Patterns And Fabrics – Em Sew Happy Blog

Aster Top and Dress

Sometimes, I get so excited about new release patterns, I forget to look at what is already in my sewing queue. I bought the True Bias Aster Top & Dress when it was newly released in 2023 and finally got around to toiling it last year. I fell in love with the classic lines of the dress and the square neckline immediately. This style is exactly what I love in a dress. The dress is a shift with broad arm straps which is part of the pattern. It has a squared off neckline and armholes. After making the toile with the top, I put it aside as I often do, until Kelli from True Bias Patterns mentioned she was looking for someone to make and photograph the dress, which was a good prompt for me to return to it!

As mentioned, I made the Aster Top as a wearable toile. It was a good first step because the fit was perfect for the bodice and that was the main area I wanted to check. I must be honest and say that it’s not a top I have reached for very often because it’s a bit short and I’m a bit self-conscious about showing my belly. I might unpick the hem and try to add a ruffle to extend the length. It did work well as a toile, and it did help me with fabric choice too.

The pattern is made for woven. I had brought back some fantastic fabric from my trip to South Korea. I have a blog post where I detailed my experience doing fabric shopping in South Korea. All my fabric ended up being delivered to my hotel which I arranged with The Linen Lab who I was so grateful to for accommodating my travel plans. It was a wonderful experience which they made stress free. I decided to use this beautiful soft green chambray linen for the dress version of the True Bias Aster.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, the size 12 was the perfect fit but I lengthened the dress by 6 inches so that it would fall a bit below my knees. The original pattern is a shift dress mini which hits a few inches above the knees. The pattern has lengthening and shortening lines, so it was easy to slash and add the 6 inches of length with some paper. I added the length to the front piece, back piece and the button placket interfacing strip.

The dress looks like a simple shift, but the twist comes with the button placket being in the back. Initially I worried about the buttons showing more than I wanted and wondered if it would be difficult to do up the buttons to wear the dress. Since finishing the dress, I found that I can slip the dress over my head without undoing the buttons. My lovely matching buttons were kindly gifted to me by my friend Eileen from my sewing circle.

Anyway, I really love this dress. It will be nice and cool, and it will be lovely to wear this soft linen on a hot day. It’s good to be working my way through my sewing queue and finding gems like the Aster Dress that will become TNT (tried and true) patterns. I’m so grateful that Kelli was featuring this pattern because it’s been one that I’ve loved making and wearing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Daisy Dress

When I saw that Tammy from Tammy Handmade was looking for testers for her latest pattern, I was quick to apply. I had sewn her free pattern, the Etty Camisole earlier this year. Her patterns are well set out and written, and I liked how her pattern fit me. The Daisy Dress is the latest pattern and has the bonus of including cup sizes. It’s a summer dress with the option for sleeves, straps of different widths or adjustable straps. It also comes in two lengths and has elasticated or shirred back bodice. This dress is the ideal holiday dress that I’ve been looking for!

Being a tester means that we get to preview the pattern before release. I was so impressed by how much work had gone into the pattern before testing. It was such a pleasure to sew and test this pattern. I chose to sew the Size 14 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. There was some give in the fit because of the shirred back so even though it is fitted through the bodice, it wasn’t necessary for me to grade at the waist as I would if it was a fitted dress with a different closure like a zip.

Tammy also mentions that this is the first time that she has included cup sizes in her pattern. It makes it so much easier when pattern makers include cup sizes! I used the B/C/D cup. It’s easy to choose the cup sizes with the inclusion of the upper bust measurements. Everything fits so perfectly because of this inclusion.

Ever since I used adjustable straps for my True Bias Calvin Dress, I’ve wanted to add this to other garments. Since one of my shoulder sits a bit lower than the other, I’m always dealing with falling straps. Oh, did I mention this dress has pockets?

