fashion – Page 5 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Dawn Jeans (Wide Leg)

I made jeans! I’ve had this pattern now for about three years. Each year, I take the pattern out to put on my “Make Nine” list and then chicken out and the whole cycle starts again the following year. The barriers have been slightly varied each year including needing a better sewing machine, needing more skill, denim can be expensive, so I didn’t want to outlay the cost only to be disappointed. In the end, this has been the right year for me to attempt this pattern.

The Dawn Jeans comes in four variations, and I’ve chosen to sew the wide leg version. There is also the straight leg version which I will return to sew as well. I love that everything is customisable and there are lots of suggestions on how to do this. I started out thinking I would use a contrasting brown topstitch but after seeing on the zip-fly, I decided to use matching thread for a more modern sleek look. This was also because it’s my first iteration of the pattern and I was more interested in making sure the fit was right.

So, the pattern has a vintage inspired fit with minimal ease at the hips and is high waisted. I was worried about fit because I’ve never had a comfortable “ready to wear” pair of jeans. I find that I often don’t fit into high waisted fitted pants because of my belly. Measuring myself just at the waist and hips does not really give me a good guide to how my body would fit so I went to the Cashmerette site and used the measuring guide for the Creston Jeans. I haven’t made those jeans yet, but I love the guides on fitting that Cashmerette provide. I’ve put my measurements in the table below, but you can also check out the Cashmerette Blog for their guide. I used the elastic band method to get my measurements.

Natural Waist	33”
At Waistband	36”
Crotch length	27 ¾”
Rise	12”
In seam	28”
Hip	40”

My Measurements

Using those measurements, I decided to grade the Dawn Jeans from a size 14 waist to size 12 at the hips and to use the regular full inseam. The sizing options cater for tall and crop inseam as well. I couldn’t decide if I should sew the shorts first as a toile, but impatience made me jump into the deep end.

The pattern is drafted for non-stretch denim, so I chose a rigid ring spun 6oz (200gsm) denim. It’s a lighter weight denim which still holds its shape but easier on the sewing machine. I’m ordering a 10oz (338gsm) vintage denim for my next attempt.

Making jeans was not a weekend project for me. It took several weeks to work through all the details which made it thoroughly enjoyable. I love how the first thing you tackle in the pattern is the zip fly. I’ve only ever done this once before when I made the True Bias Dani Pants. It was a lot easier this time. I haven’t made a comparison of the methodology, but my zip extension sits very neatly, and I was so happy with the result. I think slowing down also helped.

I did attempt to topstitch but the sound that my machine made stressed me out. I did learn that to have neat topstitching I needed a longer stitch length and a slight increase in tension. It would also be handy to use a second machine for the topstitching. This will be something I return to in the future. The instructions for the topstitching are incredibly detailed and it will give it a “classic jeans” look. Instructions throughout the pattern were very comprehensive with illustrations. I found the online photo tutorials were very helpful and referred to them often. Luckily, I had saved the initial email sent when I bought the pattern with all the links because I couldn’t find them by myself on the website. It’s because the Ash Jeans are used for the Dawn Jeans as well.

Attaching the shank jean button was not as difficult as I thought it would be. I bought the button kit a while ago when I bought the Dawn Jeans pattern. My pattern came with a few options and a separate instruction booklet for these options. There’s a button fly, exposed button fly, and zip fly options. My toolbox did not have an awl, so I used a nail which worked fine.

There are a few things I would like to improve the next time I make this pattern. There are instructions to clip into the curve of the front pant seam. I followed the instructions, but I regret this as I think this will weaken the seam and might disintegrate with laundering. I wish I had left it unclipped. Would anyone know why this was instructed? I’m going to try the contrast stitching but using two spools or maybe I’ll be brave and use the topstitching thread on my spare machine. Oh! Also, I put the coin pocket on the wrong way so now it’s a secret pocket. It faces inwards instead of out. I was so sure that the instruction says to put the pocket facing and pocket bag wrong sides together, but it was too late to correct it by the time I realised. I’m not too upset, I think it’s handy to have a secret pocket.

I’m not going to wait so long to make this again. I’ve really enjoyed the challenge and the details of this pattern. Hopefully this will give you a push if you’ve been wanting to try sewing jeans.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tie Dress

Catching up with my latest make which is this beautiful newly released Tie Dress from Sewing Therapy. So, if you have been following Sewing Therapy on YouTube, you’ll also be following Sara on Instagram under the handle @yoursara_k and you can find it in her Two O Nine Fabric Etsy shop. Okay, now that you know where to locate everything, let’s talk about this uniquely versatile dress which features four ties and comes as short or long sleeves. The ties can be tied in a multitude of ways to create a different look.

