fashion – Page 4 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Marigold Dress

I’ve been a long admirer and follower of Stitchmaiden Patterns but never brave enough to attempt a pattern because they look so technically hard. When Stitchmaiden reached out to me, I took it as a sign that it was time to stretch out of my comfort zone and I was so pleasantly surprised with the outcome.

Firstly, the pattern I chose was the Marigold Dress. Each pattern draws inspiration from a period in history. The Marigold is from the Romantic Academia Collection. It is a pattern that keeps on giving because of the multitude of combinations possible with just a switch of one or two features. There are three versions which are suggested for the seamstress. The basic concept is a square neckline with princess seams and a fitted waist. I chose the suggested Version A which has a slim fitted skirt, but I chose the butterfly sleeves from Version C, and I left off the ruffled hem. There is also a belt that is sewn in which I chose to keep.

Marigold Dress featuring fitted waist, square neckline with gathered bodice and butterfly sleeves.

With this many options, I thought that printing and putting together the pattern was going to be time consuming and difficult but there is a comprehensive table, and it made the whole process quick and painless. There are two ways to print the pattern, one is without the seam allowance and the other is with the seam allowance added. I’m more used to having my seam allowance included so that is the one I chose. This is where it got interesting for me … I mistook the sewing line for the cutting line. I had printed the size 42 and size 44 because I fell between those two sizes and needed to grade the pattern. In the end, I decided to only cut the size 44 and grade from there but as mentioned, I cut the sewing line! To make matters worse, I cut into my “good” fabric thinking I had enough seam allowance and ease with the larger size to then “fit” it once I had cut the fabric pieces.

The dress has an invisible zip closure, so I did the usual basting stitches on my side seam and basted my zip. Imagine my panic when I couldn’t zip up the dress and there was no amount of ease or seam allowance that could help! It really puzzled me for the afternoon then I went back to the pattern and thought I’d start again, and this time make a better toile. When I reprinted the pattern, I realised my mistake which was actually a relief! It was me, not the pattern.

Lesson learnt, I should never assume and always make a toile.

I chose the size 42 and 44 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I graded the bodice from the 42 to the 44 waist and hips. The dress is a tailored fit with moderate ease, and I felt that this worked well for me. When I make the dress again, I might adjust the princess seams as well.

Initially, I was going to use a beautifully printed linen but because of my mistake, that fabric will now be made into a dress for my daughter. Instead, I had this green crepe the chine which my husband bought me that I’ve been keeping for a special make. He bought me 5 meters of this fabric of which I’ve used about 3.5 meters. The crepe the chine is drapey and light which is beautiful to wear. It highlights the skirt, the gathered front and butterfly sleeves nicely. I actually think this fabric was a better match in the end.

The pattern comes with some of the most extensively detailed instructions and illustrations which are great to learn from, but they also provide a summarised set of instructions for the more experienced sewist. I used the detailed instructions and appreciated the two pages of Basic Workmanship which is great for those looking to extend their sewing repertoire.

Stitchmaiden Patterns have a vintage vibe and draw inspiration from history but they really are timeless classics. This will be a dress that transcends passing trends and I’ll be wearing it time and time again. It’s a pattern that can be changed easily with so many mix and match options, so it is a “TNT” (tried and true) pattern for me. Oh! And another thing, please now refer to me as Stitchmaiden Emily.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

* This pattern was provided for a review with no obligation for a blog post.

Valentine Ruffle Top

This is the latest pattern from Peppermint Magazine in collaboration with their sewing partner Spoonflower. The pattern is a romantic, ruffle blouse. It can be worn on or off the shoulder. We used to call this a “peasant blouse” in the 80s but I’m not sure if that term is still used. There’s no buttonholes or zips. It’s a pull over your head blouse with the elastic all around the top of the top. The pattern is offered with a subscription to the magazine or downloadable from the website with a pay-what-you-can option.

The pattern is drafted for woven fabric. I decided to use two remnant pieces from my stash and combined a broderie anglaise with a cotton slub which were both in white. I was pretty happy with the outcome but there is quite a lot of volume in the bodice. In fact, I was quite worried when I was making the top that I had printed the wrong size. Next time, I would choose an even thinner and drapier fabric like rayon, viscose or georgette.