With the gathered skirt, I thought I would choose a fabric with fluid drape. I came across this poppy printed rayon at my local Spotlight store. It had the perfect amount of drape and weight. I do love to wear rayon in hot and humid climates. It’s so comfortable and breezy. It’s also an easy fabric to sew because even though it’s lightweight and breathable, it’s fine to use the overlocker to finish the seams. No French seams required.

The part that I worried a little bit about was the shirred back bodice. I have used shirring in other patterns but not to such an extent as this pattern. At first, I followed the pattern where the fabric is doubled over to line itself the shirred. This didn’t seem to work for my machine even after playing with the tension and stitch length, so I made the back bodice with white muslin lining. The muslin is thin and loosely woven and this change made it possible to shirr my rayon. If this didn’t work, I was going to use the other method outlined in the pattern which uses elastic.

Overall, I think this is a great pattern to sew. It’s easy to fit and the instructions are excellent. Tammy has also made a YouTube sew along which is great if you’re a visual learner. I really liked the illustrations that she included with the pattern which are super clear. Now counting down to wearing this dress in the sunshine!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Eliza Trench Coat

Here in the Southern Hemisphere, the weather is cooling down. Although we don’t get the freezing temperatures that bring snow, it does get cold enough to need a jacket. I’ve really wanted to challenge myself to making more outer wear and gaining more tailoring skills, so I thought the Papercut Patterns Eliza Trench Coat had all the elements I wanted to try. It can be made into a long trench coat, but I feel that I would get more wear out of the short coat. It has two choices of pockets, the welt pocket and the patch pocket. Of course, I’m choosing the welt pockets because I’ve never sewn those before. It also has the cool feature of the storm flap and is fully lined. It also has the belt, but I don’t know if I’ll be worrying about using that.

Features of the Papercut Eliza Trench Coat

This pattern is for intermediate sewers, and I must admit that it did stretch my limits. Mainly, in the sewing of the welt pockets! I think it me two hours to sew one. The instructions were excellent and there were illustrations, but I would have loved a photographic tutorial. But like anything you learn the first time, it was much easier, faster and I didn’t make the same mistakes with the second pocket. Practise makes progress! I’ll try put my pictures here if anyone else is attempting the Eliza Trench.

Pocket bag. Make sure to mark wrong side

The shape of the coat reminds me of the Nova Coat. It has the same sleeve profile which is so comfortable to wear. I made the size 4 because my sizing fell between the size 4 and 5. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. I just remembered sizing down with the Nova Coat about 2 sizes, but I wouldn’t do that with the Eliza Coat. I think this feels very comfortable for me. I’ve styled it with a jumper for my photos just to test what the bulk would feel like, and I still have the degree of movement needed to be functional.

Fabric choice was easy! I was going for the classic camel coloured trench coat with a lining inspired by a certain brand you think of when thinking trench coats. Hint, it starts with B and ends with berry. The outer fabric is a beautiful soft drill that I found at Spotlight Stores. It has the slightest stretch to it but not too much. It hasn’t got the usual coarse feel of a drill so I’m so happy with it. I’ve lost my receipt so I can’t put the exact description here. The lining is a classic tartan suiting fabric. I chose it for lining because it has enough drape to move well. I think the choice for lining really makes a difference to the feel of a coat. Something stiff in this would just feel restrictive and may even change the way the coat sits.

I’m so happy with the pattern. I think I made a mistake with the tuck in the lining going the wrong way at the bottom, but it was the only bit in the instruction I couldn’t figure out. The rest of the instructions were superb. To clarify, I’m self-taught and there were no sew-along videos for this coat so I’m so proud and happy to have made this with only the instructions in front of me (they really were excellent). Very excited to add this to my handmade wardrobe!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Emma Top

Needle and Thread Patterns is new to me. I was fascinated by Mia’s minimalist but classic designs. It was the Emma Top that caught my eye and I was excitedly waiting for the release of the pattern when she reached out to see if I wanted to try a pattern. I was super excited and of course, I jumped on the chance to collaborate.

