Dressmaking – Em Sew Happy Blog

Rectangle Top

When I bought this pattern, I didn’t expect to be making such a playful, elegant blouse just from two pieces of rectangles. I’ve been using Sewing Therapy patterns for a while now and have come to expect reliable, beautiful patterns from Sara who is the creative behind Sewing Therapy Patterns. This blouse really exceeded all expectations. I’ve made the View A, but I can see myself making View B and C as well soon.

Best of all, Sara drafted this top to use up remnants. For this top, I used some remnant polka dotted rayon. It was something I bought from East Coast Textiles which is sadly no longer trading. I chose the rayon because of the fluid drape of the fabric which suits the shirring. I like how Sara has a table setting out detailed instructions on how to choose the right fabric. I would have loved this when I first started sewing because fabric choice only improves with experience and I use to agonise over it, sadly sometimes making a mistake.

For the Size L, I used less than 1 meter of fabric. I chose the L from my bust measurement of 38 inches. It’s a very beginner friendly pattern for sizing because there is such a range and ease in the pattern. I really love how the shape is given by stitching and shirring. Speaking of shirring, I had almost forgotten how to do it. Sara does explain it very well in the pattern, but I find that my machine is always the exception when it comes to these things. I tested on a scrap piece of fabric, but it didn’t work. I found that for my machine, I had to wind the shirring elastic onto the bobbin with a bit of tension, and I had to turn up my machine tension. I also followed the instructions in increasing my stitch length. The main thing is to test before starting on the real piece.

Sewing Therapy Instructions always come with YouTube videos which are wonderfully high quality. This time, Sara has included beautiful hand drawn illustrations with her written instructions which are so useful too. I watch Sewing Therapy videos for general relaxation anyway. It’s the perfect Sunday afternoon reset activity.

I have some remnant linen which I will be using up with my next rectangle blouse. This project was a quick sew which is great when time or energy is short. It’s also a good project for those last minute makes when you have an event you need something for. Overall, a fun few hours of sewing!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Ayla Pants

Sewing with knit fabric has always been an area that I find challenging. Initially, I believed I could simply steer clear of it, but as my sewing experience grew, I realised I would be missing out on many wonderful and comfortable additions to my handmade wardrobe. The Ayla Pants is the latest release from True Bias, and I’ve been lucky enough to be invited onto the testing team. It’s the perfect entry level knit garment to sew.

The Ayla Pants are wide leg, pull-on knit pants. There are two views, and I chose to sew View A which does not have the seam down the front and back leg pieces that View B has. It’s a very quick sew because there are only two pattern pieces and the waistband folds down from those pieces.

Knit fabric is still quite a mystery to me but I think the pattern really breaks down what sort of knit fabric to look for. There is a stretch ruler and a list of the types of knits that would suit the project. I found an olive-green Ponte which feels so soft to wear. It’s a thick double-knit fabric which is firmer, thicker and more stable than other knit fabrics. I think my choice of fabric is quite good for a more casual look so next time I would like to explore something for a dressier look, perhaps in black.

I chose to change my needle to a ball-point needle and sewed mine on my sewing machine and then used the overlocker to finish my seams, but it would be fine to use the overlocker throughout. I used the sewing machine with the instructed stitch lengths, and it really worked well! I also like to sew on the machine first in case I had to make any adjustments. Speaking of adjustments, I sewed the instructions as is and as this was a tester, I did not make any adjustments. I like to show the piece as drafted by the designer unless they have explicitly instructed us to change it. I think this gives clearer feedback. There has been a slight adjustment to the rise based on everyone’s feedback which is great because I’ve always found True Bias Patterns are very reliable on their sizing.

The size I tested was the size 12 which is my standard for True Bias. For my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, I found the pattern was true to size. I did give some feedback about where the waist landed for me. Again, True Bias always gets the pattern to a high standard before sending it out for testing which makes it so easy. The instructions were faultless. Illustrations were also included step by step which really helps a visual learner like me.

