Tops – Em Sew Happy Blog

Rectangle Top

When I bought this pattern, I didn’t expect to be making such a playful, elegant blouse just from two pieces of rectangles. I’ve been using Sewing Therapy patterns for a while now and have come to expect reliable, beautiful patterns from Sara who is the creative behind Sewing Therapy Patterns. This blouse really exceeded all expectations. I’ve made the View A, but I can see myself making View B and C as well soon.

Best of all, Sara drafted this top to use up remnants. For this top, I used some remnant polka dotted rayon. It was something I bought from East Coast Textiles which is sadly no longer trading. I chose the rayon because of the fluid drape of the fabric which suits the shirring. I like how Sara has a table setting out detailed instructions on how to choose the right fabric. I would have loved this when I first started sewing because fabric choice only improves with experience and I use to agonise over it, sadly sometimes making a mistake.

For the Size L, I used less than 1 meter of fabric. I chose the L from my bust measurement of 38 inches. It’s a very beginner friendly pattern for sizing because there is such a range and ease in the pattern. I really love how the shape is given by stitching and shirring. Speaking of shirring, I had almost forgotten how to do it. Sara does explain it very well in the pattern, but I find that my machine is always the exception when it comes to these things. I tested on a scrap piece of fabric, but it didn’t work. I found that for my machine, I had to wind the shirring elastic onto the bobbin with a bit of tension, and I had to turn up my machine tension. I also followed the instructions in increasing my stitch length. The main thing is to test before starting on the real piece.

Sewing Therapy Instructions always come with YouTube videos which are wonderfully high quality. This time, Sara has included beautiful hand drawn illustrations with her written instructions which are so useful too. I watch Sewing Therapy videos for general relaxation anyway. It’s the perfect Sunday afternoon reset activity.

I have some remnant linen which I will be using up with my next rectangle blouse. This project was a quick sew which is great when time or energy is short. It’s also a good project for those last minute makes when you have an event you need something for. Overall, a fun few hours of sewing!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Paloma Top

So excited to get into the testing pool for the newly released Swimstyle Patterns Paloma Top. I just loved the unique style and design immediately. The top features two ties that are sewn down at the front and are threaded through the back. These ties can be left loose, or they can be used to cinch in under the bust and waist to feature a peplum. It also features a yoke and gathering with biased binding to finish the neckline and arm openings.

This pattern is designed for woven fabric. I used a medium weight cotton that I extracted from an old doona cover. It was nice how the cotton gave it some structure but in my next version, I would use a lighter weight fabric. I have thrifted some old Saris and would been keen to experiment with that. The Saris are made from georgette fabric so it would be super lightweight and drapey. This version is my tester version so it’s not perfect but I was so excited to share it.

My sizing is always consistent with Swimstyle Patterns. My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips sat within the Size L so that is what I tested. It was pretty much spot on. There was one adjustment that all the testers agreed on, and it was quickly adjusted and remedied. Apart from that, I didn’t find any other adjustments were needed.

There was some suggestion of making a dress version of this top which I had thought of when I was making it. I think this would make such a pretty dress! I have matched this top with quite a few items already in my closet, so I know that I’ll be getting a lot of wear out of it.

I’ve been so lucky to test quite a few patterns this year. It’s an enjoyable process to help in a small way, bring a pattern to life. Testing for Swimstyle was enjoyable and stress free. I liked the testing period, and the Facebook group was helpful and communication was orderly. Looking forward to making the Paloma Top again.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Viola Vest

Some patterns I sew are real skill builders and the Viola Vest is one of these. I have a few things to work out with this pattern, and I considered not sharing until I made a version that I was one hundred percent happy with, but this blog has always been a journal for my sewing whether successful or not. I decided that I should jot a few notes down and come back to it.

Swimstyle Patterns has been my go-to for elegant, elevated core wardrobe items. The Viola Vest is drafted for knit fabric and has a wide V-Neck with angled, overlapped side seams. It has an oversized relaxed fit. I bought this for that relaxed oversized look.