The pleated sleeves caught my eye. This is the special twist that she gives all her patterns. The simple silhouette with a special detail. I love the ¾ sleeves on this V-Neck, A-line top. The way that everything is finished so beautifully is something to enjoy in this pattern.

This pattern does not include seam allowance. It did stop me in my tracks at first because this is the first time I’ve come across this. I’ve read that designers do this to increase accuracy with sewing. It can also be a way to provide flexibility with the seam allowance to accommodate different fabric substrates. There were a few options for adding the seam allowance. If experienced, trace and cut straight onto the fabric. I felt that I needed some help judging where to cut. I think some people use a double tracing wheel or magnets that can be attached to the scissors. I looked in our local Spotlight Stores and couldn’t find what I needed so I decided to stick the pattern pieces onto butcher’s paper and then add in the seam allowances accordingly.

I made a wearable toile because I was worried about my method of adding the seam allowance. I had some leftover cotton fabric which have these raised spun threads through the fine lightweight fabric. The toile worked well but I knew that for my final version, I needed a sturdier woven to help hold the shape of the pleated sleeves. The toiles confirmed my size of 42 for my measurements of 38-inch (97cm) bust, 33-inch (84cm) waist and 40-inch (102cm) hips. I tried the pleats for the sleeve in the toile, but it didn’t hold the shape very well because the fabric had too much drape, so I ended up taking the pleats out which is an option for the pattern.

For my next version, I chose a midweight linen. I’m really happy with this choice! It really showcases the sleeve pleats. Everything about this top is pleasing! The construction order and instructions were excellent to follow. It’s concise but with enough extra detail to guide a confident beginner. The blouse has set-in sleeves which gives it a shapelier fit and is so comfortable when you’re moving your arms. It passes my dinosaur arm test.

Mia has mentioned in her posts about the Emma Top that it is also possible to use a sweater jersey or interlock fabric. I plan to try this out soon as our weather is cooling down fast. I think for a thicker fabric, I would want to size up one size but I’m not sure. It would be a stable knit, so I don’t think you’d need to account for the stretch in the fabric.

Needle & Thread patterns has been a delightful discovery. I’m hoping to try a few more patterns. I feel so lucky to have been provided the pattern to review but all opinions remain my own. I’m so impressed by the ethos of this company to provide high quality, modern and versatile patterns. The Emma Top has been a good introduction to this.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Full disclosure: Pattern was gifted but all opinions remain my own.

Bob Woven Pants

This has been one of those patterns circulating in the sewing community, so I’ve been curious to try it. I’m so happy that I did because I immediately feel like making another pair. The Style Arc Bob Woven Pants are a barrel shaped pair of casual pants with side seam pockets and elasticated waistband.

For my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I was going to sew the size 14. After a conversation with a sewing friend on Instagram, I decided to sew the size 12 on her advice. It’s very handy to have friends with the same measurements! It was lovely to be able to save time and fabric as I dove straight in without toiling.

The pattern is for woven fabric, so I went to my local Spotlight to have a look. With great luck, I found the linen-cotton blend on sale! I nabbed a bargain and perhaps a few other meters of fabric fell into my shopping cart. The grey slate cotton-linen is a medium weight perfect for the pants. I wanted something sturdy to try emphasising the barrel shape. I thought, if I’m trying the barrel shape, I really want to see what it looks like. Better to test out from the outset whether this style suits me or not.

There has been some chatter in the community about the pockets. There are some clever ways of extending the pockets, so they sit under the front waistband. This would prevent them from flapping backwards. I decided to sew it with the pockets as is and it’s been fine for me.

For most past, I followed the instructions as written. The only part that I decided to sew my way was in the waistband construction. The pattern advises constructing the waistband, along with the elastic separate from the pants then attach the two. I felt that my machine would cope better if I attached the waistband first. So, I attached the waistband without the elastic. I then sewed the waistband closed leaving a gap of 10cm so that the elastic could be inserted. Once this gap was closed off, I finished the waistband seam on the overlocker.

