True Bias Pattern – Em Sew Happy Blog

Ayla Pants

Sewing with knit fabric has always been an area that I find challenging. Initially, I believed I could simply steer clear of it, but as my sewing experience grew, I realised I would be missing out on many wonderful and comfortable additions to my handmade wardrobe. The Ayla Pants is the latest release from True Bias, and I’ve been lucky enough to be invited onto the testing team. It’s the perfect entry level knit garment to sew.

The Ayla Pants are wide leg, pull-on knit pants. There are two views, and I chose to sew View A which does not have the seam down the front and back leg pieces that View B has. It’s a very quick sew because there are only two pattern pieces and the waistband folds down from those pieces.

Knit fabric is still quite a mystery to me but I think the pattern really breaks down what sort of knit fabric to look for. There is a stretch ruler and a list of the types of knits that would suit the project. I found an olive-green Ponte which feels so soft to wear. It’s a thick double-knit fabric which is firmer, thicker and more stable than other knit fabrics. I think my choice of fabric is quite good for a more casual look so next time I would like to explore something for a dressier look, perhaps in black.

I chose to change my needle to a ball-point needle and sewed mine on my sewing machine and then used the overlocker to finish my seams, but it would be fine to use the overlocker throughout. I used the sewing machine with the instructed stitch lengths, and it really worked well! I also like to sew on the machine first in case I had to make any adjustments. Speaking of adjustments, I sewed the instructions as is and as this was a tester, I did not make any adjustments. I like to show the piece as drafted by the designer unless they have explicitly instructed us to change it. I think this gives clearer feedback. There has been a slight adjustment to the rise based on everyone’s feedback which is great because I’ve always found True Bias Patterns are very reliable on their sizing.

The size I tested was the size 12 which is my standard for True Bias. For my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, I found the pattern was true to size. I did give some feedback about where the waist landed for me. Again, True Bias always gets the pattern to a high standard before sending it out for testing which makes it so easy. The instructions were faultless. Illustrations were also included step by step which really helps a visual learner like me.

Although knit fabric sewing is still more challenging to me than sewing wovens, I’m glad I’m over my fear-avoidant phase when it comes to sewing knit. Knits are comfortable and easy to wear due to the stretch and flexibility of the material. It’s also durable and easy to wash and wear without needing to iron!

The Ayla Pants is such a stylish and comfortable pair of pants which can easily be dressed up or down. The wide leg design means that it can be worn with boots in winter or it can be easily paired with chunky sneakers and a tee for summer. I’m really looking forward to wearing this. Most importantly, I’m gaining valuable sewing experience because of fantastic resources that patterns like this provide for home sewists.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Nova Coat for Frocktails

Still recovering from Frocktails 2025 which is an annual gathering of sewing enthusiasts and is hosted in many different locations around the world. It was a fun night of delightful sewing banter, finally meeting familiar faces from social media in real life and getting to fondle a lot of fabric (with permission of course!).

The process of making or thinking about what to wear for the night started many months back. I wasn’t specifically thinking about Frocktails at the time, it was just that my growing hoard of sewing scraps had been bugging me, and my husband had cleaned out his closet and found some old pairs of jeans that were not fit for donating. I think there was also a sewing challenge based around upcycling that started me down this path.

I was initially planning on only using the denim to make another Papercut Nova Coat. In this version, I wanted to make the shorter version and size down a few sizes. I have a lovely long wool version, but I’ve always needed something in a lighter weight for the in-between seasons. As mentioned, I was trying to complete a sewing challenge, but inspiration and motivation was lacking as I started to cut into the denim. So, I stopped. I’m glad I did because I don’t think I would have achieved something that I love as much as the jacket I’ve ended up with.

After a pause of another couple of months, I started to envision the jacket I wanted. I have a lovely memory of my friend Hiromi, who gave me a gift in a box that she had covered in little bits and pieces of washi paper. The gift was a beautifully folded crane, but I fell in love with the box that housed it. Each piece was thoughtfully placed but irregular. There were no regular shapes, yet it felt cohesive. To my ten-year-old eyes, it was like a multifaced piece of jewellery. I wanted my jacket to have that thoughtful but irregular placement using my scraps, but I wanted to ground the scraps with pieces of denim so that the eyes have something to rest on like an outline in a painting.

Once inspiration struck, it was easy to work out what to do next. I started by reprinting my Nova Coat pattern pieces. Last time, I had sized down from a size 4 to a size 3. I went down another two sizes to the size 1. The main consideration is the bust measurement, the sleeve length and the length of the coat. I was sewing the shorter version. The finished garment measurements are so helpful and accurate. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips.

The next thing I had to work out was how to place and secure my scrap pieces. Since I wasn’t making traditional quilting blocks, I decided to cut a “base” for the scraps to rest on. If you’re cringing at my lack of technical knowledge as an expert quilter, I am putting a disclaimer here that I have no experience in quilting. Do not use this as a tutorial. Mine was a joyfully creative process. Once I had the pattern pieces cut out of an old bedsheet, I could place and sew on my pieces. I made sure everything was irregular but was cohesive with the colours and contrast I was trying to create. I cut the side back panels, and pocket pieces directly from my upcycled denim without needing to sew them onto a base. It was then easy to sew everything as instructed. The Nova Jacket is fully lined. I used another old sheet for this lining. The beauty of using old sheets is that everything is so soft from being washed in.

The jacket matched my True Bias Quinn Dress which I wore for the night. I was so happy with the outcome and comfortable on the night. I’ve found this process of using my sewing scraps to be fun and creative. It’s quite an addictive process and I made the Motif Studio Origami bag using the same process. I’ll be searching for more ways to use up my scraps. I’m glad that I’ve been keeping everything, no matter how small. It’s also a lovely reminder of all my past projects.

