Building A Me-Made Wardrobe – Em Sew Happy Blog

Nova Coat for Frocktails

Still recovering from Frocktails 2025 which is an annual gathering of sewing enthusiasts and is hosted in many different locations around the world. It was a fun night of delightful sewing banter, finally meeting familiar faces from social media in real life and getting to fondle a lot of fabric (with permission of course!).

The process of making or thinking about what to wear for the night started many months back. I wasn’t specifically thinking about Frocktails at the time, it was just that my growing hoard of sewing scraps had been bugging me, and my husband had cleaned out his closet and found some old pairs of jeans that were not fit for donating. I think there was also a sewing challenge based around upcycling that started me down this path.

I was initially planning on only using the denim to make another Papercut Nova Coat. In this version, I wanted to make the shorter version and size down a few sizes. I have a lovely long wool version, but I’ve always needed something in a lighter weight for the in-between seasons. As mentioned, I was trying to complete a sewing challenge, but inspiration and motivation was lacking as I started to cut into the denim. So, I stopped. I’m glad I did because I don’t think I would have achieved something that I love as much as the jacket I’ve ended up with.

After a pause of another couple of months, I started to envision the jacket I wanted. I have a lovely memory of my friend Hiromi, who gave me a gift in a box that she had covered in little bits and pieces of washi paper. The gift was a beautifully folded crane, but I fell in love with the box that housed it. Each piece was thoughtfully placed but irregular. There were no regular shapes, yet it felt cohesive. To my ten-year-old eyes, it was like a multifaced piece of jewellery. I wanted my jacket to have that thoughtful but irregular placement using my scraps, but I wanted to ground the scraps with pieces of denim so that the eyes have something to rest on like an outline in a painting.

Once inspiration struck, it was easy to work out what to do next. I started by reprinting my Nova Coat pattern pieces. Last time, I had sized down from a size 4 to a size 3. I went down another two sizes to the size 1. The main consideration is the bust measurement, the sleeve length and the length of the coat. I was sewing the shorter version. The finished garment measurements are so helpful and accurate. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips.

The next thing I had to work out was how to place and secure my scrap pieces. Since I wasn’t making traditional quilting blocks, I decided to cut a “base” for the scraps to rest on. If you’re cringing at my lack of technical knowledge as an expert quilter, I am putting a disclaimer here that I have no experience in quilting. Do not use this as a tutorial. Mine was a joyfully creative process. Once I had the pattern pieces cut out of an old bedsheet, I could place and sew on my pieces. I made sure everything was irregular but was cohesive with the colours and contrast I was trying to create. I cut the side back panels, and pocket pieces directly from my upcycled denim without needing to sew them onto a base. It was then easy to sew everything as instructed. The Nova Jacket is fully lined. I used another old sheet for this lining. The beauty of using old sheets is that everything is so soft from being washed in.

The jacket matched my True Bias Quinn Dress which I wore for the night. I was so happy with the outcome and comfortable on the night. I’ve found this process of using my sewing scraps to be fun and creative. It’s quite an addictive process and I made the Motif Studio Origami bag using the same process. I’ll be searching for more ways to use up my scraps. I’m glad that I’ve been keeping everything, no matter how small. It’s also a lovely reminder of all my past projects.

It was so inspiring to see the beautiful outfits but also to be in a space where women support women. Lots of compliments and chatter about outfits and fabric. There was a man who came along and kudos because he won best dressed! It was an inclusive space which felt welcoming. I’ll definitely be marking it in my diary for next year.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Fabric Shopping in South Korea

I’m not much of a shopper when I travel. In fact, I hesitate to even buy souvenirs for myself because I worry about dusting around those knick knacks. However, I had some recommendations from a friend who had recently had success on her trip so I thought that I would try especially since Korean fabric is famous for its quality especially linen and cotton. With a little research, I found two markets that I wanted to visit which were Gwangjang Markets and Dongdaemun Market. The only difficulty I saw was that I was tied to the schedule of the tour which would limit the window to get to these markets.

