The print shows brightly detailed flowers on an off-white backdrop. There was a recent showcase by Regent Street Fabrics and Two Green Zebras in Brisbane and Melbourne showing some beautiful Liberty fabrics. So many beautiful prints. It looked like such an inspiring event with all the outfits showcased on the catwalk. I was gifted 600 cm of this fabric but with the 130cm wide width, it was easily enough for this Cami top.

My measurement of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist sits between the size 12 and 14. The finished garment shows a bit of ease in the waist, so I chose my size based on my bust size and made the size 12 without any modifications. It’s a little bit snug under the arm but feels like a good fit. The pattern is true to size. Next time I would reduce the seam allowance by a little.

The construction was very beginner friendly. The steps were logical and easy to follow. The facings are attached separately to the front bodice and back bodice. It was also an easy method for attaching the straps. The instructions and illustrations are comprehensive so I feel that someone with little experience could pick up this pattern and follow it easily.

The cotton lawn is a lightweight breezy fabric. It’s a great fabric for a beginner to sew with because it’s stable. It’s also such a comfortable fabric to wear for summer. The most challenging part of the pattern was sewing the scallop neckline. The instructions were great for this, and it was a good practise for sewing curved lines. I really enjoyed the process, and I’ve seen Tammy use some decorative stitching in her versions and would love to try this next time.

Overall, a great experience sewing this pattern. I think Tammy Handmade is a great indie pattern company that I’ll be returning to. This camisole has been a great quick project. I’m tempted to try sewing a few in a batch even though my previous experience sewing in batch has ended in disasters. I think with a little bit more experience under my belt, I might try again. I’ll explore sewing with different fabrics next time maybe with viscose or rayon. It’s nice to be dreaming of things to sew.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Calvin Wrap Dress

Having made the Calvin Top a couple of weeks ago, it was a quick job to bring it together for the dress. The True Bias Calvin comes as a top and a dress version. The pattern features exposed bias binding that becomes the ties of the dress. The dress is midi length with a generous wrap front. My favourite feature and what I bought the pattern for, is the adjustable straps.

The bonus of making the top as a wearable toile was being able to test out fabric choice as well. The linen worked really well for the top but once I had worn it, I decided I wanted a drapier fabric for my dress version. I’ve always loved the Atelier Brunette brand of fabric. I was so happy to find 3 meters of the Kaola Pecan Pie in Viscose from Maaidesign online fabric store. They stock such a huge range of beautiful fabric.

I made the size 12 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. Wrap dresses have the advantage of being adjustable so it’s easy to adjust. The pattern is interesting because the back panels have a slight curve to it which makes it skim the body in a flattering way.

I used the same fabric to make the bias binding. The exposed bias which become the straps and there is a fair amount. I was just mindful that I wanted to use my fabric with the least amount of waste, so I angled the binding just slightly off bias. I was very happy with the result, and I still have a small amount left for a future project.

This dress deserved special fabric because I was making it to wear to my daughter’s graduation ceremony. It just feels like yesterday that I was dropping her off at kindergarten, and it feels surreal that we are passing this milestone. The ceremony was held outdoors, and it was a hot and windy afternoon. Luckily, the wrap in the front was generous and there was no risk of wardrobe malfunction. I had also put in the optional snap to avoid any chance of gaping in the bodice, but it felt very secure anyway.

It felt so good to make and wear this dress. True Bias patterns are one of my most sewn patterns because they are reliable and truly elegant designs. The instructions and illustrations are excellent and I was able to sew this in one weekend. I love that now this dress will be a permanent reminder of this precious milestone for our family.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tie Dress No 2

When Sara asked for testers for the Sewing Therapy Tie Dress No 2, I immediately put my hand up because the Tie Dress has been one of my tried-and-true patterns for a while now. I just love how adjustable the ties are and it’s a dress that is always comfortable. This second version of the Tie Dress comes with a button placket or a wrap front. There is also an option for short sleeves or long sleeves. I decided to test the wrap front, short sleeve version but I will probably be going back to sew all the versions.

Testing is always breakneck speed because Sara is an incredibly hard-working creative. She has produced a vast catalogue of patterns, each one beautifully drafted and detailed and each one come with written instructions and sew along videos accompanying them. She produces everything to a superb quality. It’s the same with her testing, she responds to questions and feedback so quickly that I think, did she have time to sleep yet? I hope so! Being on the other side of the world, I was always amazed at how promptly she could reply. The thorough testing means that the pattern comes together perfectly for the person sewing and the construction is logical and easy to follow.

My version is the Size 12 without any modifications for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. I really like how the wrap sits and there is no risk of it gaping. The dress is midi length or short. I was testing length and I left mine slightly longer than the midi it was drafted for.