Fit Photos of the Style Arc Woven Bob Pants

This is my first try of the trend for barrel shaped pants and I can see why the design is such a hit. This is one of the most comfortable pants I’ve ever made. I love the way the voluminous legs taper down at the ankles. I read somewhere that it’s inspired by French workwear and riding pants. I’ll now be on the lookout for a barrel shaped jeans pattern. This is my first Style Arc patterns. I was nervous about my capacity to figure out the brief instructions, but I found the pattern instructions are more than adequate and the whole process was so enjoyable. I also love that Style Arc has bonus patterns included with each purchase. I have a few more patterns I’m keen to start now. In the meantime, I’ll be reaching for my Bob Pants as much as possible.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

x Em

Revel Topper

This Sew House Seven Revel Topper caught my eye for several reasons. I love the look of the boxy top with its various sleeve options, but I was also very keen to try sewing a yoke neckline and the shawl collar. Sew House Seven is one of the pattern makers I used to learn from when I started sewing because of the excellent instructions.

I made Version A first as a wearable toile and checked the fit. Version A is sleeveless, but the bodice is wide, so the armholes drop over the shoulders to look like capped sleeves. In this version, I used the same fabric to make the facing but chose to sew the facing to the inside. The sleeves have facings as well which are deep and sewn down.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust and 33-inch waist, I made the size 12. I based my sizing on my bust measurements. My waist sizing falls into size 14 but looking at the ease, I felt that the size 12 would fit my frame better. The topper length is cropped but can still be tucked into high-waisted pants or skirts.

The fabric I used for version A was a cotton gingham. It worked well and I like the outcome, but the fabric makes me feel like I’m wearing a scrub top. For the next top, I felt like I needed something with a looser weave, so I chose to use a lightweight linen. Unlike the first version, I decided to use a contrast fabric for the facings. Searching through my scrap pile, I found just enough of the Maai Design Joanna Ralph Silent Bloom print linen.

Version B has short sleeves attached and I chose to use the contrast fabric for the yoke and sleeve facings showing on the right side. I think the contrast also helped to highlight the shawl collar. The lightweight linen worked well, and this time doesn’t feel like I’m wearing a scrub top. This is my favourite version of the top.

The Revel Topper fits well into my closet. When I first started sewing, I would just choose anything that caught my eye. Now I try to choose items that fit in well and that can be paired with at least three other items in my closet. My plans this year are to plug a few holes in my wardrobe but to make sure that the fabric and style fits in.

The pattern is rated for a confident beginner which is accurate. There are some watch points which are also great skill builders. The first is the yoke neckline, second is the shawl collar. There is also the French seam when joining the back bodice to the front. It’s a little tricky when sewing around the shoulder and the collar. It was easier to do with the lightweight linen than the cotton which was a stiffer fabric. Sewing down the yoke to the right side also requires some care to make sure both sides are even and neat. It was good to resew the pattern and I would love to make it again. I’ll be looking for fabric with fluid drape to make version C. I learnt so much from this pattern.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Casey Pants

Sometimes people ask me why I sew when you can buy items for very little especially with the emergence of so many fast fashion online stores. I guess they see a pair of shorts, but they don’t see that when you sew, you can adjust that pair of shorts to fit comfortably. You can choose to insert the inseam pockets that are fixed to the front. They also don’t see the careful selection of fabric that you choose for texture, drape and weight. So, it’s probably true that it would be cheaper to buy a ready-made pair of shorts, but nothing replaces the satisfaction of making the shorts that fits the way you like and with the perfect fabric for it.