It’s always a short testing period with Sewing Therapy Patterns. I’m fine this as long as it spans over a weekend. When I signed up, I was so excited to get into the testing team because it was a long weekend here in Australia. This was until I got to the fabric store and realised that it was closed for the public holiday! Luckily the store reopened the next day when I found this beautiful linen/cotton blend fabric. I love the bright large floral print. The print is bright but is also muted. Not quite pastel but halfway there.

The pattern is a great beginner’s pattern and Sara has created very comprehensive sew along videos. It’s important to know that there are written instructions but there are no illustrations in the pattern. If you are not great with videos or have no access to YouTube, then it might not qualify as a beginner’s pattern. I did find the written instructions to be logical and easy to understand but I did appreciate the videos that Sara released early to the testers especially for the attachment of the short sleeves and the ties. The methodology for the construction of the short sleeves was quite novel to me.

My sizing was fine for the test but there were some adjustments made for the larger sizes. I like testing for Sara because she’s quick to respond to testers questions and she always gives us feedback or updates as we sew. I made the size 12 (38B:33W:40H) and I would happily sew the same size again. I’ll be making the dress with the long sleeves to wear over winter.

Styling this dress is so much fun because of the ties and, you can wear it with the V neck or Boat neck. It’s never boring! The dress will also be great for layering which is why I hope to make another one soon.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Marcel Dress

When it comes to floaty maxi dresses, there is nothing more iconic than the Chalk and Notch Marcel Dress. It’s immediately recognisable with the dress fitting through the high bust and the tiered panels along the side. I had sewn the tank top version as a wearable toile last year but was waiting to find the right fabric for the maxi dress. When I found this polka dotted rayon from East Coast Textiles, I thought that it would be the right combination.

The dress is quite loose through the full bust, waist, and hip area so the high bust measurement is the main measure for fitting. It also has cup sizes from A to D so the full bust measurement can be used to determine this. I made the size 12 A/B cup without any modifications for both the tank top and the maxi version.

Construction of the dress involved a lot of gathering. This was also why the right fabric must have a good amount of drape and be lightweight enough for gathering. Once you get the rhythm of gathering and then sewing the panels, putting together the dress goes quite fast. But it’s times like this that I wish I had a gathering foot! A quick note on sewing with rayon, I think I have listed some helpful tips in the past, but I would like to reiterate a few things. Remember to use a rotating blade cutter instead of scissors, mark your fabric before removing from the cutting table, use spray on starch if you want to stabilise the fabric, and stay-stitch necklines and armholes.

I enjoyed the pattern as the instructions and the illustrations were very clear. I also used the sew along tutorial that is available on the Chalk and Notch blog. The photographic tutorial was a nice extra but really, you could understand the pattern well enough from the written instructions provided.

This dress came together in a day which was lucky because I was making it for a getaway with my girlfriends. I hate sewing in a rush, but I knew the fit would be fine from my previous make of the tank top. The getaway was to Brisbane which is a beautiful city. It was quite hot and humid with periods of rain on and off. The dress was great for a dinner at the heritage listed Howard Smith Wharfs which is tucked under the Story Bridge, which everything revolves around in Brisbane. I was grateful to be able to spend some time with my oldest and dearest friends (they won’t be happy that I’ve referred to them as old).

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Lanti Swing Dress Again

I can’t believe it’s been almost two years ago when I was a tester for the release of this Sew to Grow Lanti Swing Dress pattern. I’ve always meant to come back and sew it again because I do wear the two that I’ve made a lot especially my flax-coloured version. I have really enjoyed coming back to make the pattern as I knew the modifications I wanted to make, and I was already familiar with the sizing. Also, the pattern pieces are already put together which meant I could get into the sewing part faster.

For this version of my Lanti, I wanted to use this Yarn Dyed Linen Grid Check which I bought from Megan Nielsen Patterns when she still had a shop. It’s such a beautiful quality linen that I have been hesitant to use it and also when you buy fabric ahead of time, you have to see if the pattern’s fabric requirements match your available fabric. I had 2 meters x 150cm available. The Lanti Dress comes as two versions, one is the smock style dress and the other is an A-line version. Initially, I thought I would take the opportunity to sew the A-line however, it would have wasted ¼ of the fabric. After looking to Pinterest for inspiration, I decided I wanted to make the smock style but add quite a lot of length to the skirt and to make it with short sleeves.

