Dresses – Page 2 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Milenda Dress featuring Johanna Ralph collection from MaaiDesign

Maaidesign is launching a new fabric brand called Johanna Ralph* and I was super excited to receive a preview of the Silent Bloom print. It’s a beautiful abstract graphic married with elegance. I chose to preview the linen, but the print comes in other substrates. When this luxurious linen arrived, quite a few patterns sprang to mind. I settled on the Milenda Dress because I thought that the linen would feature the linen beautifully. Linen is great for items needing structure.

I tried making this dress about five years ago. I had just started sewing and I loved the look of the dress. Even though the pattern advises that it’s for intermediate level sewist, I jumped in and tried to sew it. I used a double gauze and instantly started making mistakes like not adding the pattern pieces to make the right length, I confused the pleat construction, I didn’t attach the bias binding or the pockets the right way. However, despite all that, I was super proud, and the Milenda Dress has ended up being a dress I’ve reached for repeatedly.

The Milenda is a classic shift dress that can be pulled over the head. The design these features pleats in the front and back which release into a skirt. These pleats are a clever feature and really help to shape the dress in a flattering way.

When this beautiful 100% linen fabric arrived from Maaidesign, I knew I had to make the Milenda Dress again. I started by giving it a cold wash and then a cool dry in my dryer. I then changed my machine needle to a universal 90/12 gage needle. Linen does wrinkle so a good press is essential before sewing. I don’t mind the wrinkles once it’s sewn but it’s good to iron it to make sure the pattern pieces remain accurate.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, I made the size M. No modifications were needed. I was so happy that I could follow the instructions to the tee! I guess I am making progress with my sewing. On a little side note, the Tessuti instructions are excellent, but the pictures are photographed not illustrated so it’s easier to follow the instruction on the computer. Everything is logical and the construction is excellent.

Don’t you love a dress with pockets? I loved how these pockets were constructed because they sit to the front. Also, the pockets are at the perfect level and are properly deep.

When I photographed the dress, I realised that the fabric is slightly gauzy and sheer. It’s still perfectly modest without needing lining. The linen is very lightweight; from memory it’s under 5 oz or 150 gsm and had a generous width of 150cm. I can’t wait to wear the dress when the weather starts to warm up. Linen is just so comfortable in summer. Looking at the Johanna Ralph collection, I think it’s going to be a hit with those bold, abstract prints.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Full Disclosure: The fabric was provided for preview and Instagram content. No blog post was required but I share everything on my blog and love documenting all my makes. All opinions remain my own.

Roma Dress

Do you start with your pattern and then buy the fabric or is it the other way around? I’m sure you’re like me where it’s a mix of both. In this case, I had bought this silky looking rayon but had no plans for it. It has beautiful drape, and I loved the colour, so I’ve had 3 meters of it sitting in my stash. Then I saw the Roma dress. I’ve noticed the recent trend for sailor’s collars so when Sewing Therapy released this pattern, I wanted to try it and thought it was a good match for this rayon.

Now, when you look at this fabric, both sides look almost identical, but one side is slightly shinier than the other. I’ve read that this is from the satin weave that can be used which leaves one side shiny and the other matte. What I have learnt from using this is to mark the wrong side at the start. I didn’t which was made more difficult when I decided to tackle a few parts of the project at night. I should have used my KATM sweary label for this one when I had to unpick pieces newly sewn with the wrong side up!

None of that swearing came from using the pattern which was made very easy by Sara’s sew along video. They are well captioned and her written instructions, although brief, are also very good for an experienced seamstress. Basically, the pattern comes as a dress or top with a choice of a big or small sailor’s collar and drop sleeves with cuffs or can be sewn with elastic instead of the cuffs.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist, 40-inch hips, I made the size 12 (L) which had a good amount of ease so even though my waist measurements would put me into a size 14, there was no need to grade. I’ve sewn a few Sewing Therapy patterns now and because her patterns tend to include that ease, I felt comfortable skipping a toile. Usually, if a sewing pattern maker is new to me, I would toile with the blouse option. I do find her patterns are true to size for me.