My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, fitted the size F. The most important measurement is the bust measurement as there is a lot of ease with the waist size and the hip measurement isn’t really relevant. I increased the elastic length from 73.4cm to 100cm because I found that the original length would not allow me to wear the blouse off the shoulder. This is all included in the pattern instructions.

So, did I need to worry about the fit of the blouse? Not really! Once the elastic goes in, the blouse magically shrinks to the right size. As a compulsive overthinker, I find it difficult to trust the process. Sewing has been good for me and has taught me to be better at having a go. I also need to take more breaks in my sewing. I think I reached that stage of the elastic casing, and the illustrations were not making any sense to me. It was a good place to stop and everything made perfect sense when I returned to it the next day.

I’m really happy with how it’s turned out. I had a peasant blouse when I was in Grade 6. I wore that blouse everywhere. Now I get to recreate it with this pattern! It’s a great pattern for a beginner and the instructions are good to follow. I’ve styled with my Vanessa Hansen Carrie Skirt and the ELOH patterns Sorrento Shorts. It’s an easy piece to style. I wonder if I could hack it into a playsuit?

This is my official last pattern for 2024! I am looking forward to some down time with family. I’m excited to make some plans for 2025 but I’ll share those in a separate blog post. Thanks so much if you’ve been following my sewing journey.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Frankie Tankie

Featuring Fabric from the Maaidesign Artist Collection

I’ve always wanted to come back to sew the Vanessa Hansen Frankie Tankie and with summer coming around it was perfect timing when Maaidesign sent me a preview sample from their Artist Collection. The Maaidesign Artist Collection features three talented designers; Jessica Neilsen, Jennifer Bouron and RouCouCou. The collection features these beautiful designs in three premium fabric bases. They include super smooth cotton lawn, soft cotton jersey and drapey viscose twill. There are no pre-launch orders available so the best way to make sure that you don’t miss out is to subscribe to the Maaidesign newsletter! Maaidesign have set their launch date for the 5th of December but it is best to keep an eye out with a subscription to their newsletter.

My little piece is called Messy flowers by Jennifer Bouron in a super smooth cotton lawn. It is beautifully lightweight and luxuriously smooth to feel. Maaidesign cotton lawn feels very silky and drapey. It’s woven at a very high thread count giving it that luxurious quality. This lightweight fabric is perfect for summer blouses and dresses.

As usual, I started my sew with preparing the fabric. I do this by washing the fabric on a cold cycle , air drying and finishing with an iron because cotton lawn is one hundred percent cotton. There was no shrinkage or loss of colour in the fabric which is what I would expect of good quality fabric. I then prepared my machine by swapping to a 70/10 gage needle on my machine which I feel suits the lightweight fabric (80gsm) and the finer needle prevents snagging the finer fabric.

The Frankie Tankie can be sewn as a double-sided blouse or with a facing. I’ve chosen the facing option. I used a white cotton muslin for the facing. I had about one meter of the super smooth cotton lawn. It is quite wide in width at 150cm, so it was sufficient for the Frankie Tankie. My measurements of 38-inch bust, and 33-inch waist fell into the size 12 but the pattern does run a little big so I could have also comfortably fitted into the size 10. The top is a cropped length, but I did lengthen the top by 2cm because I wanted to have the choice of tucking it in or wearing it out.

Vanessa Hansen Frankie Tankie worn with True Bias Mave Skirt

Maaike and the Maaidesign team have really curated the best quality fabric which is great when you’re buying online. I feel that it’s easy to trust that you’re going to get the best for your sewing projects. So excited for this launch of the Maaidesign Artist Collection! Messy Flowers by Jennifer Bouron is a beautiful bold abstract print. She is a designer that is known for her beautiful bold prints and illustrations, and I’ve been a great admirer for a long time. I’m so happy that Maaidesign have made it easy for Sewists to find these beautifully designed fabrics in one place. A blog post was not a requirement for receiving this fabric but I really wanted to share!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Fiske Pajama Set

Cashmerette released the Fiske Sleepwear Set which was packed full of options. There is a camisole and nightgown, there is also the classic pajama set with nightshirt option and to top it all, a gown as well. This time, I chose to sew the Fiske nightshirt with pajama shorts. Even within the set, it came with a lot of options. The detail I was most interested trying was the piping.

