Tops – Page 2 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Jackie Top

Have you ever come across a pattern that is made for both woven and knit fabric? The Dutch Pattern Studio released the Jackie Top which is made for both types of fabric. This is quite a rare phenomenon. I have seen people hack woven fabric patterns sometimes to suit knit fabric and vice versa. It’s also a pattern that has a few variations so it can be a summer top or a dress.

I had some leftover fabric from making the pattern test I did for the Maker Haus Nadine skirt and so I thought that rather than sticking it back into the cupboard and letting it sit there to oblivion, I would instead use it to make the Jackie Top. I picked the top with the ruffled sleeve openings because I thought it would make quite a cute matching set with the Nadine Skirt. Let’s see if I find an occasion where I can wear it as a set.

So, because my version is made with woven fabric, I had to install an invisible zip into the side seam. I don’t mind installing zips, but I thought that if I added a back seam and a keyhole opening, I might be able to forgo a zip which would make it easy to slip the top over the head. I did this by adding a one-centimetre seam when cutting the back bodice rather than cutting the piece on the fold. Then when I went to sew up the blouse, I stopped the sewn seam at the level of the sleeves and left the seam above that open. I then extended the bias binding for the neckline so that I could have a tie closure.

It was a bit of an experiment because this make was a wearable toile as well as a bit of a hack. I basted the side seams together after I had created the back keyhole closure. At this stage, I had also decided to leave off the fisheye darts in the back bodice. It was possible to pass the top over my head, but I found it a bit snug getting in and out because the waist actually pulls in and fits quite close. There wasn’t enough ease in it to forgo the zip. So, once I had established that I wasn’t going to work, I then installed the invisible zip the left side seam. I left the keyhole opening because it looks like I would have needed to make a broad back adjustment. I also left the fisheye darts but now looking at the how the fabric bunches, I would include these in my next version of this.

I felt the sizing was quite true to size. My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist, 40-inch hips fitted between size 42 and 44. The thing that confused me was that the measurements were given as a range. I printed and cut the 42 because the 44 was quite a jump in sizing on the printed pattern. I now wish that I had graded between the two sizes. I needed to grade to the 44 at the waist. I wasn’t keen because the pattern uses French darts rather than the usual bust dart’s folded construction, it is open and starts lower, so I wasn’t quite sure how to get around that. I was intrigued by the construction of the French darts, and I feel that they give a beautifully fitted look.

In the end, I’m quite pleased with the final result. I feel that the pattern probably leant towards a woven construction. I’m not quite sure about doing the French darts and fisheye darts on a supple knit. It would probably work for a lightweight knit but then there would be the stretch of the fabric to consider. There wasn’t a stretch ruler or guidance on the type of knit you would use so I’m not sure what to advise. I should also mention that although a confident beginner could work out the instructions, it does not come with illustrations, and I couldn’t find any sew along tutorials. The instructions are perfectly good for someone with some sewing experience under their belt.

This is a comfortable and pretty pattern that I would be happy to return to. Some of my favourite features are the French darts and adding the ruffles to the sleeve openings with the neat finish of the binding. My neckline binding stands up a bit because I had to use the binding differently to add a tie closure but it’s something I’m happy to live with!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Valentine Ruffle Top

This is the latest pattern from Peppermint Magazine in collaboration with their sewing partner Spoonflower. The pattern is a romantic, ruffle blouse. It can be worn on or off the shoulder. We used to call this a “peasant blouse” in the 80s but I’m not sure if that term is still used. There’s no buttonholes or zips. It’s a pull over your head blouse with the elastic all around the top of the top. The pattern is offered with a subscription to the magazine or downloadable from the website with a pay-what-you-can option.

The pattern is drafted for woven fabric. I decided to use two remnant pieces from my stash and combined a broderie anglaise with a cotton slub which were both in white. I was pretty happy with the outcome but there is quite a lot of volume in the bodice. In fact, I was quite worried when I was making the top that I had printed the wrong size. Next time, I would choose an even thinner and drapier fabric like rayon, viscose or georgette.

My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, fitted the size F. The most important measurement is the bust measurement as there is a lot of ease with the waist size and the hip measurement isn’t really relevant. I increased the elastic length from 73.4cm to 100cm because I found that the original length would not allow me to wear the blouse off the shoulder. This is all included in the pattern instructions.

So, did I need to worry about the fit of the blouse? Not really! Once the elastic goes in, the blouse magically shrinks to the right size. As a compulsive overthinker, I find it difficult to trust the process. Sewing has been good for me and has taught me to be better at having a go. I also need to take more breaks in my sewing. I think I reached that stage of the elastic casing, and the illustrations were not making any sense to me. It was a good place to stop and everything made perfect sense when I returned to it the next day.