My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips fit into the L size range so that was the pattern size that I cut. Generally, this was great. I like how the pattern also included how to choose the right fabric with what stretch and recovery was needed. I found a ribbed knit that was suitable, but I didn’t consider how bulky the ribbed knit would get. I do have a very basic home sewing machine which might have also affected my ability to deal with the bulkiness of my fabric.

The part I thought I would struggle with was the V-Neck. It actually worked very well and was easy with the excellent instructions provided. I felt that I skilled up by sewing this neckline. The part that I couldn’t work with was the angled and overlapped side seam. The side seams are neatly folded and finished before being angled to sew together about 4 layers. The folded seams provided a great finish to the vest. However, with 4 layers, I had problems getting the angle and the bulk made it hard to stitch the seam as instructed. In the end, I had to sew it with a straight stitch.

Another thing is the hem which is sewn and prepared all in one before joining the side seams. The bottom is a bit wavy so I must have pulled the fabric a bit when sewing. I’m a bit of a perfectionist and I considered unpicking and retaking the photos but I decided to leave it and try again with another fabric. I need to give myself more grace when it comes to my sewing.

So, I’m not sure if the armhole sits too low because of my modified stitching or whether this was part of the design. I need to find slightly thinner fabric to make it again but I’m not sure if I should size down. This is why I like stalking a pattern on Instagram because it’s handy to see items on other people (regardless of size).

I would have always worn this vest with a shirt or tank top underneath anyway, so I still feel this is a good addition to my closet. I’ll be trying to find another knit for this vest because I love the look so much.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Vera Knit Top

I’ve been trying to be more adventurous with knit fabric. I came across this floral stretch crepe jersey fabric from The Fabric Store Online which has a beautifully fine texture with good drape. I bought a 125cm x 150cm wide piece which I thought would be lovely for the Vera Knit Top pattern from Forget Me Not patterns. I’ve been meaning to sew this lovely top featuring bishop sleeves using the long cuff option for a while and finding the perfect fabric has prompted me again. One of the suggested fabrics was viscose knit which is why I thought the crepe jersey would be a good match.

Floral Stretch Crepe Jersey (White Coffee)

Forget Me Not has generously offered this as a free pattern to the sewing community and it includes all the detailed instructions that come with her other patterns. There are no short-cuts just because it’s a free pattern. It is a great way to sample their incredible patterns.

The blouse is based around a B-cup bust. My measurements of 38-inch bust, and 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip sits between a size 38 and 40. The pattern is nested which make it super easy to print. I decided to print both sizes and graded from the size 38 to 40 and added one inch to the length from the bottom of the blouse. The top features a V-neck and it’s fitted in the bust with more ease around the waist.

Knit fabric is always a bit tricky for me. I’m still gaining experience with handling the stretchy qualities of knit fabric. The instructions are excellent with tips all the way on how to handle the fabric, which needle to use and what stitch to sew with. It really takes all the guess work out which is so helpful. Another quality of the fabric I should mention is that there is more stretch one way than the other which has been fine for this blouse as the pattern is quite versatile. I would love to make a winter version with merino wool or something similar.

I’m excited to add this top to my Spring Capsule Wardrobe. I’m hoping to sew a skirt as well to wear with this, but I think it will match quite a few items I have. I know I’m categorising my sewn items into different capsules but obviously any item can be worn for any season. With my love of neutrals and browns, everything could fit into an Autumnal theme. I’ve just been organising my sewing this way to get a better cross section of items into my handmade wardrobe.

I’m feeling more confident with knit fabric coming away from this. I want to practise with this pattern a few more times so I’ll be on the lookout for more fabric suitable for this pattern.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Spill the Tea Tie Neck Top

There has been a lot of chatter about Pattern Emporium patterns in my sewing circle, so I’ve been keen to try them out. When the Spill the Tea blouse was released, I loved the design and thought it would fit into my Spring Capsule Wardrobe. I’ve been thinking more about how to make my handmade wardrobe more cohesive, so I’ve been playing around with collages on Pinterest. I’ve picked some highlight colours that I’d like to feature in the capsule.

