Sewing my first pair of jeans has now got me on a roll for sewing fitted pants. I feel that a lot of fear for sewing pants comes from fit issues. Well, at least that is the case for me. I thought this would be a good pattern to try because the fit is determined by a series of darts and pleats without a waistband. I also love the pattern for its classic tailored silhouette. As a Swimstyle Patterns Ambassador, I am gifted with the pattern, but all opinions remain my own.
This pattern is designed for lightweight woven fabrics, so I picked up a denim Tencel fabric which has smooth drape. I was a bit naughty and did not toile this pattern. I would usually have sewn the shorts version first but it’s winter here and I wanted to sew something I could start wearing straight away. The other reason I didn’t toile was because the darts and pleats can be adjusted to fit the waist. The wide leg style of the pants means there is quite a lot of ease which is easier to adjust. The bonus of the generous 5/8-inch seam allowance is that it’s more forgiving when trying to fit a pattern the first time.
In the other Swimstyle Patterns that I’ve sewn, I have found the drafting true to size. My measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips means that my size falls between L and XL. I decided to sew the L and to adjust the seams if needed. In the end, I did not have to make any adjustments, and the L fitted me perfectly. The pattern does include belt loops which helps with sizing when you’re wearing the pants, but I can happily wear the pants without a belt. My only adjustment was the length of the pants. I shortened the pattern by 3 inches. This was done by trimming 3 inches from the bottom of the pants.
The sewing went smoothly with the fantastic instructions. Until the end. I realised when I was doing the final press of the pants that my front knife pleats were facing the wrong way! They were facing centre front rather than towards the side seams. It was an unfortunate time to find this mistake because I was out of motivation, I had already packed everything away and I could not face having to unpick the waist facing and trying to reattach it. The consequence of this mistake is that the front doesn’t fall the right way when I sit. I am not too bothered by it and will still wear my pants, but I will make sure I correct this in my next iteration of the pattern. My next pair of this will be in linen.
I’m so happy to finally have the confidence to sew pants. I was doing a happy dance with the installation of my invisible zip. I used to be so afraid of zips especially invisible zips, but I have worked out my favourite method which works for me. I’m so glad that I jumped in and I’m looking forward to sewing more pants.
Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
X Em
Em Sew Happy Blog 