Dressmaking – Page 6 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Sorrento Shorts

When Eloh Patterns released the Sorrento Shorts pattern, I was quick to jump on and buy it because I love the look of that flat front and I find semi elasticated trousers and shorts to be quite comfortable. Anything that doesn’t squeeze me in the middle! These shorts come with the bonus of extra big pockets, and I love the little flare facilitated by the pleats in the front.

It’s a straightforward pattern to sew and fit. I made a size 12 with my waist measurement of 33 inches and hip measurement of 40 inches. I did receive an email after my purchase with updated instructions about choosing the right size as the waistband is narrower than the hips. I usually look at both hip and waist measurements before deciding on a size. Sometimes I grade between sizes. I was unsure why that instruction had to be updated in the pattern? I did my usual try on before attaching my waistband and everything worked out fine in the sizing.

The pattern suggests medium weight fabric, so I chose to use some leftover poplin from my stash. Feeling very pleased that I’m working through my stash this year. If I’m honest, the motivation to get through the stash is so I can justify buying some great fabric that I’ve bookmarked. Just waiting for sales! The poplin has worked very well for the pattern.

Seam allowances. This pattern has 2cm as the seam allowance due to French seams. I must be honest and say that I overlocked my seams as I only tend to use French seams with thin, lightweight, or delicate fabrics. I know it’s the choice of the seamstress and the pattern maker but I was wondering if the French seams would be bulky in this category of fabric? I ended up trimming all my seam allowances down to 1cm to reduce bulk. I guess you can argue that 2cm is not that far from a 5/8-inch seam allowance which is quite standard for woven fabric patterns so I didn’t necessarily have to trim the seams down.

Generally, my one little criticism is a storm in a teacup because overall, Eloh patterns has impressed me. The fit, design and instructions that included illustrations are an excellent standard. I won’t hesitate to purchase more of her patterns. It was a really relaxing sew which is much needed after a stressful week. I love how sewing focusses my mind on something completely different for a while. Also, straight after sewing, I put them on, and they are superbly comfortable to wear! Great for the heatwave we are experiencing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Holyoke Dress featuring Melco Fabrics

This is not a sponsored post. Melco fabrics gifted me the fabric and reached out for a review without any obligations to post. When Melco fabrics reached out to me, I hadn’t really heard about print on demand fabrics. Basically, the concept is that you can order from a variety of featured artists, in this case, Deer Fiorella, and you can order the substrate and fabric amount needed which is what will be supplied. Less waste, more sustainable and environmentally responsible. I love that this is happening in the sewing arena.

I chose the Gypsy Girl Sundance for my Holyoke Dress in a poplin. The Holyoke is a Cashmerette Club pattern which is a maxi dress featuring princess seams, button placket, a partially elasticised waistband and most importantly, pockets. I had used the skirt of this pattern to pair with the Hamden dress bodice in a previous make, but I really wanted to make the Holyoke dress in its original form.

Poplin is not the usual type of fabric that I reach for, but I wanted to try a more structured look for the dress. Poplin was a popularised in the 1950s with those beautiful full skirt dresses. It’s really durable and wrinkle resistant but still lightweight enough to wear comfortably in warmer weather. I’m really impressed by the quality of the dye and the cotton from Melco. There was no loss of colour when I gave the fabric a hot wash and iron when preparing the fabric for sewing. It’s normal to expect a bit of shrinkage from cotton which is why it’s important to prepare the fabric before sewing. The amount wasn’t noticeable for my pattern.

The poplin is 110 grams per square meter (GSM) with medium drape, so I used a universal needle size 90/14 on my machine. This worked very well but I had a bit of a hairy moment when I was trying to sew through several layers of fabric at the waistband. I think there were a few skipped stitches, but I wasn’t going to redo that area as I was just grateful not to break any needles. I guess I could have sewn up to the waistband and then swapped the needle to a heavier size, but the button does close over the waistband anyway.

Sizing a Cashmerette dress is so easy because of the unique sizing calculator for their patterns. It’s as easy as punching your numbers in and getting your sizing recommendation. Mine was 35-inch high bust, 38-inch full bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips which recommended a size 10 bodice, size 14 waist and size 8 hip. I still made a toile as poplin does not have any stretch, so the sizing needs to be spot on. I followed the “Sew a quick and dirty muslin” tutorial for the toile. It is greatly detailed for anyone who isn’t familiar with the toiling process. I ended up making a slight adjustment to the side seams of the bodice.