For me, the most difficult point of this pattern was not the collar as she indicated in her video. I found those instructions to be superb. It involved both the facing and the cuffs. The facing had to be sewn down once the collar was attached. My fabric was super slippery and so I had to deviate a bit to make it work for my fabric. I decided not to stitch the front neckline facing down because it would have spoilt the seamless look in the front. I did attach the back neckline facing but I’m still unhappy with it because it’s not symmetrical. I had basted around the back facing then followed with the top stitch, but the fabric still shifted. I will be unpicking and trying again soon.

The cuffs were also tricky for me. I misunderstood the markings for the cuffs and initially overlapped them at the wrong spot. Luckily, I had only attached one when I tried it on to check. I felt the cuff was tight and when I rewatched the tutorial, I realised my mistake. I’m sure that has not happened to anyone else. The other challenge for me was placing the cuff onto the sleeve. I’m still not sure if I have the opening of the cuff in the right spot. I think I would have liked a notch somewhere to help me line it up. Then, when everything was attached and finished, I looked at the overlap in the cuffs which were now both facing the same way instead of opposites. Small detail, I know, but I will wait to see if it still bothers me down the track.

Despite these difficulties, I love my Roma Dress!

Lastly, I wanted to mention that I sewed this over a period of a couple of weeks which is not routine for me. I wanted to try spacing my sewing out a little bit more. Not sure if I was successful because I found myself making more mistakes. I tend to space things out like printing the pattern, sticking together the pattern, toiling, cutting fabric, markings but when it comes to sewing, I usually like to set aside one continuous session. I found that putting a project down, then having to find my spot again was probably not as productive and enjoyable as I thought it would be. I think I’ll have a mix of projects in the future, I do still have my Nova Coat that I have been slow sewing in the background using denim scraps and recycled jeans. So, it’s true to say that this “Roma” was not built in a day.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Quinn Dress

It’s been so exciting to collaborate* with True Bias this year. I have been sewing their patterns for a long time and I was thrilled to be invited to test for them. Especially since this is a dress that I would have rushed to put in my shopping cart. The Quinn dress is based on the design of the vest but taken to 4 lengths. There is the cropped length, the mid-hip length, a short dress and the midi dress. I chose to sew the midi dress. The pattern features a princess seam, V-neck, button placket, and has the vest tie in the back which lets you cinch in a little at the waist.

I chose to sew the Size 12 for my measurement of 38-inch Full Bust, 33-inch Waist, 40-inch Hips. An upper bust measurement is included in the pattern which is important for a princess seam. There is also mention of height in the pattern. I did not need to make any adjustments. I’m 5’6” in height and liked where the dress ended on me. The pattern was true to size for me.

The feature that I’ve come to know True Bias Patterns for is their neat finishing. The dress was not lined but it used a combination of bias binding and facings. This included the hem of the dress which means that everything is perfectly clean and neat.

The pattern is for woven fabrics. I used a maroon-coloured linen-cotton. It was quite a lightweight linen which is so comfortable in summer and the hotter months. I would love to sew one in denim and make the stitching a feature of the design. Again, with the built-in facings and finishing instructions, this would be the perfect dress for some featured topstitching.

There is a vest tie on the back panels of the dress. I managed to find a vest sliding buckle, unfortunately not very pretty. I was hoping to get a different colour but with my next make, I would try a few more stores. There is also online but they always sell these things by bulk.

Testing went very smoothly, and I really enjoyed the whole process. I really enjoy the way True Bias set out their instructions which include very good illustrations. I feel like this is a short review because all the pieces fit. I did a quick toile with my marron linen in my usual way of basting all the main pieces together to check the fit. I’ve been toiling this way for a while now and find that I can save on cutting into “toiling fabric”. This comes with a quick disclaimer that I am very familiar with True Bias patterns and have worked out my sizing from past makes. This is probably why it’s good to sew a few patterns from the same pattern drafter.

Once the last button was sewn, I excitedly tried it out for a long lunch with my husband. It’s very comfortable to wear and there were no issues sitting for a lovely lunch. It’s also a way to repay my husband for all his help with the photography!

On a more personal note, I’ve really enjoyed participating in pattern tests this year. I decided that since my kids are transitioning into independent young adults, I would use my spare time to indulge in my sewing this year. Happy to still be needed but also grateful to regain a bit more time!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Pattern was gifted and paid for testing with no obligation to post. All opinions remain my own.

