Choosing my first project for the year has been hard and I’ve been dithering. So instead of sewing, I cleaned my sewing space, and I was inspired when I came across this awkward piece of leftover fabric from my collaboration with Maaidesign last year when they were featuring designs from Johanna Ralph. This fabric design is named Silent Bloom which features a beautiful abstract design.
I had about half a meter leftover and a long strip which was about 15cm in width. I had enough for the bodice pieces because the fabric width was about 150cm. What I struggled with was fitting the bias pieces for the ties and straps. I considered using pre-made bias binding or perhaps a contrast binding. However, I’ve been trying to be more conscious about fabric waste, so I decided to cut on a bias but not a true bias. I made sure that I cut the neckline piece on a true bias but not the longer strips.
For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I chose to make the size 12 without any modifications. The Calvin is a wrap top or dress. Ultimately, I want to make the dress, but the top makes a great wearable toile for the dress. The straps are adjustable and one of the reasons why I wanted to sew this pattern was to learn how to install the bra sliders that make the straps adjustable. The instructions were fantastic to learn and sew from which is why I return repeatedly to True Bias patterns to learn new skills.
A word on my bra sliders, the ring is right but the sliders are not. They would normally be used for detachable straps but these were the only ones available at my local Spotlight store so I just bought them but I’m planning to swap them over when I can get hold of the right sliders. Those with an eagle eye have probably already spotted them from my Instagram reels.
Happily, the slight change with the longer strips of bias binding worked fine. The pattern came together quite fast and I didn’t feel a need to modify anything. I was worried about the length of the top before starting but didn’t change it because it’s a toile for the dress. I’m very happy with the top length which hits below the natural waist.
I’m now looking forward to sewing the dress version. Using the linen was fine for the top but I’m thinking about drapier fabric for the dress. Making this top has me so excited about sewing again. I didn’t realise how much I was missing it until sitting back at my sewing machine. It has been a bit of respite from a tumultuous and distressing end to 2025.
Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
X Em
Em Sew Happy Blog 