We had a few market visits in the tour which were fantastic. The highlight was Jagalchi Market in Busan which was located on Nampo Port. It’s also right next to the Busan International Film Festival Square which also has shops and street food lining the roads. Alongside enjoying a great lunch and being fascinated by the fish market, I kept an eye out for fabric stores. I thought I might come across some small fabric stalls like you do in Southeast Asia but was surprised that there weren’t any. I’m sure that the locals might know of some, but I found an overwhelming number of Olive Young Stores but sadly no fabric shops in sight.

I’m a pragmatic person so when I got back to my hotel, I got in touch with Linen Lab Co which I knew was based in Seoul and I have seen many people using their fabric especially their linen. I sent a DM asking them if it would be okay for me to order online and then get the fabric delivered to my hotel on the return leg of my trip to Seoul. I thought that if I couldn’t find a physical store, I might still be able to at least save on shipping. Also, when browsing the shops, I did find that prices for a lot of brands were better so I was keeping my fingers crossed that it would be the same for fabric. Linen Lab really came to the party and were so accommodating. Usually, their orders would be dispatched as the orders came in, but I had tricky timing because I couldn’t have anything delivered when I was travelling internally because the baggage allowance drops to 15kg on internal flights and I was only arriving back to Seoul on the weekend. I don’t know how they organised it. I was just told by them to have a great trip, and everything was waiting for me when I arrived back in Seoul. I was so happy with the beautiful fabric that arrived. I could never get the same where I live. I also felt so grateful with that I wasn’t charged shipping and for the great customer service I received.

Even with the challenges of the Tour Schedule, I did get to both Gwangjang Markets and Dongdaemun Markets. We walked to Gwangjang Market from our hotel in Insadong. It was a Sunday, and we got there at about 3pm only to discover that the part of the market selling fabric was closed. I did go into a section I thought might be for fabric, but they were selling fabric for making Hanbok and I was looking for cotton or silk. Gwangjang Market is famous for being one the oldest and largest markets in South Korea. It’s worth a visit for the food section which was bustling and teeming with tourists on a Sunday afternoon. Sadly, after speaking to one of the shopkeepers selling Hanboks, and working our way through the maze of shops, we were empty handed from that venture. There was definitely a Fabric Mart quite close to the main entrance (opposite side of the Food Quarter) but the doors were firmly locked.

On the last day of the tour, I had been talking to our lovely tour guide about the fabric in South Korea. I shared with her my interest in sewing and on the last day, she included the area of Dongdaemun Markets. I soon discovered that Dongdaemun is quite a big commercial area. There is huge modern shopping complex which we mistakenly went into at first but realised it wasn’t Dongdaemun Market. We then headed across to Pyounghwa Clothing Market which covered a whole city block but was more of a Flea Market containing all the knockoffs you could ever need. We realised then that we needed to cross the road to another building that could cover a city block which had the fabric. It didn’t have any signage or clear marking on the map so I couldn’t take a proper photo of a main entrance or anything. I’ll attach a photo below which is what you would see standing at the entrance of this building.

Sadly, we were met with disappointment again as most of the shops had closed. Unlike the markets in South-East Asia, this market is mainly based on commercial trade. If you’re a designer wanting to pick out your fabric, then this is the premium destination. You can imagine the scale of things were quite overwhelming with about five floors of closely packed shop stands. The ones that were still open were brimming with fabric and samples. I felt that for the small amount I was buying, I didn’t think it would be fair to get the shop to go to the effort of sending a runner to get the fabric cut, then to bring it back and all within the half hour that was remaining on my tour. I decided it was enough to see the place. If I return, I will allow at least a day and arrive in the morning. This area didn’t seem to be walking distance from my hotel in Insadong, but I was a bit lost at this point.