It was so inspiring to see the beautiful outfits but also to be in a space where women support women. Lots of compliments and chatter about outfits and fabric. There was a man who came along and kudos because he won best dressed! It was an inclusive space which felt welcoming. I’ll definitely be marking it in my diary for next year.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Quinn Dress

It’s been so exciting to collaborate* with True Bias this year. I have been sewing their patterns for a long time and I was thrilled to be invited to test for them. Especially since this is a dress that I would have rushed to put in my shopping cart. The Quinn dress is based on the design of the vest but taken to 4 lengths. There is the cropped length, the mid-hip length, a short dress and the midi dress. I chose to sew the midi dress. The pattern features a princess seam, V-neck, button placket, and has the vest tie in the back which lets you cinch in a little at the waist.

I chose to sew the Size 12 for my measurement of 38-inch Full Bust, 33-inch Waist, 40-inch Hips. An upper bust measurement is included in the pattern which is important for a princess seam. There is also mention of height in the pattern. I did not need to make any adjustments. I’m 5’6” in height and liked where the dress ended on me. The pattern was true to size for me.

The feature that I’ve come to know True Bias Patterns for is their neat finishing. The dress was not lined but it used a combination of bias binding and facings. This included the hem of the dress which means that everything is perfectly clean and neat.

The pattern is for woven fabrics. I used a maroon-coloured linen-cotton. It was quite a lightweight linen which is so comfortable in summer and the hotter months. I would love to sew one in denim and make the stitching a feature of the design. Again, with the built-in facings and finishing instructions, this would be the perfect dress for some featured topstitching.

There is a vest tie on the back panels of the dress. I managed to find a vest sliding buckle, unfortunately not very pretty. I was hoping to get a different colour but with my next make, I would try a few more stores. There is also online but they always sell these things by bulk.

Testing went very smoothly, and I really enjoyed the whole process. I really enjoy the way True Bias set out their instructions which include very good illustrations. I feel like this is a short review because all the pieces fit. I did a quick toile with my marron linen in my usual way of basting all the main pieces together to check the fit. I’ve been toiling this way for a while now and find that I can save on cutting into “toiling fabric”. This comes with a quick disclaimer that I am very familiar with True Bias patterns and have worked out my sizing from past makes. This is probably why it’s good to sew a few patterns from the same pattern drafter.

Once the last button was sewn, I excitedly tried it out for a long lunch with my husband. It’s very comfortable to wear and there were no issues sitting for a lovely lunch. It’s also a way to repay my husband for all his help with the photography!

On a more personal note, I’ve really enjoyed participating in pattern tests this year. I decided that since my kids are transitioning into independent young adults, I would use my spare time to indulge in my sewing this year. Happy to still be needed but also grateful to regain a bit more time!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Pattern was gifted and paid for testing with no obligation to post. All opinions remain my own.

True Bias Dani Pants

When I first started sewing, I jumped in headfirst into sewing the Flint Pants from Megan Nielsen Pattern. It turned out quite badly, I got the sizing wrong, had no idea about grading a pattern and ended up recycling the whole thing. A sewing friend consoled me, and she said that sewing trousers is something you should work up to. So, I’m really thrilled that I’ve completed something like the Dani Pants. I feel like I’ve learnt a lot from making this pattern.

There are a few versions of the Dani. It can be made as shorts or pants and it can be fully elasticated or have a zip front. I opted for the zip front because I really want to practice this for making jeans. I still have a lot of room for improvement when it comes to installing the zip fly. The zip front is still a bit of a puzzle because my zip guard doesn’t completely match my fly shield and left front. Luckily my waistband still fits but I will need to revise and hopefully my next attempt at this works out better.

My sizing was spot on. No modifications or grading were needed. I sewed the size 12 for my waist measurement of 33 inches and hip measurement of 40 inches. I did have to shorten the hem by 4 inches for my height of 5 foot 7 (167cm). I love a partial elasticated waist as the fit is a bit forgiving.

The pattern calls for medium weight woven fabrics. I found this beautiful brown linen/cotton blend. It’s very soft and not as stiff as pure linen. I find that brown is such a great neutral for me. I’m hoping to build a bit more of a capsule around these colours. I’m going to attempt another version of these because they are so comfortable, I can already tell that I’ll be constantly reaching for these. I also want to sew them again because I don’t feel that I’ve really mastered the pattern.

The written instructions and the illustrations are excellent in the pattern. I also used the sew along photos on the blog. I think my struggle with the pattern was that I was unfamiliar with how a zip fly should look at the end. I did end up inspecting one of my husband’s old trousers and don’t tell him, but I did unpick the fly shield a little bit to see where the zip should sit. I tend to install a lot of invisible zips, so I think that I installed my zip too far forward. I can’t quite figure where the zip teeth should be placed. Still confused to be honest.

The rest of the sew was smooth sailing. I love how the side seam pockets have a facing and I thought the method for installation were the best I’ve ever done. It’s so neat that none of the pocket bag shows when you sit down. The whole pattern is full of professional tips and techniques. I’m so impressed by the end result. I can’t quite believe that I’ve come so far in my sewing. The memory of that first pair of pants I made still makes me giggle.

Oh! Just a side note, do not inspect my buttonholes too closely. My machine usually does the whole thing automatically once it’s set but on that day, my thread broke a few times which meant that I had to rethread but then the machine has lost it’s place in the process. I prefer to do them manually but haven’t figured out a way to do that. It was a very frustrating and a lot of colourful language was used in the process!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em