The Spill the Tea Top is a tie neck top with two back options, two sleeve options and two length options. I chose to make the gathered back with a yoke, the cap sleeves and tall length. I wanted the option of leaving the top out for a more casual look. It’s so impressive at the number of options available and best of all, printing it was made very logical and easy. I really liked that it wasn’t necessary to print every page, only the relevant ones which was a good paper saver.

Yoke construction on Spill the Tea Blouse

The pattern is made for woven fabric and is quite versatile. I had a piece of georgette fabric in my stash that I bought a while ago but was a bit afraid of sewing. I thought it was a good match for the pattern because of the high drape. Excitingly, there was enough of it for the top which required about two meters. I was making the size 12 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I love the fine quality of georgette fabric, but it does add some difficulty to sewing. I tested the fabric on the overlocker and decided to use French seams because the fabric frays very easily.

Apart from the seams, I had to solve the issue of the yoke and how to finish it. I decided it would be best to cut two so that the yoke could line itself. I’ve tried to describe what I did in the steps below because I deviated from the instructions.

1. Finish the FRONT BODICE as instructed

I also finished the sleeve seams with French seams, but I think it would have been thick enough for the overlocker. French seams do give a satisfyingly neat finish. The other tips I learnt when sewing with georgette fabric is to reduce the stitch length and changed the needle to a 70/10 gage. It was also handy to use the rotator cutter for the curves.

The Pattern Emporium instructions were very detailed. It is made for reading on a screen because the illustrations are photos. The bonus is that everything is clear with contrast fabric. The instruction booklet was like a mini magazine, and I love the inclusion of all the different people modelling the blouse. I like printing my instructions but at 50 pages, I limited my printing to the sewing instructions only. I found myself deferring to the photographs when I came to the attachment of the ties. The construction was very enjoyable with the precise pattern pieces and instructions.

Overall, it was easy to see why my sewing friends fully endorse Pattern Emporium patterns. It’s been a fantastic sewing experience and a good one to get my sewjo going again. I’ll hope to share more soon about my sewing plans for my handmade Spring Capsule Wardrobe.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Selwyn Top Featuring Maai Design Fabric

Maai Design have done it again. They have released their Artist Collection Drop 2 featuring surface artist and illustrator Myriam Van Neste famous for her bold and playful designs. I was one of the lucky to receive a 120cm sample of the “Pressed Florals” in a rayon lawn fabric for a pre-release review.

I’ve never sewn with rayon lawn before but what a discovery. It’s beautifully soft with a lot of drape. The colour of the print really pops and there was no fading, or colour runs when I washed my fabric in cold water. I did line-dry my fabric because that would be the normal way that I like to dry my clothes, so I didn’t experience any noticeable shrinkage of the fabric.

It didn’t take me long to decide to sew the Cashmerette Selwyn Top. It’s a lovely pin-tuck shirt with button placket and a ruffle that drapes over the bias lined arm openings. The top can be sewn without the ruffle, but I love how the ruffle softens the silhouette and adds a bit of feminine detail into the blouse. So, in order to add it, I had to do a bit of pattern piece Jenga. Luckily, the width of the fabric was a generous 150cm! It was a win because the fabric requirement chart recommended 1.8m for View A with fabric 140cm width. I was very pleased with my pattern piece Jenga.

Often with rayon, I find it’s best to use a rotary cutter for curves and to mark the notches before you move the fabric. I think it’s quite difficult to mark those notches accurately once it’s been moved. Also, it can help to lightly spray the fabric with starch. I skipped this step because I’m quite used to handling rayon, but I did make sure to staystitch and pinned excessively. Before sewing, I changed my machine needle to a 70/10-gauge needle.

I made the same size as I did the first time, I sewed the Selwyn Top which is the size 10 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. It’s very comfortable. I used some scrap rayon that I had to make the sleeve facings because I wasn’t able to squeeze making my own out of what fabric I had remaining.

I love the silky softness and the movement that the rayon lawn allows. I’m so glad that I managed to get these ruffles on my top.

