handmade – Page 5 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Darla Jumpsuit

Featuring Fibers to Fabric Hand-blocked Cambric Cotton

It was so exciting to receive this beautiful hand-blocked cambric cotton from Fibers to Fabric for a review. The first thing I had to find out was, what was cambric cotton? It’s sometimes known as batiste and it’s a beautifully sheer fabric that’s great for summer. It reminds me of the handkerchiefs my grandmother used to hand embroider. It’s a natural fabric and usually made from either linen or in this case, cotton. It’s popular because it can be dyed easily so it’s perfect for the Fibers to Fabric hand-block.

My first challenge was narrowing down what I was going to make with it. The fabric width is 42” (107 cm) and I had 3 meters. The design of the hand-block was non-directional. I narrowed it down to the True Bias Darla Jumpsuit because I wanted to maximise the use of every square inch of this fabric. With a bit of creative cutting and use of a white muslin for the liner, I managed to cut the maxi with classic bodice version of the Darla. Gloriously, this included the pockets!

To prepare the fabric, I overlocked both cut ends of the fabric before soaking and washing it in cold water. Once out of the wash, I air-dried it then finished with a warm iron. The benefit of cambric cotton over plain cotton is the tighter weave which makes it more resilient with frequent laundering. It’s stands up better to being washed without compromise to the lightness of the fabric.

While my fabric was drying, I gathered my supplies for my Darla Jumpsuit. There are four versions of this pattern. It can actually be sewn as a dress and comes as a maxi or mini. There are two bodice options. One is a tie back or the classic with the invisible zip. I decided on the classic, so I needed an invisible zip. When I was at Spotlight, I also bought the invisible zipper foot. The pattern calls for lining which can be from the same fabric. I used a white muslin and interfacing which was already in my stash. To prepare my machine, I changed my needle to a new size 10/70 needle which is great for lightweight fabrics.

Now, I’m not brave when it comes to cutting straight into “good” fabric with a new pattern. I toiled the Darla bodice with a remnant thin cotton and had to make some adjustments. I recommend this especially since the Darla has a fitted bodice. For my measurements of 35” HB:37.5” FB:33” W:40”H, I made the size 12 and I did have to adjust the bust. It says in the pattern that it is drafted for a C Cup so my measurements would put me between the B Cup and C Cup. The structure of the bust is made from two darts, one from the side (underarm) and one from bottom (under bust). Without going into too much of the math, the dart can be adjusted to be narrower for a smaller cup or wider for a fuller cup. I adjusted the side seam to compensate for the adjustment and I only adjusted the underarm dart. The main message is to toile, and I always adjust on my body and then measure. I’m terrible at doing it the proper way which would be more accurate. I find the Darla pattern true to size.

This hand stamped floral block print was a dream to work with. It’s very stable to sew and easy to handle. I used an overlocker to finish the seams which worked fine. Some finer fabric would need French seams, but the cambric cotton tolerated the overlocking. True Bias instructions and order of construction is excellent. It was a joy to bring together this pattern and the fabric. I just need a bit of sunshine and heat to wear it. Is it okay to book a tropical getaway so you can wear an outfit? Asking for a friend.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Full disclosure: Fabric was gifted for a review but all opinions remain my own.

Ella Dress

Pattern Scout has done it again! This is the newly released pattern from Pattern Scout, and it hits the mark of a timeless classic. The Ella is a sleeveless shift dress which can be sewn on the bias, so it just skims the curves. It’s a classic with the boatneck midi dress. If you’re looking for a pattern with some skill building features, there are instructions for French seams, sewing on the bias and installing the invisible zip.

I was lucky enough to get onto the testing team. I really like testing for Casey and have sewn many of her patterns. The instructions are always comprehensive and easy to follow. The illustrations are great, and she also has a YouTube Channel which is another great reference. I’m sure she will be providing some great sew along videos for the Ella Dress. I also like the sizing especially the inclusion of cup sizes.

This pattern is drafted for woven fabric. It would suit anything light to medium weight with fluid drape. I used a rayon from East Coast Textiles. I had discovered East Coast Textiles through some sewing friends and really love their rayon. Luckily, a new batch had arrived when I was doing this pattern test. I had three meters available which was perfect for the pattern to be cut on the bias. The pattern can also be sewn straight grain which can be a fabric saver.