Melco have really impressed me with the quality of their product. I love the designers featured and the fabric is a beautiful quality. I’m thrilled that they’re not just producing beautiful fabric, but they are passionate about ethical and sustainable fashion. Making and wearing something that has had a light touch on the environment makes me feel good about being someone who sews because sewing supports slow fashion for some of those same reasons.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

xEm

Joni Blouse

Pattern Scout has released a new pattern! I was lucky enough to get on the testing team. I love testing for Pattern Scout, the patterns are always well set out and comprehensive. It makes sewing so straight forward. Another reason I wanted to do this test was that the pattern included shirring which is a skill that I have been curious about for a while now.

The style of the Joni Blouse is very feminine and has the cottage core look with the puff sleeves, gathers around the square neckline and shirring to add shape. I’ve made the blouse version for the test, but I can’t wait to go back to sew the dress version. Now that I’ve figured out shirring, I’m hooked and can’t wait to do more of it. In the dress version, there’s multiple rows of shirring on the back bodice.

The Joni Blouse is made for lightweight woven fabric. I’ve used a beautiful crepe which I found at my local Spotlight Store. I would have also used a lightweight linen, rayon, or cotton lawn. The crepe is very light weight and easy to wear. The blouse only required about 1 ½ meters of this fabric. I also had to get shirring thread which is a very fine elastic thread that must be transferred to a bobbin.

Some tips that I would recommend for shirring is to test out a piece of your fabric before starting. I played around with the tension because when I first started, I couldn’t see much gathering. I increased the stitch length to the longest length, and I also moved my tension dial up to a 7. I hand wound my elastic thread onto the bobbin and was firm but did not pull on the elastic thread. The instructions also gave some tips how to sew multiple rows of shirring which I’ll test out when I make the dress version. I did a back stitch at the beginning and end of the row, but I wasn’t sure if this is something that everyone does?

My sizing was in the size 12 range and with the generous amount of ease, I did not have to make any fit alterations. My measurements are 35HB:37B:33W. This pattern has a range of sizes from 0 to 30. The best thing about Pattern Scout patterns is the cup size option. So good that I don’t have to do an SBA! I used the B Cup option.

The construction came together quite quickly. I love the construction of the square neckline. The drawstring is threaded through a channel that you make around the neckline which makes it easy to shape to the size you want and sits so comfortably. Also, the sleeves come in three options and its summer here, so I made the short-sleeved version. It was easy to install with the raglan sleeves.

First pattern test of the year! So excited to discover a new pattern. Hope that there’s more to come.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Launching into 2024

Setting down some goals for the new year like everyone else! Creatively, I don’t think the way I’ve sewn in the past year, has advanced my sewing. It’s been a bit random, and I’ve just listed a bunch of patterns that I wanted to sew. When I first started, my sewing was more targeted like when I wanted to learn how to install zips, I chose a lot of patterns that had zip installation in the pattern. Returning to those learning based goals, I’m going to slow the process down and really think about each detail of the process which will also mean that I document the process a bit differently. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still quite spontaneous in my sewing endeavours and when inspiration hits, I will probably still want to have a speedy sew or two but generally, I think it will be useful to record some of the work in progress in more detail.

Back to thinking about documentation, I find documenting my makes helps my learning process so I will continue to do it. I’m mainly focussing on skills but I want to expand my knowledge on fabric. I’ve built up quite a collection over the few years so this year I’m combining my Make Nine with a new prompt called Sew What I Have. The idea is to sew what fabric you currently have in your stash. I’m not promising not to get more but I’m going to be better at reaching for what I have before I go shopping.

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What will this mean for my Blog? I’ve been recording my makes according to the items made. I’m thinking of expanding this to highlight some of the skills that are featured in each pattern which might make the blogs more useful and more of a discussion platform. I’m mainly interested in learning so I’m always grateful when other makers tell me how they might do something. I’m happy with constructive feedback. Afterall, I’m only self-taught and have only been sewing for three and a bit years. I fully respect the industry experts and the makers that have been sewing since they were able to reach the sewing machine.

Here are some completed makes from 2023 that were from my Make Nine list. I deviated from it which meant that I ran out of time and motivation so I did not sew everything on the list.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Ash Pintuck Camisole

Excited to start the new year with another fantastic free make from the Fabric Store catalogue. This camisole is so comfortable to wear in summer and I love the special features of the pintucks and the half button placket. I’m especially proud of mastering the placket. I started this make in December and then lost my sewjo when I came across the button placket. It felt too complicated to tackle in a fully packed month of visitors and celebrations, so I packed it away and came back to it. Happily, I’ve learnt how to install the placket thanks to the fantastic tutorials that accompany these patterns. I also watched a few YouTube videos.