I’m really happy with how it’s turned out. I had a peasant blouse when I was in Grade 6. I wore that blouse everywhere. Now I get to recreate it with this pattern! It’s a great pattern for a beginner and the instructions are good to follow. I’ve styled with my Vanessa Hansen Carrie Skirt and the ELOH patterns Sorrento Shorts. It’s an easy piece to style. I wonder if I could hack it into a playsuit?

This is my official last pattern for 2024! I am looking forward to some down time with family. I’m excited to make some plans for 2025 but I’ll share those in a separate blog post. Thanks so much if you’ve been following my sewing journey.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Frankie Tankie

Featuring Fabric from the Maaidesign Artist Collection

I’ve always wanted to come back to sew the Vanessa Hansen Frankie Tankie and with summer coming around it was perfect timing when Maaidesign sent me a preview sample from their Artist Collection. The Maaidesign Artist Collection features three talented designers; Jessica Neilsen, Jennifer Bouron and RouCouCou. The collection features these beautiful designs in three premium fabric bases. They include super smooth cotton lawn, soft cotton jersey and drapey viscose twill. There are no pre-launch orders available so the best way to make sure that you don’t miss out is to subscribe to the Maaidesign newsletter! Maaidesign have set their launch date for the 5th of December but it is best to keep an eye out with a subscription to their newsletter.

My little piece is called Messy flowers by Jennifer Bouron in a super smooth cotton lawn. It is beautifully lightweight and luxuriously smooth to feel. Maaidesign cotton lawn feels very silky and drapey. It’s woven at a very high thread count giving it that luxurious quality. This lightweight fabric is perfect for summer blouses and dresses.

As usual, I started my sew with preparing the fabric. I do this by washing the fabric on a cold cycle , air drying and finishing with an iron because cotton lawn is one hundred percent cotton. There was no shrinkage or loss of colour in the fabric which is what I would expect of good quality fabric. I then prepared my machine by swapping to a 70/10 gage needle on my machine which I feel suits the lightweight fabric (80gsm) and the finer needle prevents snagging the finer fabric.

The Frankie Tankie can be sewn as a double-sided blouse or with a facing. I’ve chosen the facing option. I used a white cotton muslin for the facing. I had about one meter of the super smooth cotton lawn. It is quite wide in width at 150cm, so it was sufficient for the Frankie Tankie. My measurements of 38-inch bust, and 33-inch waist fell into the size 12 but the pattern does run a little big so I could have also comfortably fitted into the size 10. The top is a cropped length, but I did lengthen the top by 2cm because I wanted to have the choice of tucking it in or wearing it out.

Vanessa Hansen Frankie Tankie worn with True Bias Mave Skirt

Maaike and the Maaidesign team have really curated the best quality fabric which is great when you’re buying online. I feel that it’s easy to trust that you’re going to get the best for your sewing projects. So excited for this launch of the Maaidesign Artist Collection! Messy Flowers by Jennifer Bouron is a beautiful bold abstract print. She is a designer that is known for her beautiful bold prints and illustrations, and I’ve been a great admirer for a long time. I’m so happy that Maaidesign have made it easy for Sewists to find these beautifully designed fabrics in one place. A blog post was not a requirement for receiving this fabric but I really wanted to share!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Faux Collar Shirt

Sara Kim from Sewing Therapy Patterns has released another fantastic pattern! It’s the Faux Collar Oversized Button-Down Shirt or Dress. I was one of the testers for the pattern and chose to test the Crop Shirt version. There’s always a big rush to get on her testing team so I was grateful to be chosen.

This pattern features the faux collar which attaches only to the front of the shirt. It is comfortably oversized without sacrificing style. The cropped version stops at the natural waist which is perfect for pairing with my high waisted skirts or pants. It is also a button down with an inverted pleat at the back which gives a slight flared shape. This pattern is feature packed and this is only one of the versions!

As with any pattern test, there are some adjustments made along the way. I enjoyed the pattern as it was, so I made the test version twice. I made the size 12 without any modifications for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips.

My first version was made using this colourful cotton batiste fabric which was beautifully sheer and lightweight.