Arcadia Dress

It’s always exciting to get onto the Sew to Grow testing team. Lindsey designs sewing patterns that are stylish and easy to wear for daily life. Among her many talents, she is also a sewing teacher so her patterns are always logically constructed and made to fit beautifully. I’ve been sewing her patterns from the start of my sewing journey and have learnt so much from them.

The Arcadia Dress is a versatile pattern that comes as a top and a dress. It can be sewn as a sleeveless or long-sleeved tiered dress with a front tie on a lined split V bodice. I made two versions, a sleeveless short version and a long-sleeved maxi version. I love the relaxed vibe of the pattern and it’s such a versatile pattern.

I sometimes find tiered dresses to be very oversized and worry about swimming in volumes of fabric, but the Arcadia Dress is sized to fit in a flattering way. My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips fit into the size 12 and I found the pattern true to size. No modifications were made except for my maxi version. To achieve the maxi length, I doubled the width of the bottom tier.

The sleeveless dress used about 2.5 meters of fabric and my maxi version required about 4 meters of fabric. Luckily, there was a good sale on rayon fabric at Spotlight! I decided on rayon because the pattern is made for woven fabrics, and I thought the patterns would be showcased best by something lightweight and billowy. I also generally find rayon to be so comfortable to wear in the Australian climate. I think my sleeveless version will get a lot of wear in summer, but my maxi dress will get worn all year round.

Maxi version and did I mention it has pockets!

There are so many positives of the pattern. I’m often pulling up straps with my sloping shoulders so I’m always trying to modify straps to sit on my shoulders. Well, I think I’ve found the perfect strap design because I haven’t had to worry about that with my Arcadia Dress. My straps on the sleeveless version stay put because the straps join onto the neckline with a long length of bias binding, and they seem to sit perfectly without any chance or length for them to slip off the shoulder.

Short, sleeveless version and yes, pockets!

Another nice feature is the v-opening with the ties which eliminates need for zip or button instalments. It’s a great dress to slip over the head and go. The bodice is lined too which gives the dress a beautiful quality finish. It’s these little details that make sewing your own clothes so worthwhile.

I’ve loved seeing the other tester versions emerge and there’s been a few tops that have been made. I’d love to come back to this pattern in the future to make one. This will be added to my TNT (tried and true) patterns. Lindsey was such a pleasure to test for. It was nice help her bring this pattern to life.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Mia Dress

I’m so happy to be starting on my winter wardrobe. I wonder if anyone else finds themselves at the start of winter thinking that they should have added a few winter items in their summer sewing months. That’s probably me every year. I must admit that I probably sew more summer than winter items but that’s because our summers are longer. When Casey from Patternscout Studios reached out to ask if I wanted to test her latest design, I was so excited because it’s a winter dress. An item that is lacking in my wardrobe.

The Patternscout Mia Dress is a turtleneck knit fabric dress. It has raglan sleeves and a fit and flare high-low skirt which is a midi length. The pattern test went smoothly except I told Casey that my big head needed a slightly larger neck opening which she has adjusted. I made the size 12 graded to a 14 at the waist and hips and I used the Cup B pattern. This is why I’ve sewn so many Patternscout patterns and am happy to test for her. The sizing is spot on each time, and I love that she includes the different cup size options. It’s also great that printing the pattern is made so easy because you have a different PDF for each cup size option. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I think I could have just sewn a straight 12 being a knit fabric garment but I feel more comfortable when garments are not so “clingy”.

I did make some adjustments for my own liking after I had submitted my toile and was sewing my “real” dress. I shortened my bodice 1/2 inch and shortened my skirt by 1-inch as the dress is for someone slightly taller. I also shortened my sleeves by 3-inches. These adjustments are usual for me so not to do with the fit.

The fabric is a rayon-spandex from Spotlight Stores. There wasn’t a really big range to choose from at my local store. I would love to find a dark coloured plain rib knit like the one that Casey has modelled. Although, because our winters are mild, I might not get as much wear of my dress if the knit fabric is too thick. It is recommended for two-way and four-way medium weight knits with at least 50% horizontal stretch.