Maai Design meticulously selects collections of high-quality fabric. I was very scared of buying fabric online when I first started sewing but Maai Design is one of the stores that I have repeatedly trusted and return to. I’m grateful to have found it early in my sewing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Full disclosure: I was provided this sample for a preview but no blog post was required and all opinions remain my own.

Clover Blouse

As you know, I have been sewing Stitchmaiden Patterns this year as a collaborator. I have been working through their extensive library of patterns which are all inspired by history and it’s been so enjoyable. The patterns have a high level of detail and I’m finding them to be quite technical in execution.

April is #SewAprilBlouse sewing challenge month where you can sew a blouse to enter. It’s a fun challenge hosted yearly by Cloth Edit and various Co-Hosts. This year, it’s co-hosted by Sewn On The Tyne. I had chosen the Clover Top as my next collaborator project with Stitchmaiden and thought it would double perfectly as an entry for the challenge.

The Clover Top by definition could be called a shirt pattern, but I think, what turns it into a blouse are the details like the little tie, the feminine cut of the shirt which includes bust darts, the bishop sleeves and the shaping continues to the back of the shirt with the centre pleat. Stitchmaiden always include many variations which can be mix and matched to create something new every time you sew the pattern. I decided to make a simple Version A as my first iteration of the pattern. I decided to go ahead and make the blouse without a toile because we’re at the end of the month and the challenge ends!

I felt that my past makes have shown me that the patterns are true to size for me so with my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I chose to make the size 42. I love that the patterns are nested, and you can choose to just print the size that you need. I also really like it that you have the option to include the seam allowance and don’t have to remember to add it when cutting the fabric. I remembered from the first time to check which was the line I had to follow for that!

So, a shirt or blouse seems like a simple item to sew until you realise that it can be the more technical item. It’s like cooking. The simpler the look of the dish, the harder it is to get perfectly correct. I felt that it was like that with this blouse. The instructions and the illustrations are beautifully written and explains everything so well, but I did find myself making mistakes. I think it’s a pattern that gets better the more times you sew it. Also, I sewed this in a day when I really should have spaced out each stage.

Ok, what was hard? I found the collar construction difficult because my fabric is slippery rayon, and the pattern demands accurate clipping and sewing. My fabric kept slipping and I found myself seam ripping the collar twice because it had slipped to leave an unacceptably big gap. In the end, I hand basted before machine stitching which seemed to do the trick. The next mistake was the button placket. I think I kept confusing View A and View B in my brain. View A needed one placket to be left longer at the top so that it could be folded over the ties to make a cute bow. I only realised at the end what I should have done, so to solve the problem, I made a buttonhole in the tie, and it still works but not as neatly as intended. I think I would wear the blouse unbuttoned anyway. Lastly, I did a minor change from sleeve cuffs to bias bound cuffs. I think on a practical level, I like them better, but I need to fiddle around with the size of them as they are a bit big.

As I said, it’s the first iteration and I think the first of any project tends to wear the most mistakes. I have used a drapey rayon fabric which is lovely and soft to wear but I’d like to try a cotton or something sturdier especially if I want to make the version with the pintucks.

Stitchmaiden patterns have been such a surprise to sew. I feel that these patterns are exceptional and have had so much research and work put into them. They are very technical and hence something that will advance your skill level. The Clover Blouse is beautifully formal and from the Wonderland Collection. I love how even though it’s form fitting, it’s so comfortable to wear (no dinosaur arms when you’re out to dinner). Another beautiful design from Stitchmaiden.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Stitchmaiden Em

Full Disclosure: Pattern was gifted for collaboration with no requirement to blog. No affiliate link. All opinions remain my own.

A Round-up of Tees

I know tee-shirts aren’t the most exciting item in the wardrobe, but they are probably the hardest working item. When I first started making tees, I realised that there are so many designs and there’s also such a variety of knits to make them with. I’ve also come to realise that there is a difference when a good quality knit fabric is used. It makes it so much more enjoyable if the fabric is great quality and fun to look at.