Everything went smoothly with the test and the pattern instructions were great. Sara always includes videos at some stage during the test. These are usually abridged versions, but we watch and help test those as well. I had finished my test in time and was happy to send off my fit and styled photos. So, it was a shock to me to receive a message from Sara asking me if I might have accidentally sewn my sleeves upside down! I immediately ran off to check my photos and sure enough, they are flared so I had in fact attached them upside down. Sara was very gracious, and we both had a giggle. She immediately went to include markings on the sleeve pattern to help the 1% of sewers like me. This is why she is so good to test for!

I decided to sew the pattern again with the sleeves as intended by the pattern. This time I used a plain sage coloured linen-lyocell fabric. It’s slightly heavier than the batiste I used but drapier. Lyocell is beautifully soft, lightweight, absorbent and a bit more wrinkle resistant that pure linen. My choice was mainly influenced by the fluid drape of this fabric. Again, I made the Crop Faux Collar Shirt in the size 12 without any modifications, this time attaching the sleeves correctly! In fact, the sleeves can be interchanged with other Sewing Therapy patterns like the Tie Dress or the Infit Pattern.

It feels great to be testing again. I really enjoyed the process and was so excited to share the fantastic new pattern from Sewing Therapy.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Billow Sleeve Knit

It’s taken me awhile to sit and write the review of the Swimstyle Billow Sleeve Knit* because I was tempted to start sewing another one straight away. However, the weather is warming up, so I’ll give it a break before making another version. I really admire the very organised sewists that plan their sewing according to the seasons. I can’t seem to keep up and it ends up frustrating me, so I don’t even try!

The sleeves are what drew me to this pattern. I decided on the cropped version with the regular neckline. There is also a longer version which I think would suit a lighter knit. I managed to score this dusky rose ribbed knit from my local fabric store. It is the perfect match for this pattern. It’s very soft and cozy to wear.

As with my other Swimstyle makes, I chose to sew the size L for my measurements of 38-inch bust and 33-inch waist. The sizing has been impressively consistent, so I didn’t bother with a toile. This saves me so much in fabric. It’s great to have a pattern that is so reliable.

Knit fabric has been a challenge that I wanted to try and master this year. I had some issues with my hem. It’s always the smallest things that give the biggest, unexpected challenge in a project. I had to reach out to the sewing community online and as usual, everyone was so generous with their advice. The first time I tried to sew my hem, it became wavy and looked awful.

The tips that were given to me included:

Use a ball point needle and use a zig zag stitch (2 Length: 2.5 Width), which I did.
I found the fabric pieces slipped a bit so I’m hoping to invest in a walking foot next time.
Someone suggested that I stabilise the hems and shoulder seams with clear elastic or knit interfacing. I think I’ve seen something on the True Bias Website which might help.
Another tip I learnt from someone was that if the serger is stretching the fabric out, you can turn the differential feed higher to avoid that (to avoid that wavy hem).

To resolve the issue, I unpicked my hem and resewed it with a twin needle. It needed a bit of steam and a press to regain its shape.

So glad that I’m part of a generous community and it’s made it so much easier for me to progress my sewing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Gifted as part of the Swimstyle Ambassador Program but all opinions remain my own.

Aveiro Shirt

Lovely Nasrin from Needle Eye Patterns sent me the Aveiro Shirt* for a review and I’m so glad she did. The Aveiro Shirt is a button up, sleeveless shirt with a ruffle that wraps around the collar and halfway down the placket. The ruffle details give this top a beautiful feminine look especially when embroidery details are added to it. I was thrilled to learn how to add a scalloped edge to the ruffle. I was also impressed with the detailed finishing instructions which makes the blouse neat on the inside as well as the outside.

The top is suitable for woven fabric. I’ve made two versions of this top. My first was a wearable toile with a Swiss-dot, lightweight cotton. My “good” version of the top was made with a patterned linen which is still lightweight but has medium drape with more of a structured feel to the fabric. Both were appropriate for the pattern, but I feel that the linen will need more wearing in and washes to take on the shape of the top. The shoulder yokes have gathers which still sit away from the body. I know from experience that linen will soften, and it will sit better after that.

My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist sat between the size 10 and size 12. Looking at the amount of ease in the pattern, I decided that the size 10 would be fine without grading. I did toile the pattern and it felt like a comfortable fit. I find that the pattern is true to size.

Instructions for the pattern were fantastic. It’s uniquely written from the point of view of a seamstress without assuming background knowledge of the person using the pattern. I found out from the Needle Eye Patterns website that Nasrin is not only a designer but a very experienced sewing teacher which explains why the instructions are written in a very clear and non-ambiguous manner. At no point did I have to stop to look up a technique or instruction. In addition to the written instructions that were paired with great illustrations, there is also a YouTube video sew along. With all these resources, this pattern is suitable for someone who is a beginner to an expert.