In other news, my second-hand Bernina that I scored on Facebook marketplace had to be retired. She has served me well but there is something wrong with the tension dials. When I purchased the machine, I was told about this problem, but I took the risk and bought it anyway. It was such a bargain price that I thought even if I had to pay for a service, it’s a worthy machine. So, that was five years ago, and this is the first time it’s shown some serious signs of failure. I will be repairing it at some stage. In the interim, there happened to be a great sale on overlockers at my local Spotlight store, so I decided on the Elna. It seems to have a few good reviews. I’ll wait a few months before posting my review.

Many sewists have said that they sew their knit garments fully on their overlockers. The Mia Dress pattern instructions assume this, but it can also be fully sewn on your machine and the instructions accommodate this. Armed with new overlocker, I decided to try this. Usually, I use both. The thing that confused me was the seam allowance. When you sew on your machine, you know where the allowance falls. On the overlocker, I’ve read that you account for the loss of 1/8 inch, a scant amount of loss which the blade removes when you are sewing with the overlocker. I think this is included within the 3/8-inch seam allowance. I hope, because that’s what I did. I did use my sewing machine with the twin needle to finish my sleeve hems and skirt hem.

Overall, if you’re like me and new to sewing knits, this would be a great dress to try out. It took me half a day to put together from cutting the fabric to finish. That’s quite a quick sew in my book. I would grade it as an intermediate pattern. In terms of fabric consumption, it didn’t take as much fabric as I thought it might. The chart is quite accurate assuming there is no pattern matching needed. I used 2 meters.

I’m looking forward to getting some wear out of this and I think I’ll be looking for some other similar patterns to try in knit fabric. I should also mention that Patternscout instructions are always great and accompanied by illustrations but if you want videos, she is has quite a huge catalog of YouTube videos.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing,

X Em

Tie Dress Featuring Longan Craft Linen Chinoiserie Fabric.

Like an artist choosing a palette of paint colours, the right pattern must be paired with the right fabric. So, when this beautiful Linen Chinoiserie fabric was kindly sent to me from Longan Craft, I had to make a choice of what to sew with this fine and lightweight linen-tencel fabric.

Initially, I had thought of a different dress on my summer make list. However, when the fabric arrived, it was drapier and finer than I anticipated. It reminds me of raw silk which was the material of my wedding dress, and it has the lustre and sheen of silk. There is also a subtle print of koi and flowers which I wanted to highlight so I didn’t want a pattern that would break that up with gathers or too many pattern pieces that break up the beautiful print. Searching through my files, I realised that the Sewing Therapy Tie Dress was the pattern that fit the bill! I was on the testing team for this dress and have made two which I constantly reach for, especially the short-sleeved version.

As usual, I started by washing my fabric. Even though it looks delicate, I found that it was okay to wash it in my washing machine on the cold cycle with a detergent for delicate fabric (one without enzymes). I then air dried it which is the normal way I would treat it once the dress is sewn. There was no loss of colour or changes to the fabric which was a relief.

The next step was to test a small piece of fabric on my machine and the overlocker so that I could decide on the type of seam finishes and the needle I needed. I did change my machine needle to a 70/10 gage needle which is great for finer fabric. Testing the fabric with the overlocker also worked out without any changes. I’m still learning about overlocker settings on my second-hand Bernina. Being second-hand, it didn’t come with a manual but luckily, I could find the manual online.

The Tie Dress is an elegant design with versatility in mind. The ties can be played around with, so the wearer can tie it in multiple ways to adjust for a loose or snug fit, be tied to the front and back or to the sides. It can also be worn as a v-neckline or round neckline. I’ve never known a pattern like this. I guess that’s why it has been worn so much. There’s never a time when I have avoided wearing it due to changes in my tummy size. Talking about sizing, I made the size 12 with my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips without any modifications.

Sewing the dress is made easy by the instructions which are included with the pattern. It is also helpful that Sara has included a sew-along video on her YouTube channel called Sewing Therapy. It’s my go-to channel for sewing inspiration and a great resource for the sewing community.