The pajama set is made for woven fabric, so I was looking for something comfortable for sleepwear. I was drawn to this XL gingham from Spotlight Stores. It’s 100 percent cotton and softly lightweight. It did add a degree of challenge with the pattern matching but I really enjoyed taking the time cutting and thinking about pattern placement. Sewing mindfully is something I try to do so even though it added to the difficulty, it also adds to the enjoyment of the project. My tip with pattern matching is to make sure you buy a little bit more fabric than suggested. My fabric width was 114cm and I bought 3 meters. I think I ended up using 2.5m for the nightshirt and used the rest to sew up the pajama shorts without cuffs.

I’ve sewn quite a few Cashmerette Patterns now so I can judge my sizing quite easily. There is a Cashmerette Sizing Tool available, and I used this consistently when I first started sewing their patterns. For my nightshirt, I chose to make the size 10 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and I made the size 12 for the pyjama shorts (33-inch waist and 40-inch hips). Both fit very comfortably and I find them both true to size.

The instructions were easy to follow and were both written and illustrated. There was only one point of confusion which was when I got to sewing the shorts. My waistband did not fit and was too long, so I ended up removing about 5cm from both waistbands which worked. I haven’t had a chance to check on the chat forums in Cashmerette Club. I have a feeling that the waistbands might have been made to fit the shorts with the stripe which I did not attach. On occasions like this, I really appreciate the club chat forum!

The piping was surprisingly easy to attach. The instructions were very detailed, and everything was outlined step by step, so I think this went a long way in making it easy for a beginner. I had a moment around the collar and lapel because I hadn’t run the piping far enough around the dot marked on the pattern piece. It’s all in the instructions so I just had to follow more carefully.

So happy to be adding this to my Cashmerette makes. I’ll be trying out the other options included in this pattern bundle soon. I’ve been making Cashmerette patterns for a while now and Cashmerette have generously provided their collaborators a discount link. If you’ve been planning to try out a sewing club, you can use my link to get a discount for yourself! Please see below for all the details.

The All Access level of Cashmerette Club is 25% off through November 30th. And if you sign up my special link, you can get 25% off All Access AND an extra special gift: a bonus free Cashmerette PDF pattern of your choice! Here’s how it works:

Go to cashmerette.com/emsewhappy and add the free gift to your cart. (This is an affiliate link. If you choose to make a purchase after clicking this link, I may receive a commission at no additional cost to you.)
Then go to cashmerette.com/club and add All Access to your cart
Complete the checkout and within a few minutes, you’ll receive an email with a coupon code that you can use for a free PDF pattern.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Ritual Dress

Featuring Fabric from the Devonstone Fashion Summer Abroad Collection by Lindsey Rae

So excited to feature the latest fabric collection from the immensely talented Lindsey Rae @sewtogrow. It’s currently available for wholesale through Devonstone Fashion. It was hard to pick which design I wanted but I settled on the Cornwall Oceanside Print in a luxe linen cotton blend. It is fifty-five percent linen and forty-five percent cotton, 180-185 gsm and 145cm wide. The pattern is reminiscent of wildflower fields. I love the riot of colour in this collection. Best of all, it will also be available in a variety of substrates like rayon, poplin, and jersey to name a few.

The pattern that immediately came to mind when I received the Cornwall Oceanside Print Linen was the Swimstyle Ritual Dress. I had bought this pattern last year but was waiting for the perfect fabric to match it. It’s basically a shirt dress but with the additional features of the drawstring waist casing in a maxi length. I haven’t had the opportunity to sew many collars and cuffs, so this was another consideration in my choice. The instructions for these are superb for entry level sewists.

Wearing it with waist cinched in and with it loose

As with any other sew, I washed the linen cotton on a cold cycle and popped it on the medium setting in the dryer. There was no noticeable shrinkage and no fading of the dye. I like how the addition of the cotton to the linen helps to reduce wrinkling and cuts down the time it takes to iron. I do appreciate that relaxed vibe that wrinkling in linen can give but I prefer to start wrinkle free and earn the wrinkles along the way.