The sizing is straightforward with my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips fall in the size 8/10 and 12/14 range so I made a simple grade between the two sizes. The pattern is a great remnant buster because it only requires just under 1 meter. I had just enough of this beautiful cotton Indian Batik and that included making my own bias binding for the straps.

This is one of the best camisoles I’ve ever made. The straps stay put when you’re wearing it. I think it does this because the straps are thin, and they are fixed a bit closer to the midline in the front. I didn’t end up attaching the belt because I know that I would prefer to wear it loose. Although, it is a cute feature if you wanted a more fitted look.

Looking to the new year and sewing plans, I’m not sure if the “Make Nine” has been working out that well. The reason why I started sewing, was because I enjoyed learning a new skill and I wanted to see if I could build a fully handmade wardrobe. I used to be an avid shopper but now rarely buy ready to wear unless it’s work related. I enjoy the sense of peace and mindfulness that accompanies this hobby. I love discovering new patterns, but I think this year, I will aim to repeat sew to help reinforce a skill set. This means that I will be looking for patterns that have features that will help me further my sewing skills. I’m also hoping to take part in a few pattern tests because I enjoy the interaction with other makers. It’s also a great motivator and I love looking at the behind-the -scenes in the designer world.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Dewey Dress

The Dewey Dress is the pattern of the month December for Cashmerette Club. I’ve received my membership due to a previous collaboration, but all opinions remain my own and there was no obligation to sew this. I feel very lucky to have been gifted this Club Membership as it feels like I’ve really learnt a lot and have been able to develop my skills. I’m self-taught so I really do rely on good instructions and tutorials when I sew.

With the holiday season in full swing, I was on the lookout for a dress and when the Dewey Dress popped up, it fit the bill perfectly. It’s a knit fabric dress with a unique asymmetrical neckline which is carried through to the pleating on one shoulder and pleating the opposite overlay. The tulip skirt is fully enclosed with the overlay creating a faux wrap look. It’s sleeveless but I’ve seen a few other makers combining the Dewey pattern with elements from the Grafton, which is a mix and match pack, to add sleeves to their dresses.

I don’t have a great amount of experience sewing with knit fabric but I’m feeling more confident as I practise. My knit fabric was bought two years back in the Christmas sales. It’s a stable cotton jersey (like t-shirt material). One day, I’d love to try it in a fabulously glamourous metallic lamé. I had about 5 meters available, so I used the same fabric for lining the bodice. I had a little freak out when I cut the fabric because I had cut from the right side facing up like I usually would but reading the instructions more carefully, it did say to cut from the wrong side facing up. I thought that I would have to restart with another fabric but because I was consistent with cutting from the right side, it was fine. The only visible consequence is the reversal of which side the pleats sit on and my pleats face the wrong way.

For sizing, I made the size 10 without any modifications for my measurements of 35HB:38FB:33W:40H (inches). I used the C Cup bodice. I think the fit was great. There is a great sizing calculator that is available for all Cashmerette patterns, so I often refer to it to check. I decided not to grade as this is a knit fabric garment.

The process I enjoyed the most with this pattern was using the burrito method to finish the armholes. There’s no visible stitching from the outside. The whole construction process went smoothly because the instructions are always very comprehensive and there are great illustrations accompanying the instructions. I did also appreciate the YouTube tutorial by @SewSewLive. It’s always great to see someone else’s process when they sew.

There will be a few more items I hope to finish before the end of the year but I’m doubtful about accomplishing anything as I have a lot of spring cleaning that I’ve neglected. Sewing is always more fun right? I have also discovered Diary of a Vampire. It’s a teen drama but I have been binge watching as the last day to watch it is 31 December on Netflix and there are 8 seasons! Oh and of course, getting everything ready for Christmas. I’m sorry if I haven’t been able to get back to everyone’s messages but I really appreciate your readership.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Can I Sew It In One Hour

It’s getting to that time of year where time is a scarce commodity. I came across the Blomma Tank, a free pattern from Paradise Patterns, a few months ago and have been meaning to sew it up but things just kept popping up. I saw that other makers have said that it only takes a short time to sew. So, last weekend, I thought that I’d give myself an hour and I’ll see how far I get. For a laugh, I recorded my time. It was a surprise to me that I got as far as I did! I ended up making the whole thing in under two hours. So, no. I can’t sew it in one hour, but it was motivating to try!