The Tie Dress No 2 is drafted for woven fabric. I was excited to find some midweight linen-cotton which was perfect for the pattern. I did also put together another dress for the test which I will finish soon where I used up a mix of gingham fabric. I think any stable woven fabric is great for this dress.

Sara has done it again with this dress pattern. I see myself sewing this pattern again with the longer sleeves when the weather starts to cool down. I love how this version of short sleeves are ruffled which is a cute feature. I’m loving how comfortable this dress is to wear as well. Having the adjustable ties means that there will never be a day where this dress is too tight or big to wear. I think that’s why I keep returning to make the tie dress. It’s been great to be sewing and testing again especially in a supportive and creative environment.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Calvin Wrap Top

Choosing my first project for the year has been hard and I’ve been dithering. So instead of sewing, I cleaned my sewing space, and I was inspired when I came across this awkward piece of leftover fabric from my collaboration with Maaidesign last year when they were featuring designs from Johanna Ralph. This fabric design is named Silent Bloom which features a beautiful abstract design.

I had about half a meter leftover and a long strip which was about 15cm in width. I had enough for the bodice pieces because the fabric width was about 150cm. What I struggled with was fitting the bias pieces for the ties and straps. I considered using pre-made bias binding or perhaps a contrast binding. However, I’ve been trying to be more conscious about fabric waste, so I decided to cut on a bias but not a true bias. I made sure that I cut the neckline piece on a true bias but not the longer strips.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I chose to make the size 12 without any modifications. The Calvin is a wrap top or dress. Ultimately, I want to make the dress, but the top makes a great wearable toile for the dress. The straps are adjustable and one of the reasons why I wanted to sew this pattern was to learn how to install the bra sliders that make the straps adjustable. The instructions were fantastic to learn and sew from which is why I return repeatedly to True Bias patterns to learn new skills.

A word on my bra sliders, the ring is right but the sliders are not. They would normally be used for detachable straps but these were the only ones available at my local Spotlight store so I just bought them but I’m planning to swap them over when I can get hold of the right sliders. Those with an eagle eye have probably already spotted them from my Instagram reels.

Happily, the slight change with the longer strips of bias binding worked fine. The pattern came together quite fast and I didn’t feel a need to modify anything. I was worried about the length of the top before starting but didn’t change it because it’s a toile for the dress. I’m very happy with the top length which hits below the natural waist.

I’m now looking forward to sewing the dress version. Using the linen was fine for the top but I’m thinking about drapier fabric for the dress. Making this top has me so excited about sewing again. I didn’t realise how much I was missing it until sitting back at my sewing machine. It has been a bit of respite from a tumultuous and distressing end to 2025.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Rectangle Top

When I bought this pattern, I didn’t expect to be making such a playful, elegant blouse just from two pieces of rectangles. I’ve been using Sewing Therapy patterns for a while now and have come to expect reliable, beautiful patterns from Sara who is the creative behind Sewing Therapy Patterns. This blouse really exceeded all expectations. I’ve made the View A, but I can see myself making View B and C as well soon.

Best of all, Sara drafted this top to use up remnants. For this top, I used some remnant polka dotted rayon. It was something I bought from East Coast Textiles which is sadly no longer trading. I chose the rayon because of the fluid drape of the fabric which suits the shirring. I like how Sara has a table setting out detailed instructions on how to choose the right fabric. I would have loved this when I first started sewing because fabric choice only improves with experience and I use to agonise over it, sadly sometimes making a mistake.

For the Size L, I used less than 1 meter of fabric. I chose the L from my bust measurement of 38 inches. It’s a very beginner friendly pattern for sizing because there is such a range and ease in the pattern. I really love how the shape is given by stitching and shirring. Speaking of shirring, I had almost forgotten how to do it. Sara does explain it very well in the pattern, but I find that my machine is always the exception when it comes to these things. I tested on a scrap piece of fabric, but it didn’t work. I found that for my machine, I had to wind the shirring elastic onto the bobbin with a bit of tension, and I had to turn up my machine tension. I also followed the instructions in increasing my stitch length. The main thing is to test before starting on the real piece.

Sewing Therapy Instructions always come with YouTube videos which are wonderfully high quality. This time, Sara has included beautiful hand drawn illustrations with her written instructions which are so useful too. I watch Sewing Therapy videos for general relaxation anyway. It’s the perfect Sunday afternoon reset activity.

I have some remnant linen which I will be using up with my next rectangle blouse. This project was a quick sew which is great when time or energy is short. It’s also a good project for those last minute makes when you have an event you need something for. Overall, a fun few hours of sewing!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em