I was surprised that I didn’t come across any small fabric shops amongst the many stores. Most shops sold k-beauty and there were local dress shops. Maybe I might have saved a little bit by being able to buy fabric at the markets, but I felt quite overwhelmed when I was in those markets and by having to communicate though my phone translator. I doubt I would have found the same quality fabric that I had ordered from Linen Lab Co in the short time that I had to look around. I would say that it really needs someone with more local knowledge and language to be successful. Saying that, I’m delighted by the experience of seeing the fabric markets. It was a wonderful country to visit with so many unique experiences. It was fun to add fabric hunting alongside photo taking on our trip.

Thanks to everyone who took the time to make recommendations. Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

South Korea Unpacked

The Destination

The first thing that everyone asked me when I mentioned that I was heading to South Korea was, “Are you going to go see BTS?” and, “Do you love K-Drama?”. Although I do enjoy all those things about Korea, my husband and I were mainly interested in experiencing something culturally different and were looking forward to the amazing cuisine and indulging in a bit of photography. It didn’t disappoint and in fact, overdelivered in so many ways. For the first time, we decided to join an organised tour which was a great way to see more in the short time that we had available. There’s pros and cons with the tour set-up. The downside was the constant time pressure. We landed very late and were on the bus by 8am the next day for the first round of sightseeing which meant we did not have time to orientate ourselves with maps and e-sims which we figured out a bit late into the trip. Our tour started in Seoul and from there we flew to Jeju then from Jeju to Busan and then to the old capitol of Gyeongju and then back to Seoul. We did forgo the optional tour of the DMZ to have some free time just exploring Seoul on foot which we enjoyed immensely especially at our pace as photography enthusiasts.

Packing List

I’m sure there are a lot of travel blogs out there which are better for the sightseeing elements of travel so I thought I would focus on what I packed and found useful with clothing because those were the blogs I was searching for before leaving. I had come across a few general blogs about Korean weather, but I’ve never experienced the climate that we came across in Korea. It was explained to us that generally we can consider that Korea has 4 seasons but there are 24 traditional seasons based on the location of the sun. We were in Mangjong which meant that the mornings and evenings were cool, but the humidity and temperature were high from mid-morning to evening and we also hit the start of the rainy season. It’s basically summer which coincides with the monsoon season. It would rain and then the sun would come out and everything was humid and steamy.

So, here was my mostly me-made packing list:

Tops	Sewlala Alea TopTrue Bias Ogden Cami Uniqlo Cotton Shirt Uniqlo shelf-bra cami top x2 Swimstyle Velma Top Cashmerette Brattle Top x 2 H&M Sleeveless Top Ash Cami Top
Pants	True Bias Dani Pants x 3 Closetcore Pietra Pants Big W Shorts x 1
Dresses / Jumpsuits	Closetcore Amy Jumpsuit True Bias Darla Jumpsuit Sewing Therapy Tie Dress Sew To Grow Arcadia Dress Sew To Grow Lanti Swing Dress
Outerwear	Uniqlo White Cardigan K-mart Beige Cardigan Rain jacket
Shoes	White sandals Sneakers
Other	Swim wear

Outfits & Outings

Everything was worn except the shorts! All three of my Dani Pants were worn and the denim and drill versions were worn more than once.

I wore the linen version of my Dani Pants on a day when we hiked up Seongsan Sunrise Peak which was steep. It was extremely hot and humid which was intensified when it started to drizzle as we climbed to the top. I was thankful that I had layered a linen top over a cami which made the humidity more bearable.

This is also where you can see the Hae Nyeo Show which is the traditional female free divers of Jeju. We were lucky enough to try some sea squirt from a diver who is part of a new generation of Hae Nyeo.

South Korea is full of natural beauty and can be enjoyed by anyone who loves hiking. There are gardens and parks everywhere to enjoy. Jeju, in particular, was very beautiful with Oreums (extinct volcanoes and craters) scattered throughout the island.

I’m so glad that I packed my dresses and jumpsuits which I could again, layer with a thin cardigan. Surprisingly, in Busan, there is a fantastic beach under the skyscrapers and I actually went for a swim so it was worth packing the swimmers.