The Blomma Tank is a core piece for the wardrobe. Great for layering in winter and just so comfortable on its own in summer. I didn’t toile the pattern as other makers had commented that the sizing was quite accurate. My sizing of 35-inch high-bust, 37-inch bust, and 33-inch waist sat between the size E and F in the B Cup. I decided to sew size F without any modifications. It is a close-fitting top so there is negative ease in the stretch fabric. I’ve used a bamboo stretch jersey which is very soft. I hadn’t realised that I needed bias binding, so I used the same fabric which was ok.

Knit fabric sewing is still unfamiliar to me. I think this has been the year where I’ve sewn the most with knits. I do love how comfortable wearing those knit fabric makes are so I’m going to persevere with it. You’ll see on my Blomma Tank that my neckband is a bit floppy which is showing my lack of skill. I deviated from the pattern instruction and attached the neckband and armhole bands with the overlocker as I’ve done in the past. I thought it would be fine but you can see that I don’t have the more sporty look as intended by the design of the pattern.

Back to the sewing challenge! I decided to start the Can I Sew It In One Hour hashtag (#CanISewItInOneHour) to keep myself motivated. I’m an over thinker and sometimes my need for perfection stops me from just giving something a go. It’s also that time of year when everyone is short on time and motivation so I thought it would be a fun way to connect with others who are feeling the same way. I’m excited to see what patterns others might suggest for me or what everyone will try. I hope to make it a safe space for anyone wanting to join in. It’s not a serious challenge with a hundred rules and there are no prizes apart from the joy of sewing. It’s a place for connection and support. I hope it inspires a lot of joyful sewing and laughter.

Pairing the Blomma Tank with Freerange Slacks, Wooster Jacket and Revisible Tote

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Blair Skirt

Another pattern test under my belt! This time it’s for True Bias and the pattern is the Blair Skirt which is a woven skirt that’s fitted through the waist and hips. It’s also got these cool pockets with inverted pleats. It is fastened by buttons down the centre front and there is an option to make your own belt. I’ve chosen to sew the midi length version but also comes in mini and maxi lengths.

When I had my first look at the pattern illustration, I pictured a khaki-coloured skirt to match the utilitarian feel of the pockets and belt. However, I found a cotton drill in a beautiful design called, “Warlukurlangu Snake Vine Dreaming”, in earthy red, yellow, and ochre tones. This fabric is a design by Ingrid Napangardi Williams who is from the Northern Territory and who began painting with the Warlukurlangu Artists Aboriginal Corporation, an Aboriginal owned and governed art centre located in Yuendumu, in 1999. I was so drawn to the dynamic forms and the beautiful display of colours. The cotton drill was the perfect medium weight woven being a heavier twill weave for the skirt but still lightweight enough to be worn comfortably.

So, this change in direction with my fabric meant that I had to think carefully about pattern placement. It was important to match the two front panels. The amount of fabric required does increase with pattern matching so I ended up with 2.5 meters of the main fabric. The pattern is quite dynamic and distinct so I decided that stacking the same fabric for pockets, button placket and waistband would make everything “too busy” for the eyes, so I’ve paired the fabric with a plain wine-coloured drill. I used a bit under half a meter of this to make a border with the waistband and button placket, and of course, the pair of matching pockets with those cool inverted pleats.

There were some minor tweaks of the sizing during testing, but I can confidently sew the size 12 again for my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I would measure your waist and hips in sitting as well, this is something I’ve picked up from working with Cashmerette patterns and I use it when I know that a pattern is close fitting like the Blair Skirt. There is about 1” ease in the pattern.

True Bias instructions are always comprehensive with glossary, printing instructions, fabric layouts, and illustrations to match the steps in the construction. I especially enjoyed installing the button placket. Amazingly, I found the perfect buttons for the skirt. The semi circles remind me of the Aboriginal symbol for a person and the circle of these are symbolic of a campfire. It was a random find but so perfect for the fabric! Love comes in many forms with the skirt from finding the perfect fabric to the design of the skirt. It’s been fun to stretch my sewing skills by participating in another pattern test. Hopefully there will be more to come in the future.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Catskills Jacket

My latest make is the Cashmerette Catskills Jacket. They collaborated with Julie Eilber to design this lovely bias-cut jacket. The inspiration came from the designs of Claire McCardell who was famous for her ready to wear outfits in post war America. She is credited with creating American Sportswear and was famous for her matching sets.