Although knit fabric sewing is still more challenging to me than sewing wovens, I’m glad I’m over my fear-avoidant phase when it comes to sewing knit. Knits are comfortable and easy to wear due to the stretch and flexibility of the material. It’s also durable and easy to wash and wear without needing to iron!

The Ayla Pants is such a stylish and comfortable pair of pants which can easily be dressed up or down. The wide leg design means that it can be worn with boots in winter or it can be easily paired with chunky sneakers and a tee for summer. I’m really looking forward to wearing this. Most importantly, I’m gaining valuable sewing experience because of fantastic resources that patterns like this provide for home sewists.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Fern Dress

Featuring Linen from Maaidesign Artist Collection

Maai Design have launched the third drop of their Artist Collection; this time featuring Gabriela Larios and Alison Willoughby. For the collaboration, I was offered three meters of fabric of my choice. I decided on the Strawberry Poem in Linen by Gabriela Larios. I thought it would be the perfect match for the By Galia Patterns Fern Dress which needs a lightweight to medium woven fabric with soft drape.

The Fern Dress is a classic dress design featuring round neck and a gathered skirt. It’s loose fitting which is adjustable with waistline ties that can be tied front and back or on the sides. Galia has included so many options with this dress. It’s something that can be sewn in so many ways and each version could be different. I decided to sew the half-length puff sleeves with elasticated hem. I went with the button closure in the back. Best of all, there are pockets!

There is something about Galia’s patterns that makes you feel so good. The fit description is so accurate. With my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I sewed the size 10. My waist measurements do fall between the size 10 and size 12 but I decided not to grade as there is a lot of ease in the pattern (looking at the finished measurements). The dress is midi length which I did not have to adjust for my height of 167cm. I love how the dress falls below my knees at mid-calf.

Linen is so easy to sew with. I always start by washing and ironing my fabric. I love to line dry my fabric but throw it in the dryer at your own risk, the care instructions do not recommend it. The fabric is quite broad at 140cm but it’s important to note that the pattern does not go all the way to the end. The Fern Dress pattern used most of the fabric which was a relief.

The fabric is 150g/m2 (5oz) which sits at the top end of lightweight and bottom end of medium weight. I used a universal 90/14 gage sewing needle which worked well for the fabric. I finished the seams on an overlocker without any issues. The skirt needed quite a bit of gathering and again, there were no issues doing this with the linen.

Sewing By Galia’s patterns is such a pleasure with her detailed instructions. I feel that as a home sewist, I really appreciate the extra details that Galia puts into her pattern instructions. For example, she instructs double stitching under the arm. The first time I sewed By Galia patterns, the illustrations were hand drawn but for the Fern Dress she has chosen to use photographs which also work well. I only have a black and white printer and I’m not great at following written instructions on the computer while I sew so I printed the instructions but when needed, I referred to the photos as needed on the computer.

It was wonderful to sew this dress. I didn’t make a toile because I felt so confident in Galia’s fitting notes. It’s always a pleasure to collaborate with Maai Design because they consistently curate the most beautiful designs to marry to the best quality fabric. They also allow creativity and choice in the collaboration which means that I will wear my dress for many more years to come. I’ve been a faithful subscriber to Maai Design since I started sewing and I’ve never been disappointed. Sewing with good fabric is an investment. Cut that good fabric and enjoy it!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Grace Trousers

Summer is almost here, and I really need to cover some gaps in my wardrobe. I love dresses but I needed some tops and pants as well. This year A Sewing Life released their first apparel pattern. It was exactly what I was looking for. The Grace Trousers is a relaxed fit, flowy design with elasticated paper-bag waistband. It has a sewn-in tie belt in the front. It’s going to be so comfortable wearing these in summer.

When I bought the pattern, Lisa was kind enough to chat to me about fabric choices. The pattern is designed for woven fabric but needs something with a fair amount of drape. I wish I could afford silk but instead, I found some rayon which is known to be the poor man’s version of silk. I was happy to find 3 meters of this solid brick coloured rayon at my local Spotlight store. I think the solids will be a good match for some of the colourful tops that I’ll be sewing for summer.