Of course, I also checked my needle. I left it on the universal 90/14 gage needle that I had been using. I matched the fabric with the Gutermann CA 02776 thread. I’m not sure the colour of the print shows up in the photos, but the print consists of shadows of mauve flora on a background of green.

The Ritual Dress has quite a lot of ease in the pattern sizing, so I chose my usual Size L for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I did not make any modifications. My height is 167cm. I felt the pattern was true to size and fitted comfortably. Perhaps the sleeves could have been shortened slightly but I wanted to have the full-length sleeve and a properly maxi dress. I guess I’m great at sewing summer outfits, but I really need to make items that will see me through the cooler weather. I think this dress fits the bill nicely.

Ritual Dress in Cornwall Print Linen Cotton

The collar and cuff instructions were great if you lack experience in this area. It’s really made for novice level and can highly recommend it. The Summer Abroad linen cotton has been such a good quality fabric to sew with. It still has that slight stiffness that linen starts with so it feels a little bit course on the skin but that will soften with a few washes. I know that’s sometimes a concern with linen, but it really doesn’t take long for it to season to a soft and pliable garment.

Hopefully, the Summer Abroad collection will be available for purchase soon from your favourite fabric store! Currently, it’s available for wholesale through Devonstone Fashion. Keep your eyes out for it from the Sew To Grow newsletter.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Faux Collar Shirt

Sara Kim from Sewing Therapy Patterns has released another fantastic pattern! It’s the Faux Collar Oversized Button-Down Shirt or Dress. I was one of the testers for the pattern and chose to test the Crop Shirt version. There’s always a big rush to get on her testing team so I was grateful to be chosen.

This pattern features the faux collar which attaches only to the front of the shirt. It is comfortably oversized without sacrificing style. The cropped version stops at the natural waist which is perfect for pairing with my high waisted skirts or pants. It is also a button down with an inverted pleat at the back which gives a slight flared shape. This pattern is feature packed and this is only one of the versions!

As with any pattern test, there are some adjustments made along the way. I enjoyed the pattern as it was, so I made the test version twice. I made the size 12 without any modifications for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips.

My first version was made using this colourful cotton batiste fabric which was beautifully sheer and lightweight.

Everything went smoothly with the test and the pattern instructions were great. Sara always includes videos at some stage during the test. These are usually abridged versions, but we watch and help test those as well. I had finished my test in time and was happy to send off my fit and styled photos. So, it was a shock to me to receive a message from Sara asking me if I might have accidentally sewn my sleeves upside down! I immediately ran off to check my photos and sure enough, they are flared so I had in fact attached them upside down. Sara was very gracious, and we both had a giggle. She immediately went to include markings on the sleeve pattern to help the 1% of sewers like me. This is why she is so good to test for!

I decided to sew the pattern again with the sleeves as intended by the pattern. This time I used a plain sage coloured linen-lyocell fabric. It’s slightly heavier than the batiste I used but drapier. Lyocell is beautifully soft, lightweight, absorbent and a bit more wrinkle resistant that pure linen. My choice was mainly influenced by the fluid drape of this fabric. Again, I made the Crop Faux Collar Shirt in the size 12 without any modifications, this time attaching the sleeves correctly! In fact, the sleeves can be interchanged with other Sewing Therapy patterns like the Tie Dress or the Infit Pattern.

It feels great to be testing again. I really enjoyed the process and was so excited to share the fantastic new pattern from Sewing Therapy.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Billow Sleeve Knit

It’s taken me awhile to sit and write the review of the Swimstyle Billow Sleeve Knit* because I was tempted to start sewing another one straight away. However, the weather is warming up, so I’ll give it a break before making another version. I really admire the very organised sewists that plan their sewing according to the seasons. I can’t seem to keep up and it ends up frustrating me, so I don’t even try!

The sleeves are what drew me to this pattern. I decided on the cropped version with the regular neckline. There is also a longer version which I think would suit a lighter knit. I managed to score this dusky rose ribbed knit from my local fabric store. It is the perfect match for this pattern. It’s very soft and cozy to wear.