I’ve made two versions of the True Bias Casey Pants. The first was the long mid-rise pants which I made as a tester for the pattern. The second version is the high-rise shorts which I’ve sewn recently. I usually document my makes as I go but I didn’t have a chance to write the first version after the test because I was leaving for my trip to South Korea. I knew I would come back to sew the pattern anyway.

My first version has been worn as pyjama pants because the pattern is based on the silhouette of boxer shorts. The midrise sits a couple of inches below the natural waist. I used ½ inch gingham which were super soft. I used the size 12 for my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. No adjustments were made.

For my short’s version, I chose the high-rise version which falls at the natural waist. This time I used a Lyocell Denim which was leftover from the Avril Dress that I made. I had just under a meter remnant that I could use for the Casey shorts. I made the size 12 again but this time I had to add length to hit the high-rise waistline. I’m 167cm tall and the pattern is drafted for someone 165cm tall. With the 2cm difference, I had to add 1cm using the lengthening / shortening line included on the pattern. This second pair is made for wearing during the day and not as pyjamas, so I left off the slit in the side seam.

I fitted pockets to both patterns. Usually, I don’t enjoy using in-seam pockets because they flap to the back, but these ones are fixed to the front when you fold the elastic waistband down to secure it.

The instructions are always good with True Bias Patterns. They’re straightforward, logical and easy to follow with the illustrations provided. Good instructions go such a long way to increasing the enjoyment in sewing.

Speaking of enjoyment, this pattern was a great one to pick for a nice afternoon of sewing. It’s great getting into a big, new, complicated pattern but sometimes it’s nice to be able to finish a pattern in one sitting. From assembling to sewing, everything is smooth sailing. I know some seamstresses like to trace but I like the used the layer option and print the size I need.

Now that I’ve made the adjustments that I like in the pattern, I’m planning to sew a few more which is another reason why I sew. Fast fashion items are often one off which means that even if you find something you like once, there’s no guarantee that you’ll find the same item a second time. So happy that I can sew. Probably sounds a bit smug but it’s satisfying to have the ability to make something specially to fit me.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Etty Camisole

This is my first Tammy Handmade pattern. It is always great when a pattern maker provides a free pattern to try. This is a lovely camisole with a scallop neckline. The neckline is a great point of difference. The length of the camisole with thin straps makes for an elegant looking top.

I was so happy to match the pattern to a beautiful piece of fabric that I had received from Devonstone Fashion. It’s a Liberty Tana Lawn named Mrs Gardener. The print shows brightly detailed flowers on an off-white backdrop. There was a recent showcase by Regent Street Fabrics and Two Green Zebras in Brisbane and Melbourne showing some beautiful Liberty fabrics. So many beautiful prints. It looked like such an inspiring event with all the outfits showcased on the catwalk. I was gifted 600 cm of this fabric but with the 130cm wide width, it was easily enough for this Cami top.

My measurement of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist sits between the size 12 and 14. The finished garment shows a bit of ease in the waist, so I chose my size based on my bust size and made the size 12 without any modifications. It’s a little bit snug under the arm but feels like a good fit. The pattern is true to size. Next time I would reduce the seam allowance by a little.

The construction was very beginner friendly. The steps were logical and easy to follow. The facings are attached separately to the front bodice and back bodice. It was also an easy method for attaching the straps. The instructions and illustrations are comprehensive so I feel that someone with little experience could pick up this pattern and follow it easily.

The cotton lawn is a lightweight breezy fabric. It’s a great fabric for a beginner to sew with because it’s stable. It’s also such a comfortable fabric to wear for summer. The most challenging part of the pattern was sewing the scallop neckline. The instructions were great for this, and it was a good practise for sewing curved lines. I really enjoyed the process, and I’ve seen Tammy use some decorative stitching in her versions and would love to try this next time.