One part that I enjoyed the most but also the part I sewed wrongly in the first toiled version was the ruffles. It doesn’t state in the pattern which side (right or wrong) of the fabric to cut on and it’s not possible to tell on the video with the fabric being used. So, initially, I cut from the good side of the fabric, and it meant that my longer side of the ruffle ended up on the left side of the blouse. Women’s shirts button from right to left, that is, buttonholes on the right and buttons on the left. So, on my toiled top, the buttonholes are on the left with the ruffles and the buttons on the right. It still works but it was something I had to pay attention to in the linen version. This time, I cut the pattern pieces from the wrong side of the fabric, and it worked out fine. This mistake was not a reflection on the pattern but just me forgetting which way women’s tops button up. Who decided this in the first place anyway?

The finishes on the top are so neat. Almost all the seams are French seamed. Bias binding finished the sleeve opening. I used a serger for the hem of the shirt and then sewed and turned the bottom corner of the placket. It’s a very satisfying sew and I learnt a few new things. Overall, a happy outcome. I’ll be finishing my toiled version and sharing it soon. I’m thrilled with my Aveiro Shirt and can’t stop admiring the scalloped edge on my ruffle!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Pattern was gifted for a review but all opinions remain my own.

Andi Set Top

So, have you ever made something thinking it might not exactly be your style and it ends up being something you absolutely love? This is the Andi Top from the Swimstyle Andi set. I was curious about the design, which is what made me apply to be a Swimstyle Ambassador in the first place. It has a certain style and flair that is so unique and when you see the drafting, you’ll know what I mean.

My version of the Andi Top has these billowy long sleeves that are attached to a bodice with a deep V and these ties that can be adjusted. I have quite a modest amount of tummy showing but the main idea is that it gives shape to the bust area without needing darts. It’s a very flattering top. I’m positively happy about the ruching created by these ties and the channels in the front.

For my measurements of 35-inch high bust, 38-inch full bust and 33-inch waist, I’ve made the Size L. It’s a great fit but it’s quite cropped so next time, I would lengthen by an inch. For this top, I sewed a narrow hem or a cheat’s rolled hem by sewing a straight stitch ¼ inch from the bottom of the hem and then pressing the hem up twice.

If you’re like me and can’t work a loop turner for all the money in the world, you could use some bias binding to make the tie for the blouse. It really saved my sanity. I know everyone has their special tool or technique, but it really stresses me out when I have to make a narrow rouleau. I simply folded the long edge to the middle and then folded over again in half and edge sewed the tie.

The Andi Top is made for woven fabric. My fabric is a sheer lightweight textured cotton. I had this on my Make Nine 2024 list where I wanted to use up nine pieces of fabric from my stash. I thought it was a perfect pairing because it’s very easy to gather this fabric. I also love the subtle texture woven into the fabric. The top probably appears quite white, but it is more of a soft beige.

I will definitely be sewing the matching skirt to this Andi Set. It’s been such an enjoyable sew. I noticed that Swimstyle Patterns have some unique features like the tabs that make it so easy and accurate to match up the pieces. I was grateful for this because my fabric did not really have a right side or a wrong side, so these tabs made it easy to tell where the pieces needed to be attached. The comprehensive illustrations helped there as well!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tallulah Top

Last week, I received the very exciting news that I was part of the Swimstyle Patterns Ambassador Program! For my first pattern, I thought I would get onto sewing some resort wear for my upcoming holiday. The cutest pairing popped into my mind with the Tallulah Tie Top and the Tamarama Pants, the latter being part of its own set. I’m focussing this review on the Tallulah Top and will save the Tamarama for its own review.

The Tallulah Top is a boxy shaped top with a deep tie. It can be worn with the tie in the back or in the front. It has grown on sleeves, and it is finished with biased binding which can be ready made or there’s very detailed instructions on how to make your own. This time, I’ve chosen to save time and fabric by using ready-made.

I was quite nervous cutting into my fabric because I’ve not sewn Swimstyle Patterns before, so I was wondering about the accuracy of sizing. There was no need to worry as it was spot on for me. For my measurements of 35-inch-high bust, 38-inch full bust and 33-inch waist, the closest fit was the size L according to the sizing chart. I feel very comfortable with the fit. I decided that I’m more comfortable with the tie in the back and it falls in the perfect position to cover my bra strap.

