True Bias Dani Pants

Me Made May has gone by in a flash this year! This year, I decided to record what I was wearing every day in a one take video which I shared to my Instagram Stories and saved in my Highlights. It is a very successful exercise which I use to review what I’m making every year. I realised that even though I am drawn to making dresses, my daily wear mainly consists of pants and shirts. Of all the pants that I was wearing, I found that I liked the True Bias Dani Pants for the style and the fit the best. So, for my upcoming travels, I decided to make three pairs. One in denim, one in a stretch drill and one in linen using Version D of the pattern.

My very first pair which I made a couple of years ago was a linen version. I’ve worn it so much, but I felt that the linen I used was not the right weight and I can see some wear around the zip and seat area. This time, using version B again, I went for a 9oz weight denim which is lightweight enough to cope with the elasticised waistband but gave good structure to withstand the zip and button front. The buttons are jean buttons that were leftovers from making my Dawn Jeans.

This was also why I chose a khaki stretch drill for the second version. I love how soft this stretch drill feels. It was a real bargain find at my local spotlight store with only $10 per meter, the fabric only cost $30 which is pretty good for a pair of pants these days. Something I didn’t do with the stretch drill which might be a bit controversial is that I didn’t wash it before sewing. I only washed it after. I felt that the stretch in the drill, even though light, made the fabric less structured. I didn’t want to change the sizing for the pants, and I knew that I would be throwing these into the dryer with washing, so I didn’t mind if the fit was on a slight looser side to begin with. I’m not saying that it was a whole size bigger, but it was a loose size 12 and after washing and putting in the dryer, it has stiffened up to the perfect fit for me.

The final version was made with a drapey linen. This time I did wash the linen and popped it in the dryer before sewing. It really softened up the linen beautifully. I decided to make Version D which eliminates the button fly and zip. It has a full elasticated waistband. I thought that with travelling, it’s always good to have something you can pull on quickly that still looks smart. I loved adding the cuff and pockets to this.

When I first made the Dani Pants, I found the zip fly quite difficult. It’s nice to come back to a pattern after two years to find that I can now confidently install a zipper and the zip fly easily. I could understand the instructions a lot better now that I’ve had more experience sewing. Slowly and without me realising, my sewing skills have been improving. It’s a happy discovery. I feel so grateful to pattern makers like True Bias who have put so much detail and effort into their patterns which have helped self-taught sewers like me to gain these skills.

There’s nothing like a bit of last-minute sewing to add to the excitement for an upcoming trip. It’s funny how packing for a trip now includes a bit of last-minute makes. I should also mention that all my pants were made in the size 12, shortened by 2 inches for my measurements of 33-inch waist, 40-inch hips and 164cm height.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

When I first started sewing, I jumped in headfirst into sewing the Flint Pants from Megan Nielsen Pattern. It turned out quite badly, I got the sizing wrong, had no idea about grading a pattern and ended up recycling the whole thing. A sewing friend consoled me, and she said that sewing trousers is something you should work up to. So, I’m really thrilled that I’ve completed something like the Dani Pants. I feel like I’ve learnt a lot from making this pattern.

There are a few versions of the Dani. It can be made as shorts or pants and it can be fully elasticated or have a zip front. I opted for the zip front because I really want to practice this for making jeans. I still have a lot of room for improvement when it comes to installing the zip fly. The zip front is still a bit of a puzzle because my zip guard doesn’t completely match my fly shield and left front. Luckily my waistband still fits but I will need to revise and hopefully my next attempt at this works out better.

My sizing was spot on. No modifications or grading were needed. I sewed the size 12 for my waist measurement of 33 inches and hip measurement of 40 inches. I did have to shorten the hem by 4 inches for my height of 5 foot 7 (167cm). I love a partial elasticated waist as the fit is a bit forgiving.

The pattern calls for medium weight woven fabrics. I found this beautiful brown linen/cotton blend. It’s very soft and not as stiff as pure linen. I find that brown is such a great neutral for me. I’m hoping to build a bit more of a capsule around these colours. I’m going to attempt another version of these because they are so comfortable, I can already tell that I’ll be constantly reaching for these. I also want to sew them again because I don’t feel that I’ve really mastered the pattern.

The written instructions and the illustrations are excellent in the pattern. I also used the sew along photos on the blog. I think my struggle with the pattern was that I was unfamiliar with how a zip fly should look at the end. I did end up inspecting one of my husband’s old trousers and don’t tell him, but I did unpick the fly shield a little bit to see where the zip should sit. I tend to install a lot of invisible zips, so I think that I installed my zip too far forward. I can’t quite figure where the zip teeth should be placed. Still confused to be honest.

The rest of the sew was smooth sailing. I love how the side seam pockets have a facing and I thought the method for installation were the best I’ve ever done. It’s so neat that none of the pocket bag shows when you sit down. The whole pattern is full of professional tips and techniques. I’m so impressed by the end result. I can’t quite believe that I’ve come so far in my sewing. The memory of that first pair of pants I made still makes me giggle.

Oh! Just a side note, do not inspect my buttonholes too closely. My machine usually does the whole thing automatically once it’s set but on that day, my thread broke a few times which meant that I had to rethread but then the machine has lost it’s place in the process. I prefer to do them manually but haven’t figured out a way to do that. It was a very frustrating and a lot of colourful language was used in the process!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

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A Trio of Dani Pants