My sizing fell between the Size 14 and 16 with my waist measurement of 33-inch and 40-inch hips. The fit instructions were to go with the bigger measurements but due to the ease in the pattern and the front rise measurements provided, I decided to sew the Size 14 without grading. I did a brief toile of the short version which helped me decide to stick to the size 14.

I couldn’t figure out from the different versions that I checked out on Instagram whether these pants were mid-rise or high-waisted. I love wearing everything high-waisted, so I’ve sewn mine to fit that way. I moved my belt ties up by 1cm to help lengthen my front rise. I’m not experienced with pants adjustment, but I thought this was just a simple way of adjusting the rise. I then had to sew the waistband down at 5cm not 6cm and when I stitched the waistband to make the ruffle for the waistband, I sewed it at 5/8-inch instead of 3cm. This probably doesn’t make sense unless you’re looking at the instructions of the pattern.

Speaking of instructions, they’re excellent. I think Lisa runs sewing classes, so everything is labelled and explained in simple terms. I think even without any sewing knowledge, you could easily understand the instructions and they have photos accompanying every step. One small part of the instruction which I would recommend revising is the first step. It says to overlock at the beginning however, the pattern pieces have notches that stick out in little triangles. Some patterns have lines which you snip into the fabric, but the Grace Trousers uses the method of cutting out from the main line of the fabric. If you serge the pieces then you would lose the notches, so I finished the seams only once the seams were sewn. I only mention this as the pattern is for absolute beginners.

My height is 167cm so with the provided measurements for inside leg and outside leg, I knew that I would have to shorten the pants. I just cut from the bottom by 2 inches. I left the extra length when I was cutting my fabric and only adjusted the pants when I came to hem them. I could have shortened the pant legs by more than 2 inches, but I wanted to sew a deep hem to weigh down the bottom of the trousers.

I’m very happy with my new summer pants. The Grace Trousers will get a lot of wear and I can’t wait to start matching it with some colourful tops.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Paloma Top

So excited to get into the testing pool for the newly released Swimstyle Patterns Paloma Top. I just loved the unique style and design immediately. The top features two ties that are sewn down at the front and are threaded through the back. These ties can be left loose, or they can be used to cinch in under the bust and waist to feature a peplum. It also features a yoke and gathering with biased binding to finish the neckline and arm openings.

This pattern is designed for woven fabric. I used a medium weight cotton that I extracted from an old doona cover. It was nice how the cotton gave it some structure but in my next version, I would use a lighter weight fabric. I have thrifted some old Saris and would been keen to experiment with that. The Saris are made from georgette fabric so it would be super lightweight and drapey. This version is my tester version so it’s not perfect but I was so excited to share it.

My sizing is always consistent with Swimstyle Patterns. My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips sat within the Size L so that is what I tested. It was pretty much spot on. There was one adjustment that all the testers agreed on, and it was quickly adjusted and remedied. Apart from that, I didn’t find any other adjustments were needed.

There was some suggestion of making a dress version of this top which I had thought of when I was making it. I think this would make such a pretty dress! I have matched this top with quite a few items already in my closet, so I know that I’ll be getting a lot of wear out of it.

I’ve been so lucky to test quite a few patterns this year. It’s an enjoyable process to help in a small way, bring a pattern to life. Testing for Swimstyle was enjoyable and stress free. I liked the testing period, and the Facebook group was helpful and communication was orderly. Looking forward to making the Paloma Top again.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Nova Coat for Frocktails

Still recovering from Frocktails 2025 which is an annual gathering of sewing enthusiasts and is hosted in many different locations around the world. It was a fun night of delightful sewing banter, finally meeting familiar faces from social media in real life and getting to fondle a lot of fabric (with permission of course!).

The process of making or thinking about what to wear for the night started many months back. I wasn’t specifically thinking about Frocktails at the time, it was just that my growing hoard of sewing scraps had been bugging me, and my husband had cleaned out his closet and found some old pairs of jeans that were not fit for donating. I think there was also a sewing challenge based around upcycling that started me down this path.