My measurements of 35HB:37FB: 33W:40H fits the size 12, B-cup. The pattern is drafted for an average height 5’9” (175cm). I’m slightly shorter but decided not to shorten the length with this make because I was testing the piece. There are always good instructions about fit and how to modify the pattern included with Pattern Scout Patterns. Without shortening the length, the dress does look more maxi than midi on me. I have decided to leave it as a maxi because I would wear it more.

The dress is neatly finished off with French seams and the neckline and armholes have facings. I feel like this is a great pattern for practicing some of those advanced sewing skills. I also liked the instructions for installing the invisible zip. I still haven’t bought myself an invisible zipper foot, but I think I’m used to it now. I use a normal zipper foot, but I make sure that I iron open the zip tape to sew as close as possible to the zipper teeth.

It’s nice to have a wardrobe staple like the Ella Dress. I feel that this silhouette is a classic and doesn’t date. It’s something I will return to sew again and again. I can’t wait to wear this in summer. Maybe I’ll make one that will be suitable for winter layering and add lining.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Andi Set

Brunching with other ladies who sew can be dangerous for the budget. It was during one of these brunches when I discovered East Coast Textiles and their fantastic selection of rayons. They also have other fabric, but I was mainly interested in the rayon which I bought three pieces at a bargain price. The one I’m featuring has a border print which I wanted to challenge myself with. Initially, I thought of making another pair of flint pants or a pyjama set but when I was sewing up my Andi Set Top, I thought of how this fabric would pair so well with a sleeveless version of the full Swimstyle Patterns Andi Set.

So, I set about researching how to sew with border prints. First, I had to decide how to use the border print. Seeing as there was no seam running vertically in the front of the skirt, I decided to use the border to emphasise the bottom of the blouse and the skirt. I think this was a nice way of pairing the set and adds a bit of matching detail.

The second challenge was cutting the fabric. The border runs along the selvedge on both sides, so I had to cut the pattern cross grain. We don’t usually cut cross grain because there is more stretch to the fabric this way but since the pattern pieces are not too heavy and allow for lots of drape, it’s okay for this pattern.

This was good in theory but challenging in execution. It took me a whole afternoon to figure out how to align and modify the pattern pieces to fit the border nicely. Rayon is very slippery fabric so another challenge was cutting everything accurately so the seams would line up and not interrupt the border print. I’ll try to describe what I did. For the top, I lengthened it by 1 inch but when sewing the side seams of the top, I did not match the sides according to the notch provided but by the border print. This gave me an uneven bottom edge, so I then trimmed it to even it up before finishing the bottom hem. The side seam of the Andi Top has gathers on the front bodice piece, so this is how I was able to modify it. For the skirt, I cut the pattern as it is drafted but left the bottom of the skirt straight. When I had matched and sewn the side seams, making sure my border print had matched up, I trimmed the bottom raw edge following the curve of the pattern piece before finishing the hem of the skirt. There are probably a few ways of doing this but, I found that this worked best for me. This skirt has two side splits, so it wasn’t too difficult to use the border print for this.

The sizing was true to size. I sewed the Size L for the top and the skirt without any modifications. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I decided to make the long tie for the top. I finally worked out how to use my loop turner properly which make the process a lot easier and faster. I swear that the loop turner I bought came with gave me completely different instructions which is why I’ve struggled in the past!

Instructions and illustrations are excellent with the pattern which makes it so enjoyable to sew Swimstyle Patterns. I have been gifted the pattern as part of their Ambassador Program, but they are excellent instructions and all opinions in this article remains my own. One small annoyance is that I think the pattern is made more for people who like to trace their patterns not the people who cut into them like I do! No hate please, do as you like but I tend to print the size or sizes I need and then cut accordingly. There are no size layers when you print and there’s also no differentiation of the cutting lines so it’s a bit easy to get lost. I mention this because I did! I started with the line for size L and then somehow was cutting the size M. Luckily, I had noticed quite quickly and could stick the paper to repair it.