As with my other Swimstyle makes, I chose to sew the size L for my measurements of 38-inch bust and 33-inch waist. The sizing has been impressively consistent, so I didn’t bother with a toile. This saves me so much in fabric. It’s great to have a pattern that is so reliable.

Knit fabric has been a challenge that I wanted to try and master this year. I had some issues with my hem. It’s always the smallest things that give the biggest, unexpected challenge in a project. I had to reach out to the sewing community online and as usual, everyone was so generous with their advice. The first time I tried to sew my hem, it became wavy and looked awful.

The tips that were given to me included:

Use a ball point needle and use a zig zag stitch (2 Length: 2.5 Width), which I did.
I found the fabric pieces slipped a bit so I’m hoping to invest in a walking foot next time.
Someone suggested that I stabilise the hems and shoulder seams with clear elastic or knit interfacing. I think I’ve seen something on the True Bias Website which might help.
Another tip I learnt from someone was that if the serger is stretching the fabric out, you can turn the differential feed higher to avoid that (to avoid that wavy hem).

To resolve the issue, I unpicked my hem and resewed it with a twin needle. It needed a bit of steam and a press to regain its shape.

So glad that I’m part of a generous community and it’s made it so much easier for me to progress my sewing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Gifted as part of the Swimstyle Ambassador Program but all opinions remain my own.

Ele Skirt

It’s been a minute and a half since I’ve sat down to do some sewing. I decided that when my all my kids finally graduated from school, I would treat myself to extending some of my own education. It turned out to be extremely challenging but satisfying and was happy to pass my course. I’ve had to turn off all my social media just to concentrate and avoid the temptation to sit at my sewing machine. Now finally, I’m happy to be back sewing. I realised that I have come to rely on sewing to relax and decompress.

The pattern I chose to sew first was the Sewing Therapy Ele Skirt. I got it when it launched and it’s the perfect skirt weather with our weather warming into spring. It was a relatively quick sew and has great instructions. Again, Sara keeps all her instructions concise but detailed. She also includes great sew along videos on YouTube which I did watch.

I like the Ele skirt design of the flat front and elasticated back waistband. It’s more comfortable these days to wear items that have a bit of flexibility in the waistband. Hands up fellow endo sufferers and perimenopausal women. I want structure but comfort, if that makes sense. The fit is true to size. I made the size 12 with no modifications. My measurements are 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. The pattern advises using the hip measurements to choose your sizing.

The fabric I’ve used is a 100% cotton lightweight poplin. Even though I have largely stopped shopping ready to wear, I sometimes pop into Uniqlo to browse and I really love that style of shirt-fabric skirts that they stock. I’m happy with the choice except for a minor hiccup when I discovered that the narrow fabric did not fit the skirt’s pattern piece. To compensate, I trimmed the pattern piece and took a wedge off without affecting the hip or waist measurements. I’ll need to be more careful to find a wider piece of fabric when I make it again.

The pocket construction was one of my favourite features of the pattern as well as the list of options for the front pleats. I chose to make the big, inverted pleats but there was also a gathered option, knife pleats, reversed knife pleats. It’s fun when a pattern can be customised to your liking. The pockets are large enough to fit you hand and phone. Very useful indeed!

Another successful pattern from Sewing Therapy. I’m embracing neutrals and solid colours currently. I’m trying to make things that would match and balance out my more colourful, patterned makes.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Winter Weekend Getaway Wardrobe

Margaret River is a short drive from Perth in Western Australia which makes it an ideal destination for a weekend getaway. It’s such a beautiful region with so much to see and do but the goal of this getaway was to do less and reset after several very hectic few months. Forest bathing amongst the giant gum trees works wonders for the mind and the blood pressure.

It’s currently winter so I decided to be very practical in my packing. We did have a slow lunch booked at a winery which meant that my outfit had to be good for walking but dressy enough for the venue that we were lunching at. Before leaving for the trip, I managed to finish sewing two versions of the Swimstyle High Waist Pants* which I wore on the first day. We were staying in town, which was great for walking around town, visiting some of the unique shops in Margaret River Town. The highlight was finding Margaret River Artisan Store which is run by a cooperative of local artists. We also picked up some delicious goodies to bring home to share the taste of Margaret River with our family from Vasse Virgin and another favourite was dropping into Margaret River Bookshop for a few new books. There are so many boutique stores to explore but we had to head out to lunch.