Fabric choice is something I’m still learning about, so I was really happy that Swimstyle Patterns include an extensive list of specific suggestions. The pattern is made for woven fabrics, and it suits something lightweight and with fluid drape. I had a stash of rayon fabrics from East Coast Textiles which I had bought in anticipation of sewing something for the humid weather I’ll be travelling to. I decided it would be fun to use the Banana Leaves in Green.

The instructions printed with the PDF pattern, and I was worried that they would be too brief for me because there weren’t many pages. However, the patterns instructions are well set out with excellent illustrations that accompany the instructions in a clear and logical way. There were also photographic instructions that I could access which are a great additional reference. The pattern pieces were marvellously drafted. It felt quite architectural, and I was amazed at how everything came together. It was so enjoyable to sew something drafted in such a unique way. You can tell that this is drafted by someone who has had many year of experience in pattern drafting.

I’m looking forward exploring more of this unique drafting with my collaboration with Swimstyle Patterns.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Avola Top

Another great pattern from Cashmerette! I love this wide strapped version of this camisole top from Cashmerette. I wanted a plain white camisole top, and this is such a well-fitting top. I’m also very happy with the length as I prefer to wear my tops untucked so this lands at just the right spot for me.

I’ve used the Cashmerette sizing calculator, and it has been so accurate that I have been confidently skipping the toile. Not that it’s recommended but I’m sewing for an upcoming trip and this sizing calculator has not let me down yet! For my measurements of 35HB: 38FB: 33W, it was recommended that I sew a C Cup, size 10 bodice grading to a size 14 waist. I think it’s very comfortable and the only adjustment needed was to trim 1.5 inches off the straps.

The fabric is from my stash. It’s a beautiful white linen/cotton blend with subtle texture created by the weave. For the lining, I’ve used a white muslin. I tend to use muslin for lining because it’s very light and the weave is loose, so it’s works very comfortably as lining. Sometimes, if the lining is made from stiff cotton, it can pull the shell of the top or dress out of shape. Whatever, you use for lining must be loose and have some give.

Great wide straps that cover the bra straps

This pattern also comes as a dress. I have some fabric earmarked for the dress. This pattern is lovely as a slip dress. I want to use the other strap option which is a narrow strap and uses rings and sliders to make it adjustable. That would be something new to try as I’ve never sewn that before.

This top will be a great core item in my closet. It’s fun to make colourful dresses but it’s items like this which are the workhorse of a closet! Happy to be adding to my basics collection.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Joni Blouse

Pattern Scout has released a new pattern! I was lucky enough to get on the testing team. I love testing for Pattern Scout, the patterns are always well set out and comprehensive. It makes sewing so straight forward. Another reason I wanted to do this test was that the pattern included shirring which is a skill that I have been curious about for a while now.

The style of the Joni Blouse is very feminine and has the cottage core look with the puff sleeves, gathers around the square neckline and shirring to add shape. I’ve made the blouse version for the test, but I can’t wait to go back to sew the dress version. Now that I’ve figured out shirring, I’m hooked and can’t wait to do more of it. In the dress version, there’s multiple rows of shirring on the back bodice.

The Joni Blouse is made for lightweight woven fabric. I’ve used a beautiful crepe which I found at my local Spotlight Store. I would have also used a lightweight linen, rayon, or cotton lawn. The crepe is very light weight and easy to wear. The blouse only required about 1 ½ meters of this fabric. I also had to get shirring thread which is a very fine elastic thread that must be transferred to a bobbin.

Some tips that I would recommend for shirring is to test out a piece of your fabric before starting. I played around with the tension because when I first started, I couldn’t see much gathering. I increased the stitch length to the longest length, and I also moved my tension dial up to a 7. I hand wound my elastic thread onto the bobbin and was firm but did not pull on the elastic thread. The instructions also gave some tips how to sew multiple rows of shirring which I’ll test out when I make the dress version. I did a back stitch at the beginning and end of the row, but I wasn’t sure if this is something that everyone does?

My sizing was in the size 12 range and with the generous amount of ease, I did not have to make any fit alterations. My measurements are 35HB:37B:33W. This pattern has a range of sizes from 0 to 30. The best thing about Pattern Scout patterns is the cup size option. So good that I don’t have to do an SBA! I used the B Cup option.

The construction came together quite quickly. I love the construction of the square neckline. The drawstring is threaded through a channel that you make around the neckline which makes it easy to shape to the size you want and sits so comfortably. Also, the sleeves come in three options and its summer here, so I made the short-sleeved version. It was easy to install with the raglan sleeves.

First pattern test of the year! So excited to discover a new pattern. Hope that there’s more to come.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em