I felt that the shorts didn’t get any wear because it felt out of place in a city setting. The other consideration with shorts and tops is that there is generally a dress code for visiting the beautiful Buddhist temples. I especially enjoyed visiting Haedong Yonggungsa Buddhist temple which is by the sea. There was also Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju and we were lucky enough to see the Seokguram Grotto in the rain which made the experience exquisitely magical.

Often, Asian tours are synonymous with Temple Overload but I thought we had the perfect amount. There were a lot of cultural and historic areas to visit. It was hard to pick a favourite but I narrowed it down to two. Gamcheon Village in Busan was gorgeous and an engaging place to visit. I loved getting off the beaten track down narrow alleyways, visited the shops and we had our portrait drawn by a talented caricature artist!

The colourful alleyways of Gamcheon Cultural Village in Busan

Bukchon cultural village is worth a visit as well with the amazing group of traditional houses. It has a curfew and opens from 10am and closes at 5pm because there are residents who live in this village. I think that there is one street in particular made famous by social media which has created most of the headache for residents. Not sure why everyone crowds in the one street when you could get equally good or better photos in the street next to it. The best thing we did was going into the Bukchon Cultural Museum and Observatory. It’s at a high point so you can look out over the rooftops and get a nice cool iced tea which is free with entry.

There was such a variety of sights and activities in South Korea from the lively tourist hub of Myeong-dong where you can try street food and shop till you drop, to the narrow and charming alleyways of ikseong-dong crammed full of restaurants and trendy cafes.

I ended up with just over 700 photos because everything is so picturesque in South Korea. It’s definitely worth a visit or two or three.

Final note on a favourite memory was dressing up in the traditional Hanbok and I’m so glad that my husband joined me too. I can highly recommend Hanbok Day Rental which is just around the corner from Gyeongbokgung Palace where we went to see the changing of the guards and strolled through the palace grounds. We did this on the first day of our visit and it really set the tone for the rest of our stay.

Thanks for reading my extremely long blog post and happy sewing!

X Em

PS I will be following up with a blog post about fabric shopping in South Korea. There was too much to unpack in this one!

Winter Weekend Getaway Wardrobe

Margaret River is a short drive from Perth in Western Australia which makes it an ideal destination for a weekend getaway. It’s such a beautiful region with so much to see and do but the goal of this getaway was to do less and reset after several very hectic few months. Forest bathing amongst the giant gum trees works wonders for the mind and the blood pressure.

It’s currently winter so I decided to be very practical in my packing. We did have a slow lunch booked at a winery which meant that my outfit had to be good for walking but dressy enough for the venue that we were lunching at. Before leaving for the trip, I managed to finish sewing two versions of the Swimstyle High Waist Pants* which I wore on the first day. We were staying in town, which was great for walking around town, visiting some of the unique shops in Margaret River Town. The highlight was finding Margaret River Artisan Store which is run by a cooperative of local artists. We also picked up some delicious goodies to bring home to share the taste of Margaret River with our family from Vasse Virgin and another favourite was dropping into Margaret River Bookshop for a few new books. There are so many boutique stores to explore but we had to head out to lunch.

Lunch was at Xanadu Wineries which is one of the more established wineries in the region. I would highly recommend booking for any of the venues before going as it gets very busy. I’m glad I paired my High Waist Pants with my Jarrah Jumper and had a cardigan with me.

I also packed my Nova Jacket which I was grateful for as the temperature dropped and there was an icy wind blowing by the time we had finished out slow long lunch. A trip to Margaret River is not complete without popping into Voyager Estate.

We headed back to our accommodation for a rest and to change before heading out to dinner at Swings and Roundabout. Another fabulous venue but book ahead or risk missing out. The temperature was considerably cooler by nighttime, so I was glad that I had packed my Dawn Jeans. I wore it with my Alea Blouse (this pattern was a collaboration between Sewlala Patterns and Marsha Style). Sorry, no photos in situ but popped some old photos below. I think the key is to layer up as often venues are quite well heated interiorly but getting to and from the venue can be wet and cold.