Overall, a great experience sewing this pattern. I think Tammy Handmade is a great indie pattern company that I’ll be returning to. This camisole has been a great quick project. I’m tempted to try sewing a few in a batch even though my previous experience sewing in batch has ended in disasters. I think with a little bit more experience under my belt, I might try again. I’ll explore sewing with different fabrics next time maybe with viscose or rayon. It’s nice to be dreaming of things to sew.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Calvin Wrap Dress

Having made the Calvin Top a couple of weeks ago, it was a quick job to bring it together for the dress. The True Bias Calvin comes as a top and a dress version. The pattern features exposed bias binding that becomes the ties of the dress. The dress is midi length with a generous wrap front. My favourite feature and what I bought the pattern for, is the adjustable straps.

The bonus of making the top as a wearable toile was being able to test out fabric choice as well. The linen worked really well for the top but once I had worn it, I decided I wanted a drapier fabric for my dress version. I’ve always loved the Atelier Brunette brand of fabric. I was so happy to find 3 meters of the Kaola Pecan Pie in Viscose from Maaidesign online fabric store. They stock such a huge range of beautiful fabric.

I made the size 12 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. Wrap dresses have the advantage of being adjustable so it’s easy to adjust. The pattern is interesting because the back panels have a slight curve to it which makes it skim the body in a flattering way.

I used the same fabric to make the bias binding. The exposed bias which become the straps and there is a fair amount. I was just mindful that I wanted to use my fabric with the least amount of waste, so I angled the binding just slightly off bias. I was very happy with the result, and I still have a small amount left for a future project.

This dress deserved special fabric because I was making it to wear to my daughter’s graduation ceremony. It just feels like yesterday that I was dropping her off at kindergarten, and it feels surreal that we are passing this milestone. The ceremony was held outdoors, and it was a hot and windy afternoon. Luckily, the wrap in the front was generous and there was no risk of wardrobe malfunction. I had also put in the optional snap to avoid any chance of gaping in the bodice, but it felt very secure anyway.

It felt so good to make and wear this dress. True Bias patterns are one of my most sewn patterns because they are reliable and truly elegant designs. The instructions and illustrations are excellent and I was able to sew this in one weekend. I love that now this dress will be a permanent reminder of this precious milestone for our family.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tie Dress No 2

When Sara asked for testers for the Sewing Therapy Tie Dress No 2, I immediately put my hand up because the Tie Dress has been one of my tried-and-true patterns for a while now. I just love how adjustable the ties are and it’s a dress that is always comfortable. This second version of the Tie Dress comes with a button placket or a wrap front. There is also an option for short sleeves or long sleeves. I decided to test the wrap front, short sleeve version but I will probably be going back to sew all the versions.

Testing is always breakneck speed because Sara is an incredibly hard-working creative. She has produced a vast catalogue of patterns, each one beautifully drafted and detailed and each one come with written instructions and sew along videos accompanying them. She produces everything to a superb quality. It’s the same with her testing, she responds to questions and feedback so quickly that I think, did she have time to sleep yet? I hope so! Being on the other side of the world, I was always amazed at how promptly she could reply. The thorough testing means that the pattern comes together perfectly for the person sewing and the construction is logical and easy to follow.

My version is the Size 12 without any modifications for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. I really like how the wrap sits and there is no risk of it gaping. The dress is midi length or short. I was testing length and I left mine slightly longer than the midi it was drafted for.

The Tie Dress No 2 is drafted for woven fabric. I was excited to find some midweight linen-cotton which was perfect for the pattern. I did also put together another dress for the test which I will finish soon where I used up a mix of gingham fabric. I think any stable woven fabric is great for this dress.

Sara has done it again with this dress pattern. I see myself sewing this pattern again with the longer sleeves when the weather starts to cool down. I love how this version of short sleeves are ruffled which is a cute feature. I’m loving how comfortable this dress is to wear as well. Having the adjustable ties means that there will never be a day where this dress is too tight or big to wear. I think that’s why I keep returning to make the tie dress. It’s been great to be sewing and testing again especially in a supportive and creative environment.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em