I was initially planning on only using the denim to make another Papercut Nova Coat. In this version, I wanted to make the shorter version and size down a few sizes. I have a lovely long wool version, but I’ve always needed something in a lighter weight for the in-between seasons. As mentioned, I was trying to complete a sewing challenge, but inspiration and motivation was lacking as I started to cut into the denim. So, I stopped. I’m glad I did because I don’t think I would have achieved something that I love as much as the jacket I’ve ended up with.

After a pause of another couple of months, I started to envision the jacket I wanted. I have a lovely memory of my friend Hiromi, who gave me a gift in a box that she had covered in little bits and pieces of washi paper. The gift was a beautifully folded crane, but I fell in love with the box that housed it. Each piece was thoughtfully placed but irregular. There were no regular shapes, yet it felt cohesive. To my ten-year-old eyes, it was like a multifaced piece of jewellery. I wanted my jacket to have that thoughtful but irregular placement using my scraps, but I wanted to ground the scraps with pieces of denim so that the eyes have something to rest on like an outline in a painting.

Once inspiration struck, it was easy to work out what to do next. I started by reprinting my Nova Coat pattern pieces. Last time, I had sized down from a size 4 to a size 3. I went down another two sizes to the size 1. The main consideration is the bust measurement, the sleeve length and the length of the coat. I was sewing the shorter version. The finished garment measurements are so helpful and accurate. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips.

The next thing I had to work out was how to place and secure my scrap pieces. Since I wasn’t making traditional quilting blocks, I decided to cut a “base” for the scraps to rest on. If you’re cringing at my lack of technical knowledge as an expert quilter, I am putting a disclaimer here that I have no experience in quilting. Do not use this as a tutorial. Mine was a joyfully creative process. Once I had the pattern pieces cut out of an old bedsheet, I could place and sew on my pieces. I made sure everything was irregular but was cohesive with the colours and contrast I was trying to create. I cut the side back panels, and pocket pieces directly from my upcycled denim without needing to sew them onto a base. It was then easy to sew everything as instructed. The Nova Jacket is fully lined. I used another old sheet for this lining. The beauty of using old sheets is that everything is so soft from being washed in.

The jacket matched my True Bias Quinn Dress which I wore for the night. I was so happy with the outcome and comfortable on the night. I’ve found this process of using my sewing scraps to be fun and creative. It’s quite an addictive process and I made the Motif Studio Origami bag using the same process. I’ll be searching for more ways to use up my scraps. I’m glad that I’ve been keeping everything, no matter how small. It’s also a lovely reminder of all my past projects.

It was so inspiring to see the beautiful outfits but also to be in a space where women support women. Lots of compliments and chatter about outfits and fabric. There was a man who came along and kudos because he won best dressed! It was an inclusive space which felt welcoming. I’ll definitely be marking it in my diary for next year.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

La Ciotat Skirt

The La Ciotat Skirt stands out as a unique wrap skirt design, offering both style and practicality. Unlike standard wrap skirts, this one features a double front wrap, eliminating any concerns about wardrobe malfunctions. The addition of a flattering waist panel contributes to its elegant silhouette, and the two ties ensure that the skirt stays securely in place.

After purchasing the pattern, I spent some time searching for the perfect fabric. Eventually, I realised that the ideal choice was already in my fabric stash: two and a half metres of Tencel fabric adorned with a Christie Williams print. This fabric had been with me for about three years, cherished for its beautiful colours and its reflection of the distinctive Australian landscape. This project finally provided the perfect opportunity to use it.

The La Ciotat Skirt pattern is comprised of rectangles for the main body and curved pieces for the waist panel. It offers flexibility, allowing sewists to either print the pattern or cut pieces directly from the measurements provided. I selected size L, which suited my measurements of a 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. The finished skirt ends just at the top of my ankles, which I find to be a flattering length. I did not need to make any modifications to the pattern.