I’m so grateful to be given the opportunity to showcase this delightful fabric from Longan Craft. I learnt a new word from my husband. When he saw the dress, he said that the fabric is diaphanous. According to google dictionary, it’s an adjective (especially of fabric) light, delicate, and translucent. It’s a great description of this fabric. The fabric composition is 60% linen and 40% Tencel but has the feel and lustre of silk. It comes in 59-inch width which is a lovely wide 150cm fabric. It’s beautifully lightweight at 92 gsm which converts to 2.71 oz. Longan Craft is a well-established online fabric store since 2020. The delivery of the fabric was prompt and I’m so impressed by the quality of the fabric. It has been a pleasure to sew their linen chinoiserie fabric, but they have a wide range of fabrics which cater for sewists and crafters from novice to professional level.

Diaphanous quality of the Longan Craft Linen Fabric

For my lovely readers who have read all the way to the end, Longan Craft have provided a discount code which you’re welcome to use! It’s not an affiliate link and doesn’t add to the cost of your shopping cart so don’t worry. The code is emsewhappy which will give you a 15% discount. Happy shopping!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Disclosure: Fabric was supplied for review with no obligations to write a blog post. All opinions remain my own.

Marigold Dress

I’ve been a long admirer and follower of Stitchmaiden Patterns but never brave enough to attempt a pattern because they look so technically hard. When Stitchmaiden reached out to me, I took it as a sign that it was time to stretch out of my comfort zone and I was so pleasantly surprised with the outcome.

Firstly, the pattern I chose was the Marigold Dress. Each pattern draws inspiration from a period in history. The Marigold is from the Romantic Academia Collection. It is a pattern that keeps on giving because of the multitude of combinations possible with just a switch of one or two features. There are three versions which are suggested for the seamstress. The basic concept is a square neckline with princess seams and a fitted waist. I chose the suggested Version A which has a slim fitted skirt, but I chose the butterfly sleeves from Version C, and I left off the ruffled hem. There is also a belt that is sewn in which I chose to keep.

Marigold Dress featuring fitted waist, square neckline with gathered bodice and butterfly sleeves.

With this many options, I thought that printing and putting together the pattern was going to be time consuming and difficult but there is a comprehensive table, and it made the whole process quick and painless. There are two ways to print the pattern, one is without the seam allowance and the other is with the seam allowance added. I’m more used to having my seam allowance included so that is the one I chose. This is where it got interesting for me … I mistook the sewing line for the cutting line. I had printed the size 42 and size 44 because I fell between those two sizes and needed to grade the pattern. In the end, I decided to only cut the size 44 and grade from there but as mentioned, I cut the sewing line! To make matters worse, I cut into my “good” fabric thinking I had enough seam allowance and ease with the larger size to then “fit” it once I had cut the fabric pieces.

The dress has an invisible zip closure, so I did the usual basting stitches on my side seam and basted my zip. Imagine my panic when I couldn’t zip up the dress and there was no amount of ease or seam allowance that could help! It really puzzled me for the afternoon then I went back to the pattern and thought I’d start again, and this time make a better toile. When I reprinted the pattern, I realised my mistake which was actually a relief! It was me, not the pattern.

Lesson learnt, I should never assume and always make a toile.

I chose the size 42 and 44 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I graded the bodice from the 42 to the 44 waist and hips. The dress is a tailored fit with moderate ease, and I felt that this worked well for me. When I make the dress again, I might adjust the princess seams as well.

Initially, I was going to use a beautifully printed linen but because of my mistake, that fabric will now be made into a dress for my daughter. Instead, I had this green crepe the chine which my husband bought me that I’ve been keeping for a special make. He bought me 5 meters of this fabric of which I’ve used about 3.5 meters. The crepe the chine is drapey and light which is beautiful to wear. It highlights the skirt, the gathered front and butterfly sleeves nicely. I actually think this fabric was a better match in the end.

The pattern comes with some of the most extensively detailed instructions and illustrations which are great to learn from, but they also provide a summarised set of instructions for the more experienced sewist. I used the detailed instructions and appreciated the two pages of Basic Workmanship which is great for those looking to extend their sewing repertoire.