In this post, I thought I would review some of the tees that I’ve made, starting with my new Swimstyle Velma Top in the Rou Cou Cou Retro Pears which I bought from Maai Design. I have sewn the Velma Tee, but this is the V-Neck version. I’ve made the Size L for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. The cotton jersey that I used is velvety soft but with a little bit of weight and structure which was easy to handle and a perfect match for this tee.

As mentioned above, I have made the round neck version of the Velma Top. I love that it has the scoop neck, and I was so happy with how the neckline sits. Instruction for both round and V-Neckline are excellent. I also like how the sleeves drop from the bodice. I loved it so much that I made three of them. I experimented with three different types of knit. I found that I liked a knit with some structure and less stretch for this like the cotton jersey, a brushed knit and a rayon scuba.

Another well-loved Tee pattern is the Cashmerette Brattle Top. I was very nervous when I was asked to sew this for Cashmerette Club. I ended up making three of these. I love the unique twist in the front. It’s a true elevated basic. I made the size 10 for my measurements. Cashmerette has a fit calculator which gives you a great estimate of the sizing. For this pattern, I used a patterned rayon spandex jersey for one and a bamboo jersey for another two. These were lightweight and had a lot of drape that suited the twist in the front.

The Carlyle Tee is another unique Cashmerette Tee. It has a beautiful square neckline with puff sleeves. I used a cotton jersey for this, but it doesn’t have enough stretch, and I haven’t reached for it as much because I find it too stiff. I will probably return to this pattern with a softer and drapier knit fabric like a rayon spandex knit.

I haven’t written about the Stellan Tee on my blog which is a free PDF pattern from French Navy. It has a classic tee with sleeves. I don’t think I made the correct size, and I wish that I had sized up. I had bought some beautiful cotton jersey fabric from Megan Nielsen when she still had a store. It’s still wearable but again, I had pictured an oversized boxy tee but although it sits with all the right proportions, it’s not the comfortable floppy tee that I wanted. Unfortunately, I haven’t taken any photos but another tee that I love is the Patternscout Comfi Tee. I’ve only made one and the neckline is floppy but it’s one that I have reached for many times over. It’s a fitted tee with a round neck. I need to go back and make another one.

Lastly, the Megan Nielsen Jarrah Sweater was the very first knit pattern that I tried to sew. I know that technically it’s not a tee, but I learnt a lot by making these and it’s a tried and true pattern that I keep going back to every year. I think the practise helped me master a few important skills like attaching the cuffs and neckline. Learning how to control the stretch and how to use the overlocker.

So, the humble tee is one of the most used and valued items in my wardrobe. Now that I’ve used “good” fabric, I’ll be looking for more so that I can keep searching and making this most comfortable item in my wardrobe.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Daisy Top

As I said in my Instagram Post, this pattern is tiny but mighty. The Stitchmaiden Daisy Top has multiple versions in one top. I find it to be a good skill building pattern. I’ve been wanting to experiment with attaching trims and more decorative details in my sewing and this pattern has a great section on ideas of show to add decorations. There is also a length variation, so I chose the longer version.

Once I got going with my top, I knew I wanted to make another one straight away. But before starting on the final versions, I used the remnant white slub to make a toile. I initially cut the size 44 but found that it was too roomy at the bust, and the princess seam didn’t sit in the right position. I decided to make the size 42 but didn’t have to grade to the 44 waist because the pattern has a 2cm side seam which makes the pattern so easily adjustable.

The top I had envisioned with this pattern was a softer, breezy top with lace detailing. I was happy to find a rayon with a print called Daisy for the top. I matched it with a cotton lace trim which I would insert instead of the ruffles in Version C of the pattern. I’ve never inserted lace before. Initially, I inserted it with the lace facing inwards, so I had to get out the seam ripper. That’s when I decided to film it. I find documenting the process really helps me to learn.

In the end, the top came together quite easily. As I said, this pattern is drafted, and the construction is organised so that everything can come apart quickly for adjustments. I only had to modify the side seam with the 2 cm seam allowance at the top of the bodice and sewing down to a 1cm seam allowance at the waist. The strap comes with a 5 cm seam allowance which fitted well. I did move the straps inwards of the princess seams because I have slightly sloping shoulders. This worked well except I found that I couldn’t wear a bra with straps because they weren’t covered with the straps in that position.