Lunch was at Xanadu Wineries which is one of the more established wineries in the region. I would highly recommend booking for any of the venues before going as it gets very busy. I’m glad I paired my High Waist Pants with my Jarrah Jumper and had a cardigan with me.

I also packed my Nova Jacket which I was grateful for as the temperature dropped and there was an icy wind blowing by the time we had finished out slow long lunch. A trip to Margaret River is not complete without popping into Voyager Estate.

We headed back to our accommodation for a rest and to change before heading out to dinner at Swings and Roundabout. Another fabulous venue but book ahead or risk missing out. The temperature was considerably cooler by nighttime, so I was glad that I had packed my Dawn Jeans. I wore it with my Alea Blouse (this pattern was a collaboration between Sewlala Patterns and Marsha Style). Sorry, no photos in situ but popped some old photos below. I think the key is to layer up as often venues are quite well heated interiorly but getting to and from the venue can be wet and cold.

Our last day started with pastries and coffee at the beautiful self-contained unit we were staying in. The sun was streaming in, and the air warmed to a beautiful 20 degrees.

I decided to wear the denim version of my High Waist Pants with the Brattle Top. I only needed to throw on a lightweight cardigan for the rest of the day. We were driving back to Perth with a detour to Wild Hop Brewery. This came highly recommended from friends, and we were glad that we had followed the recommendation to book the Rotisserie Chicken as well. It was a worthwhile detour!

Most of these items were made well ahead of time. I’m glad that my wardrobe is slowly filling with my handmade items.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Pattern gifted as part of Ambassador Program but all opinions remain my own.

High Waist Pants

Sewing my first pair of jeans has now got me on a roll for sewing fitted pants. I feel that a lot of fear for sewing pants comes from fit issues. Well, at least that is the case for me. I thought this would be a good pattern to try because the fit is determined by a series of darts and pleats without a waistband. I also love the pattern for its classic tailored silhouette. As a Swimstyle Patterns Ambassador, I am gifted with the pattern, but all opinions remain my own.

This pattern is designed for lightweight woven fabrics, so I picked up a denim Tencel fabric which has smooth drape. I was a bit naughty and did not toile this pattern. I would usually have sewn the shorts version first but it’s winter here and I wanted to sew something I could start wearing straight away. The other reason I didn’t toile was because the darts and pleats can be adjusted to fit the waist. The wide leg style of the pants means there is quite a lot of ease which is easier to adjust. The bonus of the generous 5/8-inch seam allowance is that it’s more forgiving when trying to fit a pattern the first time.

In the other Swimstyle Patterns that I’ve sewn, I have found the drafting true to size. My measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips means that my size falls between L and XL. I decided to sew the L and to adjust the seams if needed. In the end, I did not have to make any adjustments, and the L fitted me perfectly. The pattern does include belt loops which helps with sizing when you’re wearing the pants, but I can happily wear the pants without a belt. My only adjustment was the length of the pants. I shortened the pattern by 3 inches. This was done by trimming 3 inches from the bottom of the pants.

The sewing went smoothly with the fantastic instructions. Until the end. I realised when I was doing the final press of the pants that my front knife pleats were facing the wrong way! They were facing centre front rather than towards the side seams. It was an unfortunate time to find this mistake because I was out of motivation, I had already packed everything away and I could not face having to unpick the waist facing and trying to reattach it. The consequence of this mistake is that the front doesn’t fall the right way when I sit. I am not too bothered by it and will still wear my pants, but I will make sure I correct this in my next iteration of the pattern. My next pair of this will be in linen.

I’m so happy to finally have the confidence to sew pants. I was doing a happy dance with the installation of my invisible zip. I used to be so afraid of zips especially invisible zips, but I have worked out my favourite method which works for me. I’m so glad that I jumped in and I’m looking forward to sewing more pants.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em