This pattern is straightforward to sew, featuring pieces that fit together logically and a flexible skirt style that eliminates the need for a toile. Beginners will find Sewing Therapy’s YouTube tutorials especially helpful, while the written instructions are clear and beneficial for more experienced sewists. I personally enjoy watching Sara’s videos while sewing; her teaching style is both relaxing and informative.

Every time I work with a Sewing Therapy pattern or watch one of Sara’s videos, I pick up a new tip or technique. For this project, I tried her suggested method for creating gathers. Rather than using the traditional double line of long stitches, I increased the stitch length and tension, as advised. This approach produced beautiful gathers, but I would recommend leaving very long thread tails for adjustments. I nearly ran out of thread tail, but fortunately, it all worked out in the end.

My spring–summer handmade wardrobe is growing, and I’m becoming more confident in my creations. I’m looking forward to wearing my skirt on windy days and sunny days! I’m so excited to be getting around to using some of my “good” fabric.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Viola Vest

Some patterns I sew are real skill builders and the Viola Vest is one of these. I have a few things to work out with this pattern, and I considered not sharing until I made a version that I was one hundred percent happy with, but this blog has always been a journal for my sewing whether successful or not. I decided that I should jot a few notes down and come back to it.

Swimstyle Patterns has been my go-to for elegant, elevated core wardrobe items. The Viola Vest is drafted for knit fabric and has a wide V-Neck with angled, overlapped side seams. It has an oversized relaxed fit. I bought this for that relaxed oversized look.

My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips fit into the L size range so that was the pattern size that I cut. Generally, this was great. I like how the pattern also included how to choose the right fabric with what stretch and recovery was needed. I found a ribbed knit that was suitable, but I didn’t consider how bulky the ribbed knit would get. I do have a very basic home sewing machine which might have also affected my ability to deal with the bulkiness of my fabric.

The part I thought I would struggle with was the V-Neck. It actually worked very well and was easy with the excellent instructions provided. I felt that I skilled up by sewing this neckline. The part that I couldn’t work with was the angled and overlapped side seam. The side seams are neatly folded and finished before being angled to sew together about 4 layers. The folded seams provided a great finish to the vest. However, with 4 layers, I had problems getting the angle and the bulk made it hard to stitch the seam as instructed. In the end, I had to sew it with a straight stitch.

Another thing is the hem which is sewn and prepared all in one before joining the side seams. The bottom is a bit wavy so I must have pulled the fabric a bit when sewing. I’m a bit of a perfectionist and I considered unpicking and retaking the photos but I decided to leave it and try again with another fabric. I need to give myself more grace when it comes to my sewing.

So, I’m not sure if the armhole sits too low because of my modified stitching or whether this was part of the design. I need to find slightly thinner fabric to make it again but I’m not sure if I should size down. This is why I like stalking a pattern on Instagram because it’s handy to see items on other people (regardless of size).

I would have always worn this vest with a shirt or tank top underneath anyway, so I still feel this is a good addition to my closet. I’ll be trying to find another knit for this vest because I love the look so much.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Vanja Dress

Earlier this year, I entered The Cloth Edit sewing challenge called Sew April Blouse, and I won a PDF pattern from Monsterfabriken. I was so excited to win the pattern amongst all the beautiful entries and was also excited to discover a new designer. The thing I admire most about Monsterfabriken is their philosophy of making their sizing adjustable to ensure that once sewn, those garments will last therefore helping to reduce clothing waste.

It was hard to choose a pattern from their beautiful library of patterns but in the end, I settled on the Vanja Dress which is a V-neck dress or top. It has an adjustable waist with ties, or it can also be sewn with a wide belt. I made the dress version which stops at mid-calf. There are slits on the side and of course, pockets! I jumped straight into the dress version, but I do love patterns that include a version that can be toiled. I didn’t make a toile because I thought that the sizing system was so good.

Talking about the sizing system, here is where Monsterfabriken is unique. Instead of the traditional sizing system which can vary from brand to brand, they base their sizing on primary measurements of the body. The tops are then based on the chest measurements, and the bottoms are based on the hip measurements. All the other measurements are secondary. It’s all very comprehensive and in the end, you’ll end up with a garment that fits the way you want it to. Once all the measurements are done, it’s an easy process to print the only size you need and there is an option to include seamlines. I chose to print without because I have confused myself before when it was an option and ended up cutting the wrong lines.