Our last day started with pastries and coffee at the beautiful self-contained unit we were staying in. The sun was streaming in, and the air warmed to a beautiful 20 degrees.

I decided to wear the denim version of my High Waist Pants with the Brattle Top. I only needed to throw on a lightweight cardigan for the rest of the day. We were driving back to Perth with a detour to Wild Hop Brewery. This came highly recommended from friends, and we were glad that we had followed the recommendation to book the Rotisserie Chicken as well. It was a worthwhile detour!

Most of these items were made well ahead of time. I’m glad that my wardrobe is slowly filling with my handmade items.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Pattern gifted as part of Ambassador Program but all opinions remain my own.

Tropical Holiday Capsule Wardrobe

Thailand has always been a much-desired destination that my husband and I have wanted to explore. We headed off to Phuket mid-March for a quick visit when my husband was lucky enough to win the trip through a work raffle! The tropics are known for hot and humid weather but there are some variations in the seasons according to when the monsoon is passing through. The best time to visit Phuket is between December and March with the temperatures between 24 degrees Celsius to 32 degrees Celsius and the lowest humidity in the year. It was often hottest at midday to mid-afternoon with a sea breeze picking up after 5pm.

So, armed with this information, I prepared my travel capsule. Believe it or not, I started with shoes. In Thailand, everyone wears flip-flops or sandals majority of the time, even when you are going to restaurants. Starting with shoes just makes it easier to pick out the items that I know will with the footwear.

The next item most worn are swimmers. I brought three pairs as I knew I would be swimming daily, and we had also planned excursions to the Elephant Sanctuary and the Ao Phang-Nga Marine National Park. The Elephant Sanctuary gets very muddy so I had a pair of swimmers that I knew I would put aside after that excursion (until I could get home to give it a proper wash). The Elephant Sanctuary was really the highlight of my trip. There’s no elephant rides at this sanctuary and the objective is the rehabilitation of elephants but it also includes looking after the livelihoods of the caretakers (Mahouts) of the elephants and their families. Phang-Nga Marine National Park was another outstanding outing. Most people know it from films like The Beach and James Bond.

The best space savers were the dresses that I brought. I brought three, the Hannah Dress from By Hand London, not photographed unfortunately, but it was the first dress I wore out to dinner. The Pattern Scout Flora Dress was also very cool and easy to wear in the humid weather so it got a few wears and was great for beach walks and for dinners. Lastly, I also took along my True Bias Lora Dress which has a very flattering silhouette, and it was made with very lightweight cotton. Again, it was something that could transition from a shopping trip at the local markets to dinner at a restaurant on the beach.

Surprisingly, the item that I over packed were shorts. One was left unworn. I had packed four but honest could have just packed two. I loved the Sorrento Shorts which is a great high-waisted style of shorts from Sew Eloh Patterns. This paired well with the Avola Cami and the white Cashmerette Brattle T-shirt. I packed and wore all three of my Brattle shirts.

Sew Eloh Sorrento Shorts and Cashmerette Avola Top

Thailand is home to some amazing temples with 94% of it’s population being Buddhist. To visit these holy sites there is a dress code where legs and shoulders are covered out of respect. I wore my True Bias Dani Pants with my Cashmerette Brattle Top and the linen in the pants were so cool to wear. We visited the Big Buddha which has amazing views and we also stopped by Wat Chalong Temple which is a huge complex of temples. Unfortunately, we were also taken to Tiger Park. I can’t comment on the ethics of this type of tourism. It was very clean and the tigers looked well fed but I did not do any research beforehand as I wasn’t expecting this stop. They are magnificent creatures and I hope that this sort of tourism encourages people to look after their habitat.

True Bias Dani Pants with Cashmerette Brattle Top

On the day that we went to Old Town Phuket, I wore my Sewhouse 7 Free Range Slacks with my Fabricstore Ash Cami. This was handy as there are a few temples that we visited in Old Town and we stayed until evening so my covered legs were kept safe from mosquitos. Old Town is filled with interesting Sino-Portugese architecture and reminds me of Malacca and Penang. It’s worth a look, I just wished we had timed our visit with the Sunday Markets which are famous as two streets are closed off for the stalls and food carts.

