Blair Skirt – Em Sew Happy Blog

A while back, I was part of the testing team for this skirt. I really love the look. It was released for their autumn collection, but I think it looks great all year round. As part of a paid collaboration for Instagram, I was asked if I could make another version of the True Bias Blair Skirt.

The skirt comes in three lengths, mini, midi and maxi. I’ve made the midi again because it’s versatile seasonally and I know I’ll reach for it many times. The general design is a skirt that is fitted over the waist and hips which then goes straight down to the hem. It has a front button placket and comes with the option of adding pockets with an inverted pleat, belt loops and a belt. I added all the extras!

My sizing fell into the Size 12 range with my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips and 167cm height. I didn’t feel that I needed to make any modifications. I think that the main watch point for fitting is the hip measurement because there is limited ease in the pattern. It’s true to say that I found the pattern true to size.

Fabric choice is quite straightforward for this pattern. Anything medium to heavy weight woven would be the way to go with the main fabric so I chose a light-coloured denim. This beige denim suits my style, and I wanted this skirt to be a staple in my wardrobe. I love colour and pattern but against a backdrop of something that is neutral. There is a bit of lining fabric needed for inner side of the waistband and the pockets. I used some beautiful scraps from Melco Fabric. It’s worth saving all the scraps from your sewing projects!

My skirt needed nine buttons for the button placket and two for the pockets. I feel I’m making some progress with button installation. I like how the pattern includes a guide for the buttonholes and button placement. It helps to take the guesswork out of the equation. I am tempted to get the button measuring gauge but wonder how useful it is. I’m starting to get quite a collection of useful sewing tools. Unfortunately, my buckles ordered from Amazon have not arrived at this time. When it finally arrives, I’ll be making the matching belt to go with the skirt. I’m quite keen to make my first proper belt!

Sewing the True Bias Blair Skirt was a pleasure. I’ve made many True Bias patterns and so glad I came across their patterns as a novice self-taught sewist. I learn so much from Indi patterns like these. No hiccups but also, I am learning that it’s important to go back and sew the patterns a few times. I feel that I could understand the pattern better and made some decisions of my own for my version. Simple things like using a blind hem stitch for the skirt hem, reversing the instalment of the button placket so I could stitch in the ditch because I preferred to minimise my stitch lines. My next version could be the complete opposite where I use top stitching to highlight all the stitching. The point is, sewing is such a superpower because we can customise what we’re making.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Full Disclosure: Paid collaboration with True Bias for Instagram but all opinions remain my own.

Another pattern test under my belt! This time it’s for True Bias and the pattern is the Blair Skirt which is a woven skirt that’s fitted through the waist and hips. It’s also got these cool pockets with inverted pleats. It is fastened by buttons down the centre front and there is an option to make your own belt. I’ve chosen to sew the midi length version but also comes in mini and maxi lengths.

When I had my first look at the pattern illustration, I pictured a khaki-coloured skirt to match the utilitarian feel of the pockets and belt. However, I found a cotton drill in a beautiful design called, “Warlukurlangu Snake Vine Dreaming”, in earthy red, yellow, and ochre tones. This fabric is a design by Ingrid Napangardi Williams who is from the Northern Territory and who began painting with the Warlukurlangu Artists Aboriginal Corporation, an Aboriginal owned and governed art centre located in Yuendumu, in 1999. I was so drawn to the dynamic forms and the beautiful display of colours. The cotton drill was the perfect medium weight woven being a heavier twill weave for the skirt but still lightweight enough to be worn comfortably.

So, this change in direction with my fabric meant that I had to think carefully about pattern placement. It was important to match the two front panels. The amount of fabric required does increase with pattern matching so I ended up with 2.5 meters of the main fabric. The pattern is quite dynamic and distinct so I decided that stacking the same fabric for pockets, button placket and waistband would make everything “too busy” for the eyes, so I’ve paired the fabric with a plain wine-coloured drill. I used a bit under half a meter of this to make a border with the waistband and button placket, and of course, the pair of matching pockets with those cool inverted pleats.

There were some minor tweaks of the sizing during testing, but I can confidently sew the size 12 again for my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I would measure your waist and hips in sitting as well, this is something I’ve picked up from working with Cashmerette patterns and I use it when I know that a pattern is close fitting like the Blair Skirt. There is about 1” ease in the pattern.

True Bias instructions are always comprehensive with glossary, printing instructions, fabric layouts, and illustrations to match the steps in the construction. I especially enjoyed installing the button placket. Amazingly, I found the perfect buttons for the skirt. The semi circles remind me of the Aboriginal symbol for a person and the circle of these are symbolic of a campfire. It was a random find but so perfect for the fabric! Love comes in many forms with the skirt from finding the perfect fabric to the design of the skirt. It’s been fun to stretch my sewing skills by participating in another pattern test. Hopefully there will be more to come in the future.