The smock dress has an empire waist with a boxy bodice. I kept to the size 12 that I previously made for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I modified the pattern by lengthening the skirt to 30 inches and narrowing the width of the skirt by 4 inches. I wanted to make the dress a midi length and I needed to narrow the width because the linen had a bit of body to it. It probably sits between the light and medium weight gage. Another small modification was to swap a button and button loop closure for a tie closure.

The instructions and illustrations with Sew to Grow patterns are well set out and written. However, I found myself deviating and sewing the pattern from my own preferred construction. I think that is a natural progression as you gain experience. Small things like pocket construction, seam finishes or attaching facings can all be sewn in different ways with the same outcome.

Needless to say, I’m happy with the outcome. My new Lanti Swing Dress will be easy to layer with leggings or with a cardigan thrown over. I was also experimenting with shoes. Chunky white sneakers or something neutral. The dress is so versatile and I’m looking forward to adding it to my autumn/winter capsule wardrobe.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tallulah Top

Last week, I received the very exciting news that I was part of the Swimstyle Patterns Ambassador Program! For my first pattern, I thought I would get onto sewing some resort wear for my upcoming holiday. The cutest pairing popped into my mind with the Tallulah Tie Top and the Tamarama Pants, the latter being part of its own set. I’m focussing this review on the Tallulah Top and will save the Tamarama for its own review.

The Tallulah Top is a boxy shaped top with a deep tie. It can be worn with the tie in the back or in the front. It has grown on sleeves, and it is finished with biased binding which can be ready made or there’s very detailed instructions on how to make your own. This time, I’ve chosen to save time and fabric by using ready-made.

I was quite nervous cutting into my fabric because I’ve not sewn Swimstyle Patterns before, so I was wondering about the accuracy of sizing. There was no need to worry as it was spot on for me. For my measurements of 35-inch-high bust, 38-inch full bust and 33-inch waist, the closest fit was the size L according to the sizing chart. I feel very comfortable with the fit. I decided that I’m more comfortable with the tie in the back and it falls in the perfect position to cover my bra strap.

Fabric choice is something I’m still learning about, so I was really happy that Swimstyle Patterns include an extensive list of specific suggestions. The pattern is made for woven fabrics, and it suits something lightweight and with fluid drape. I had a stash of rayon fabrics from East Coast Textiles which I had bought in anticipation of sewing something for the humid weather I’ll be travelling to. I decided it would be fun to use the Banana Leaves in Green.

The instructions printed with the PDF pattern, and I was worried that they would be too brief for me because there weren’t many pages. However, the patterns instructions are well set out with excellent illustrations that accompany the instructions in a clear and logical way. There were also photographic instructions that I could access which are a great additional reference. The pattern pieces were marvellously drafted. It felt quite architectural, and I was amazed at how everything came together. It was so enjoyable to sew something drafted in such a unique way. You can tell that this is drafted by someone who has had many year of experience in pattern drafting.

I’m looking forward exploring more of this unique drafting with my collaboration with Swimstyle Patterns.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Avola Top

Another great pattern from Cashmerette! I love this wide strapped version of this camisole top from Cashmerette. I wanted a plain white camisole top, and this is such a well-fitting top. I’m also very happy with the length as I prefer to wear my tops untucked so this lands at just the right spot for me.

I’ve used the Cashmerette sizing calculator, and it has been so accurate that I have been confidently skipping the toile. Not that it’s recommended but I’m sewing for an upcoming trip and this sizing calculator has not let me down yet! For my measurements of 35HB: 38FB: 33W, it was recommended that I sew a C Cup, size 10 bodice grading to a size 14 waist. I think it’s very comfortable and the only adjustment needed was to trim 1.5 inches off the straps.

The fabric is from my stash. It’s a beautiful white linen/cotton blend with subtle texture created by the weave. For the lining, I’ve used a white muslin. I tend to use muslin for lining because it’s very light and the weave is loose, so it’s works very comfortably as lining. Sometimes, if the lining is made from stiff cotton, it can pull the shell of the top or dress out of shape. Whatever, you use for lining must be loose and have some give.

Great wide straps that cover the bra straps

This pattern also comes as a dress. I have some fabric earmarked for the dress. This pattern is lovely as a slip dress. I want to use the other strap option which is a narrow strap and uses rings and sliders to make it adjustable. That would be something new to try as I’ve never sewn that before.

This top will be a great core item in my closet. It’s fun to make colourful dresses but it’s items like this which are the workhorse of a closet! Happy to be adding to my basics collection.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em