Stitchmaiden Patterns have a vintage vibe and draw inspiration from history but they really are timeless classics. This will be a dress that transcends passing trends and I’ll be wearing it time and time again. It’s a pattern that can be changed easily with so many mix and match options, so it is a “TNT” (tried and true) pattern for me. Oh! And another thing, please now refer to me as Stitchmaiden Emily.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

* This pattern was provided for a review with no obligation for a blog post.

Ritual Dress

Featuring Fabric from the Devonstone Fashion Summer Abroad Collection by Lindsey Rae

So excited to feature the latest fabric collection from the immensely talented Lindsey Rae @sewtogrow. It’s currently available for wholesale through Devonstone Fashion. It was hard to pick which design I wanted but I settled on the Cornwall Oceanside Print in a luxe linen cotton blend. It is fifty-five percent linen and forty-five percent cotton, 180-185 gsm and 145cm wide. The pattern is reminiscent of wildflower fields. I love the riot of colour in this collection. Best of all, it will also be available in a variety of substrates like rayon, poplin, and jersey to name a few.

The pattern that immediately came to mind when I received the Cornwall Oceanside Print Linen was the Swimstyle Ritual Dress. I had bought this pattern last year but was waiting for the perfect fabric to match it. It’s basically a shirt dress but with the additional features of the drawstring waist casing in a maxi length. I haven’t had the opportunity to sew many collars and cuffs, so this was another consideration in my choice. The instructions for these are superb for entry level sewists.

Wearing it with waist cinched in and with it loose

As with any other sew, I washed the linen cotton on a cold cycle and popped it on the medium setting in the dryer. There was no noticeable shrinkage and no fading of the dye. I like how the addition of the cotton to the linen helps to reduce wrinkling and cuts down the time it takes to iron. I do appreciate that relaxed vibe that wrinkling in linen can give but I prefer to start wrinkle free and earn the wrinkles along the way.

Of course, I also checked my needle. I left it on the universal 90/14 gage needle that I had been using. I matched the fabric with the Gutermann CA 02776 thread. I’m not sure the colour of the print shows up in the photos, but the print consists of shadows of mauve flora on a background of green.

The Ritual Dress has quite a lot of ease in the pattern sizing, so I chose my usual Size L for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I did not make any modifications. My height is 167cm. I felt the pattern was true to size and fitted comfortably. Perhaps the sleeves could have been shortened slightly but I wanted to have the full-length sleeve and a properly maxi dress. I guess I’m great at sewing summer outfits, but I really need to make items that will see me through the cooler weather. I think this dress fits the bill nicely.

Ritual Dress in Cornwall Print Linen Cotton

The collar and cuff instructions were great if you lack experience in this area. It’s really made for novice level and can highly recommend it. The Summer Abroad linen cotton has been such a good quality fabric to sew with. It still has that slight stiffness that linen starts with so it feels a little bit course on the skin but that will soften with a few washes. I know that’s sometimes a concern with linen, but it really doesn’t take long for it to season to a soft and pliable garment.

Hopefully, the Summer Abroad collection will be available for purchase soon from your favourite fabric store! Currently, it’s available for wholesale through Devonstone Fashion. Keep your eyes out for it from the Sew To Grow newsletter.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Darla Jumpsuit

Featuring Fibers to Fabric Hand-blocked Cambric Cotton

It was so exciting to receive this beautiful hand-blocked cambric cotton from Fibers to Fabric for a review. The first thing I had to find out was, what was cambric cotton? It’s sometimes known as batiste and it’s a beautifully sheer fabric that’s great for summer. It reminds me of the handkerchiefs my grandmother used to hand embroider. It’s a natural fabric and usually made from either linen or in this case, cotton. It’s popular because it can be dyed easily so it’s perfect for the Fibers to Fabric hand-block.

My first challenge was narrowing down what I was going to make with it. The fabric width is 42” (107 cm) and I had 3 meters. The design of the hand-block was non-directional. I narrowed it down to the True Bias Darla Jumpsuit because I wanted to maximise the use of every square inch of this fabric. With a bit of creative cutting and use of a white muslin for the liner, I managed to cut the maxi with classic bodice version of the Darla. Gloriously, this included the pockets!