Fabric Store Ash Cami and Sewhouse 7 Free Range Slacks

Apart for wildlife excursions and tourist destinations, my husband and I travel for the chance to taste the cuisine. We were a bit disheartened at first at the watered-down versions of Thai dishes we were being served at the venues we had tried until my husband came across Silk’s Restaurant. It’s a fine dining Thai Restaurant attached to a resort. For the special long lunch, I wore my Swimstyle Set made with the Tallulah Tie Top and the pants of the Tamarama Set. It was a delicious lunch and it felt special to get dressed up for the lunch date.

Swimstyle Set – Tallulah Tie Top and Tamarama Pants

Final mentions are some accessories that I made and brought along. The Motif Studio Utility Tote was great as a poolside and beachside bag. It contained so much and the big pockets inside and outside were very handy. The other accessory was my Melco Bucket Hat. I’m super proud that I was a tester for this pattern which Melco are making free for their subscribers.

I’ve probably overpacked by some people’s standards but I was happy with my items. The only unworn item was one pair of shorts and in a country where humidity can get quite high, I felt that multiple changes were needed out of necessity and sometimes excursions needed items that were appropriate for the context of that tour.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Launching into 2024

Setting down some goals for the new year like everyone else! Creatively, I don’t think the way I’ve sewn in the past year, has advanced my sewing. It’s been a bit random, and I’ve just listed a bunch of patterns that I wanted to sew. When I first started, my sewing was more targeted like when I wanted to learn how to install zips, I chose a lot of patterns that had zip installation in the pattern. Returning to those learning based goals, I’m going to slow the process down and really think about each detail of the process which will also mean that I document the process a bit differently. Don’t get me wrong, I’m still quite spontaneous in my sewing endeavours and when inspiration hits, I will probably still want to have a speedy sew or two but generally, I think it will be useful to record some of the work in progress in more detail.

Back to thinking about documentation, I find documenting my makes helps my learning process so I will continue to do it. I’m mainly focussing on skills but I want to expand my knowledge on fabric. I’ve built up quite a collection over the few years so this year I’m combining my Make Nine with a new prompt called Sew What I Have. The idea is to sew what fabric you currently have in your stash. I’m not promising not to get more but I’m going to be better at reaching for what I have before I go shopping.

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What will this mean for my Blog? I’ve been recording my makes according to the items made. I’m thinking of expanding this to highlight some of the skills that are featured in each pattern which might make the blogs more useful and more of a discussion platform. I’m mainly interested in learning so I’m always grateful when other makers tell me how they might do something. I’m happy with constructive feedback. Afterall, I’m only self-taught and have only been sewing for three and a bit years. I fully respect the industry experts and the makers that have been sewing since they were able to reach the sewing machine.

Here are some completed makes from 2023 that were from my Make Nine list. I deviated from it which meant that I ran out of time and motivation so I did not sew everything on the list.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Can I Sew It In One Hour

It’s getting to that time of year where time is a scarce commodity. I came across the Blomma Tank, a free pattern from Paradise Patterns, a few months ago and have been meaning to sew it up but things just kept popping up. I saw that other makers have said that it only takes a short time to sew. So, last weekend, I thought that I’d give myself an hour and I’ll see how far I get. For a laugh, I recorded my time. It was a surprise to me that I got as far as I did! I ended up making the whole thing in under two hours. So, no. I can’t sew it in one hour, but it was motivating to try!

The Blomma Tank is a core piece for the wardrobe. Great for layering in winter and just so comfortable on its own in summer. I didn’t toile the pattern as other makers had commented that the sizing was quite accurate. My sizing of 35-inch high-bust, 37-inch bust, and 33-inch waist sat between the size E and F in the B Cup. I decided to sew size F without any modifications. It is a close-fitting top so there is negative ease in the stretch fabric. I’ve used a bamboo stretch jersey which is very soft. I hadn’t realised that I needed bias binding, so I used the same fabric which was ok.