I did hesitate a little when I had finished sewing the bodice. It was fine once I had attached the skirt and does fall at the natural waistline. This always seems to be the point where I worry the most when I’m sewing something new.

The fabric is drafted for woven fabric. I had a Jamuna vegetable dyed handblocked cotton from Spotlight which was perfect for this dress. It’s beautifully lightweight and it’s great for hot weather. I am drawn towards the cooler colours for summer with blues, greens and whites. I’ve have found picking colours for the season helpful when putting together my sewing plans.

The Vanja sewing instructions were fantastic and the illustrations also helpful. It’s important to note that Monsterfabriken is a Swedish company and I was using the English translated instructions. The layout of the instructions is logical and excellent. I also downloaded the extra instructions which you’re given a passcode for however, I didn’t need to use them because the instructions that came with the pattern bundle was sufficient.

There was one point of the instructions that did confuse me. It was in the construction of the slit. I wondered if the original pattern might have had a seam allowance of 2cm but was changed to 1cm without changing the instructions. In the end, it was easy to modify. I just continued the overlocking down the side seam. This was then turned twice to finish the slit.

I love the design of the Vanja Dress. In this version, I made matching ties for the dress. I would love to make the wide belt version and have contrasting fabric for the neckline and hem. The best past is knowing that any small size changes will be easily accommodated because of the clever design by Monsterfabriken.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Milenda Dress featuring Johanna Ralph collection from MaaiDesign

Maaidesign is launching a new fabric brand called Johanna Ralph* and I was super excited to receive a preview of the Silent Bloom print. It’s a beautiful abstract graphic married with elegance. I chose to preview the linen, but the print comes in other substrates. When this luxurious linen arrived, quite a few patterns sprang to mind. I settled on the Milenda Dress because I thought that the linen would feature the linen beautifully. Linen is great for items needing structure.

I tried making this dress about five years ago. I had just started sewing and I loved the look of the dress. Even though the pattern advises that it’s for intermediate level sewist, I jumped in and tried to sew it. I used a double gauze and instantly started making mistakes like not adding the pattern pieces to make the right length, I confused the pleat construction, I didn’t attach the bias binding or the pockets the right way. However, despite all that, I was super proud, and the Milenda Dress has ended up being a dress I’ve reached for repeatedly.

The Milenda is a classic shift dress that can be pulled over the head. The design these features pleats in the front and back which release into a skirt. These pleats are a clever feature and really help to shape the dress in a flattering way.

When this beautiful 100% linen fabric arrived from Maaidesign, I knew I had to make the Milenda Dress again. I started by giving it a cold wash and then a cool dry in my dryer. I then changed my machine needle to a universal 90/12 gage needle. Linen does wrinkle so a good press is essential before sewing. I don’t mind the wrinkles once it’s sewn but it’s good to iron it to make sure the pattern pieces remain accurate.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, I made the size M. No modifications were needed. I was so happy that I could follow the instructions to the tee! I guess I am making progress with my sewing. On a little side note, the Tessuti instructions are excellent, but the pictures are photographed not illustrated so it’s easier to follow the instruction on the computer. Everything is logical and the construction is excellent.

Don’t you love a dress with pockets? I loved how these pockets were constructed because they sit to the front. Also, the pockets are at the perfect level and are properly deep.

When I photographed the dress, I realised that the fabric is slightly gauzy and sheer. It’s still perfectly modest without needing lining. The linen is very lightweight; from memory it’s under 5 oz or 150 gsm and had a generous width of 150cm. I can’t wait to wear the dress when the weather starts to warm up. Linen is just so comfortable in summer. Looking at the Johanna Ralph collection, I think it’s going to be a hit with those bold, abstract prints.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Full Disclosure: The fabric was provided for preview and Instagram content. No blog post was required but I share everything on my blog and love documenting all my makes. All opinions remain my own.