Once that was finished, I went back to the white slub toile. I removed all the basting stitches and cut down the pieces to the size 42. This time, I thought that the stiffer structure of the fabric was better for Version D which features pin tucks. I stayed with the straight neckline rather than a sweetheart neckline. I love how the neckline rises slightly in the front.

Again, this pattern was enjoyable to make. In the second pattern, I decided to add the facing pieces as one after I had sewn together the side seams. I also attached my straps before attaching the facing. Only be aware that doing the construction this way makes it harder to readjust at a later stage.

The Daisy Top is a lovely addition to my growing handmade wardrobe. It’s pretty but also practical. I think I’ll get a lot of wear out of them. I’m grateful to be collaborating with Stitchmaiden as they gifted me with this pattern. Even though gifted, no blog post was required but I felt it was worth sharing and all opinions remain my own.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Jackie Top

Have you ever come across a pattern that is made for both woven and knit fabric? The Dutch Pattern Studio released the Jackie Top which is made for both types of fabric. This is quite a rare phenomenon. I have seen people hack woven fabric patterns sometimes to suit knit fabric and vice versa. It’s also a pattern that has a few variations so it can be a summer top or a dress.

I had some leftover fabric from making the pattern test I did for the Maker Haus Nadine skirt and so I thought that rather than sticking it back into the cupboard and letting it sit there to oblivion, I would instead use it to make the Jackie Top. I picked the top with the ruffled sleeve openings because I thought it would make quite a cute matching set with the Nadine Skirt. Let’s see if I find an occasion where I can wear it as a set.

So, because my version is made with woven fabric, I had to install an invisible zip into the side seam. I don’t mind installing zips, but I thought that if I added a back seam and a keyhole opening, I might be able to forgo a zip which would make it easy to slip the top over the head. I did this by adding a one-centimetre seam when cutting the back bodice rather than cutting the piece on the fold. Then when I went to sew up the blouse, I stopped the sewn seam at the level of the sleeves and left the seam above that open. I then extended the bias binding for the neckline so that I could have a tie closure.

It was a bit of an experiment because this make was a wearable toile as well as a bit of a hack. I basted the side seams together after I had created the back keyhole closure. At this stage, I had also decided to leave off the fisheye darts in the back bodice. It was possible to pass the top over my head, but I found it a bit snug getting in and out because the waist actually pulls in and fits quite close. There wasn’t enough ease in it to forgo the zip. So, once I had established that I wasn’t going to work, I then installed the invisible zip the left side seam. I left the keyhole opening because it looks like I would have needed to make a broad back adjustment. I also left the fisheye darts but now looking at the how the fabric bunches, I would include these in my next version of this.

I felt the sizing was quite true to size. My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist, 40-inch hips fitted between size 42 and 44. The thing that confused me was that the measurements were given as a range. I printed and cut the 42 because the 44 was quite a jump in sizing on the printed pattern. I now wish that I had graded between the two sizes. I needed to grade to the 44 at the waist. I wasn’t keen because the pattern uses French darts rather than the usual bust dart’s folded construction, it is open and starts lower, so I wasn’t quite sure how to get around that. I was intrigued by the construction of the French darts, and I feel that they give a beautifully fitted look.

In the end, I’m quite pleased with the final result. I feel that the pattern probably leant towards a woven construction. I’m not quite sure about doing the French darts and fisheye darts on a supple knit. It would probably work for a lightweight knit but then there would be the stretch of the fabric to consider. There wasn’t a stretch ruler or guidance on the type of knit you would use so I’m not sure what to advise. I should also mention that although a confident beginner could work out the instructions, it does not come with illustrations, and I couldn’t find any sew along tutorials. The instructions are perfectly good for someone with some sewing experience under their belt.

This is a comfortable and pretty pattern that I would be happy to return to. Some of my favourite features are the French darts and adding the ruffles to the sleeve openings with the neat finish of the binding. My neckline binding stands up a bit because I had to use the binding differently to add a tie closure but it’s something I’m happy to live with!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em