Knit fabric sewing is still unfamiliar to me. I think this has been the year where I’ve sewn the most with knits. I do love how comfortable wearing those knit fabric makes are so I’m going to persevere with it. You’ll see on my Blomma Tank that my neckband is a bit floppy which is showing my lack of skill. I deviated from the pattern instruction and attached the neckband and armhole bands with the overlocker as I’ve done in the past. I thought it would be fine but you can see that I don’t have the more sporty look as intended by the design of the pattern.

Back to the sewing challenge! I decided to start the Can I Sew It In One Hour hashtag (#CanISewItInOneHour) to keep myself motivated. I’m an over thinker and sometimes my need for perfection stops me from just giving something a go. It’s also that time of year when everyone is short on time and motivation so I thought it would be a fun way to connect with others who are feeling the same way. I’m excited to see what patterns others might suggest for me or what everyone will try. I hope to make it a safe space for anyone wanting to join in. It’s not a serious challenge with a hundred rules and there are no prizes apart from the joy of sewing. It’s a place for connection and support. I hope it inspires a lot of joyful sewing and laughter.

Pairing the Blomma Tank with Freerange Slacks, Wooster Jacket and Revisible Tote

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tropical Holiday Dresses

Bali is one of our favourite holiday destinations. It’s not just the warm climate that I enjoy but one of my grandmothers was born in Indonesia, so it has echoes of a homecoming. I enjoy the beautiful hospitality of the Balinese people and the chance to practice speaking Bahasa. I was planning to share some content during my stay but after a day of spa, eating and sea-side lounging, I was so relaxed that I didn’t pick up my phone until I was leaving.

My lovely husband did manage a few snaps of some of the dresses I packed for the trip so I thought I would share those. Bali is tropical but August is dry season so it’s not too humid. There is always a sea breeze blowing with a temperature range between 24 degrees to 30 degrees which is so comfortable. I love packing dresses for holidays as it’s a great space saver. Also, with the right fabric and design, dresses can easily transition from day to evening wear.

Most worn was the Celestia Dress from Papercut Patterns. This dress was so versatile and so comfortable as it can be worn braless! I also love the roomy fit as there was a lot of local cuisine to enjoy like satay lilit, bebek betutu, urab and all often accompanied with a side of sambal matah.

Tide Dress from Papercut Patterns was another dress I packed. I probably did not wear this dress as much as the others as I found that the linen was very crushed, and I didn’t have ironing facilities. Also, I find linen a bit scratchy when it’s newly made, and it needs a bit of seasoning with a few washes and wears to soften.

I did wear it for a very interesting Balinese Opera Show, Dramatari Arja. The whole drama was sung by a chorus of about 15 singers which had a very hypnotic effect with the narration by a solo performer singing an operatic soliloquy. Worth it if you visit Bali.

The most comfortable fabric was this Nani Iro cotton-silk blend from DIY district that I used for my Patternscout Studio’s Flora Dress. It was so soft and cool to wear. Just a little mistake I had made was sewing the straps too far out and I found that the strap kept falling down my shoulders. I’ll need to unpick and move the straps closer as I think my shoulders have a narrower profile. Apart from that, the design allows for the dress to be pulled over the head which was so easy to wear.

Lora Dress from True Bias was a real favourite for the sunny days.

It’s a perfect summer dress and matched the beautiful gardens!

It was an easy style to wear and kept me cool in the midday sun. It’s been a gloriously relaxing holiday with a lot of lounging and uninterrupted reading. Feeling refreshed and looking forward to a bit of summer sewing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Sewing Plans for AW2023

I always find myself scrambling when the weather cools down, looking for cosy outfits to fight the chill at sunset. The items in the wardrobe that I’ve packed away in the hotter months now need to be retrieved, aired, and prepared for wear.

Last winter, I was happy to tackle a few projects like the Nova Coat, Marlo Sweater and Cozi Jacket.