To prepare the fabric, I overlocked both cut ends of the fabric before soaking and washing it in cold water. Once out of the wash, I air-dried it then finished with a warm iron. The benefit of cambric cotton over plain cotton is the tighter weave which makes it more resilient with frequent laundering. It’s stands up better to being washed without compromise to the lightness of the fabric.

While my fabric was drying, I gathered my supplies for my Darla Jumpsuit. There are four versions of this pattern. It can actually be sewn as a dress and comes as a maxi or mini. There are two bodice options. One is a tie back or the classic with the invisible zip. I decided on the classic, so I needed an invisible zip. When I was at Spotlight, I also bought the invisible zipper foot. The pattern calls for lining which can be from the same fabric. I used a white muslin and interfacing which was already in my stash. To prepare my machine, I changed my needle to a new size 10/70 needle which is great for lightweight fabrics.

Now, I’m not brave when it comes to cutting straight into “good” fabric with a new pattern. I toiled the Darla bodice with a remnant thin cotton and had to make some adjustments. I recommend this especially since the Darla has a fitted bodice. For my measurements of 35” HB:37.5” FB:33” W:40”H, I made the size 12 and I did have to adjust the bust. It says in the pattern that it is drafted for a C Cup so my measurements would put me between the B Cup and C Cup. The structure of the bust is made from two darts, one from the side (underarm) and one from bottom (under bust). Without going into too much of the math, the dart can be adjusted to be narrower for a smaller cup or wider for a fuller cup. I adjusted the side seam to compensate for the adjustment and I only adjusted the underarm dart. The main message is to toile, and I always adjust on my body and then measure. I’m terrible at doing it the proper way which would be more accurate. I find the Darla pattern true to size.

This hand stamped floral block print was a dream to work with. It’s very stable to sew and easy to handle. I used an overlocker to finish the seams which worked fine. Some finer fabric would need French seams, but the cambric cotton tolerated the overlocking. True Bias instructions and order of construction is excellent. It was a joy to bring together this pattern and the fabric. I just need a bit of sunshine and heat to wear it. Is it okay to book a tropical getaway so you can wear an outfit? Asking for a friend.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Full disclosure: Fabric was gifted for a review but all opinions remain my own.

Ella Dress

Pattern Scout has done it again! This is the newly released pattern from Pattern Scout, and it hits the mark of a timeless classic. The Ella is a sleeveless shift dress which can be sewn on the bias, so it just skims the curves. It’s a classic with the boatneck midi dress. If you’re looking for a pattern with some skill building features, there are instructions for French seams, sewing on the bias and installing the invisible zip.

I was lucky enough to get onto the testing team. I really like testing for Casey and have sewn many of her patterns. The instructions are always comprehensive and easy to follow. The illustrations are great, and she also has a YouTube Channel which is another great reference. I’m sure she will be providing some great sew along videos for the Ella Dress. I also like the sizing especially the inclusion of cup sizes.

This pattern is drafted for woven fabric. It would suit anything light to medium weight with fluid drape. I used a rayon from East Coast Textiles. I had discovered East Coast Textiles through some sewing friends and really love their rayon. Luckily, a new batch had arrived when I was doing this pattern test. I had three meters available which was perfect for the pattern to be cut on the bias. The pattern can also be sewn straight grain which can be a fabric saver.

My measurements of 35HB:37FB: 33W:40H fits the size 12, B-cup. The pattern is drafted for an average height 5’9” (175cm). I’m slightly shorter but decided not to shorten the length with this make because I was testing the piece. There are always good instructions about fit and how to modify the pattern included with Pattern Scout Patterns. Without shortening the length, the dress does look more maxi than midi on me. I have decided to leave it as a maxi because I would wear it more.

The dress is neatly finished off with French seams and the neckline and armholes have facings. I feel like this is a great pattern for practicing some of those advanced sewing skills. I also liked the instructions for installing the invisible zip. I still haven’t bought myself an invisible zipper foot, but I think I’m used to it now. I use a normal zipper foot, but I make sure that I iron open the zip tape to sew as close as possible to the zipper teeth.

It’s nice to have a wardrobe staple like the Ella Dress. I feel that this silhouette is a classic and doesn’t date. It’s something I will return to sew again and again. I can’t wait to wear this in summer. Maybe I’ll make one that will be suitable for winter layering and add lining.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em