The Catskills Jacket is the perfect cropped jacket with grown-on sleeves. The bias cut makes it drape beautifully and I love the roomy feeling under the arms. I can throw this on over a dress and it will be perfect as a layering piece in the warmer months. I don’t deal with the cold well and that includes the air-conditioning that everyone ramps up in the summer!

This beautiful fabric was given to me by a lady who was gifted it about thirty years ago. She heard that I did some sewing and she wanted me to have it. We think it might be silk satin but can’t be a hundred percent sure. Unfortunately, there had been some damage to the fabric due to its time in storage. Some of the threads had pulled on something so there were patches which I had to cut around. It was also very narrow at 90cm. She thought that perhaps the fabric might have been good for cushion covers but I felt I could use it for the Catskills Jacket. Due to the bounciness and thickness of the fabric, I couldn’t use the French seam instructions but instead finished the seams with an overlocker. I also had to do a fair bit of hand sewing to finish the facing.

Sizing of the jacket was very accurate. I made the size 10 for my measurements of 37-inch bust and 33-inch waist. I’ve chosen to sew the ¾ sleeves as it will be used in the warmer months. The pattern allows for a choice between five buttons with thread loops or eight hooks and eyes. I had some red frog fastenings but after some discussion on my Instagram, I decided the colour was a mismatch for the fabric. I’ve decided to leave off any closures as I’m not likely to need to do up the jacket when worn. I choose to reserve judgement but with the fabric it’s easier to attach buttons later than remove them.

I can’t wait to share my make with the lady who gifted me this beautiful fabric. I am blown away that it could turn into something so gorgeous. It has also made me more determined to sew up my fabric stash and make the most of them while they are in good condition as I’m in the habit of storing my “special” fabrics rather than sewing them up.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

True Bias Dani Pants

When I first started sewing, I jumped in headfirst into sewing the Flint Pants from Megan Nielsen Pattern. It turned out quite badly, I got the sizing wrong, had no idea about grading a pattern and ended up recycling the whole thing. A sewing friend consoled me, and she said that sewing trousers is something you should work up to. So, I’m really thrilled that I’ve completed something like the Dani Pants. I feel like I’ve learnt a lot from making this pattern.

There are a few versions of the Dani. It can be made as shorts or pants and it can be fully elasticated or have a zip front. I opted for the zip front because I really want to practice this for making jeans. I still have a lot of room for improvement when it comes to installing the zip fly. The zip front is still a bit of a puzzle because my zip guard doesn’t completely match my fly shield and left front. Luckily my waistband still fits but I will need to revise and hopefully my next attempt at this works out better.

My sizing was spot on. No modifications or grading were needed. I sewed the size 12 for my waist measurement of 33 inches and hip measurement of 40 inches. I did have to shorten the hem by 4 inches for my height of 5 foot 7 (167cm). I love a partial elasticated waist as the fit is a bit forgiving.

The pattern calls for medium weight woven fabrics. I found this beautiful brown linen/cotton blend. It’s very soft and not as stiff as pure linen. I find that brown is such a great neutral for me. I’m hoping to build a bit more of a capsule around these colours. I’m going to attempt another version of these because they are so comfortable, I can already tell that I’ll be constantly reaching for these. I also want to sew them again because I don’t feel that I’ve really mastered the pattern.

The written instructions and the illustrations are excellent in the pattern. I also used the sew along photos on the blog. I think my struggle with the pattern was that I was unfamiliar with how a zip fly should look at the end. I did end up inspecting one of my husband’s old trousers and don’t tell him, but I did unpick the fly shield a little bit to see where the zip should sit. I tend to install a lot of invisible zips, so I think that I installed my zip too far forward. I can’t quite figure where the zip teeth should be placed. Still confused to be honest.

The rest of the sew was smooth sailing. I love how the side seam pockets have a facing and I thought the method for installation were the best I’ve ever done. It’s so neat that none of the pocket bag shows when you sit down. The whole pattern is full of professional tips and techniques. I’m so impressed by the end result. I can’t quite believe that I’ve come so far in my sewing. The memory of that first pair of pants I made still makes me giggle.

Oh! Just a side note, do not inspect my buttonholes too closely. My machine usually does the whole thing automatically once it’s set but on that day, my thread broke a few times which meant that I had to rethread but then the machine has lost it’s place in the process. I prefer to do them manually but haven’t figured out a way to do that. It was a very frustrating and a lot of colourful language was used in the process!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em