My “Make Nine List” this year includes the Niya Dress, Mave Skirt, Dani Pants, Courtney Dress, Dawn Jeans, Ashling Dress, Tide Dress, Bleuet Dress and tackling my ever-growing scraps collection.

I’ve managed to sew the Niya Dress and Mave skirts which have been such great additions to my wardrobe. I’d like to concentrate on the Dani Pants (from True Bias Patterns) and the Dawn Jeans (from Megan Nielsen Patterns) for the cooler months. Making jeans have been on my wish list for a couple of years so it would be great to try the pattern this year, but I am still looking for the right fabric.

The Me Made May Challenge is also coming up. I’ve used this sewing challenge in the past to assess my makes. I’ve been doing my own Me Made Everyday Challenge. In summer, the Pietra Pants have been the hero item from my wardrobe especially the neutral-coloured wide leg pair. The Me Made May Challenge is a personal challenge where you can set your own goals. I’ve used it in the past to assess the quality of my makes and made repairs if needed. Last year, I made a look book and recorded the first week or two. This year, I’m hoping to record my daily outfits and I’m including ready to wear items that I have. I’m including ready to wear because I already had great quality items before I started sewing and I want to incorporate my sewn items into my existing wardrobe. Along the way, I’ll be taking note of any items that need replacing or maintenance.

Of course, the plans are flexible, and I might find myself sewing a dress or two for relaxation purposes! Generally, every item I’ve sewn is treasured and has been used well.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Brattle Top

A beginner’s guide to sewing with knit fabric (from a beginner).

Sewing knit fabric has been something I’ve avoided in the past but since joining Cashmerette Club* and having access to their wonderful resources, I’ve gained a lot of confidence in this area. In fact, I’ve been looking for more to sew! The Brattle Top is the April pattern of the month for Cashmerette Club. It’s a tee with a twist front. It’s such a comfortable top to wear and the twist just gives it a little bit of interest.

For those that are just venturing into sewing knit fabrics, here are a few tips that I wish I had known before starting out.

Needle

You’ll need a ballpoint sewing machine needle. The ballpoint needle will slip between the fibres of the fabric and will not snag the fabric. In my first attempt, I had tried sewing with a universal needle and it was snagging that fabric so badly that I just could not continue until a lovely person on Instagram informed me about ballpoint needles.

Stitches

Another problem I had encountered with my first attempt at knit fabric sewing was that my stitches kept breaking off. This is because there’s elasticity in the fabric and a straight stitch just doesn’t accommodate for this stretch. I use a lightning stitch or a zig-zag stitch. I tend to use the lightning stitch for seams because it has a narrow width with longer stitch length, but the zig-zag stitch looks better for top stitching. For hemming, I use the twin needle.

Don’t pull on the fabric

Another challenge with the elasticity of the fabric is the temptation to pull the fabric as you sew which warps the fabric. I’m just very mindful not to put tension on the fabric unless I’m attaching something like a neckband which is often a requirement of the pattern. Otherwise, I try to keep the fabric flat.

Get yourself an overlocker

Ok, this is technically not a tip! It’s not a requirement at all for sewing with knit fabric but it does make it easy if you have one. In fact, some people sew almost the entire project on their overlockers. I bought mine second hand off Facebook marketplace. It’s a very old and heavy Bernina which has not missed a beat.

Brattle Top

The Brattle top is a great beginner’s pattern. Luckily, I had no problems sewing it. The construction is easy to follow, and it comes together quickly. I’ve made the short sleeve version, but the sleeves are also interchangeable with the Carlyle Tee. I might try a three-quarter sleeve version for the cooler months. I’ve sewn the size 10 for my measurements of 35-inch high bust, 37-inch full bust and 33-inch waist. I find this to be a great fit and did not make any adjustments.

I’m glad that I’ve been challenged to sew with knit fabric. It’s such a comfortable and versatile fabric to wear and style. I’ll be trying a few more patterns for knit fabric in the future.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Cashmerette Club membership has been kindly gifted to me as part of a collaboration with Cashmerette.