The design is superb, and you can tell that these patterns are designed and drafted by someone with a lot of experience. The set has a beautiful look and fit. Even though the skirt has an elasticised waist, it looks sleek and well fitted. I also love the elongated tie which is an elegant part of the design. So happy with how this set turned out. I love sets because of how versatile they are. Whether you wear each piece styled independently or together.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tie Dress

Catching up with my latest make which is this beautiful newly released Tie Dress from Sewing Therapy. So, if you have been following Sewing Therapy on YouTube, you’ll also be following Sara on Instagram under the handle @yoursara_k and you can find it in her Two O Nine Fabric Etsy shop. Okay, now that you know where to locate everything, let’s talk about this uniquely versatile dress which features four ties and comes as short or long sleeves. The ties can be tied in a multitude of ways to create a different look.

It’s always a short testing period with Sewing Therapy Patterns. I’m fine this as long as it spans over a weekend. When I signed up, I was so excited to get into the testing team because it was a long weekend here in Australia. This was until I got to the fabric store and realised that it was closed for the public holiday! Luckily the store reopened the next day when I found this beautiful linen/cotton blend fabric. I love the bright large floral print. The print is bright but is also muted. Not quite pastel but halfway there.

The pattern is a great beginner’s pattern and Sara has created very comprehensive sew along videos. It’s important to know that there are written instructions but there are no illustrations in the pattern. If you are not great with videos or have no access to YouTube, then it might not qualify as a beginner’s pattern. I did find the written instructions to be logical and easy to understand but I did appreciate the videos that Sara released early to the testers especially for the attachment of the short sleeves and the ties. The methodology for the construction of the short sleeves was quite novel to me.

My sizing was fine for the test but there were some adjustments made for the larger sizes. I like testing for Sara because she’s quick to respond to testers questions and she always gives us feedback or updates as we sew. I made the size 12 (38B:33W:40H) and I would happily sew the same size again. I’ll be making the dress with the long sleeves to wear over winter.

Styling this dress is so much fun because of the ties and, you can wear it with the V neck or Boat neck. It’s never boring! The dress will also be great for layering which is why I hope to make another one soon.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Andi Set Top

So, have you ever made something thinking it might not exactly be your style and it ends up being something you absolutely love? This is the Andi Top from the Swimstyle Andi set. I was curious about the design, which is what made me apply to be a Swimstyle Ambassador in the first place. It has a certain style and flair that is so unique and when you see the drafting, you’ll know what I mean.

My version of the Andi Top has these billowy long sleeves that are attached to a bodice with a deep V and these ties that can be adjusted. I have quite a modest amount of tummy showing but the main idea is that it gives shape to the bust area without needing darts. It’s a very flattering top. I’m positively happy about the ruching created by these ties and the channels in the front.

For my measurements of 35-inch high bust, 38-inch full bust and 33-inch waist, I’ve made the Size L. It’s a great fit but it’s quite cropped so next time, I would lengthen by an inch. For this top, I sewed a narrow hem or a cheat’s rolled hem by sewing a straight stitch ¼ inch from the bottom of the hem and then pressing the hem up twice.

If you’re like me and can’t work a loop turner for all the money in the world, you could use some bias binding to make the tie for the blouse. It really saved my sanity. I know everyone has their special tool or technique, but it really stresses me out when I have to make a narrow rouleau. I simply folded the long edge to the middle and then folded over again in half and edge sewed the tie.

The Andi Top is made for woven fabric. My fabric is a sheer lightweight textured cotton. I had this on my Make Nine 2024 list where I wanted to use up nine pieces of fabric from my stash. I thought it was a perfect pairing because it’s very easy to gather this fabric. I also love the subtle texture woven into the fabric. The top probably appears quite white, but it is more of a soft beige.

I will definitely be sewing the matching skirt to this Andi Set. It’s been such an enjoyable sew. I noticed that Swimstyle Patterns have some unique features like the tabs that make it so easy and accurate to match up the pieces. I was grateful for this because my fabric did not really have a right side or a wrong side, so these tabs made it easy to tell where the pieces needed to be attached. The comprehensive illustrations helped there as well!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Lanti Swing Dress Again

I can’t believe it’s been almost two years ago when I was a tester for the release of this Sew to Grow Lanti Swing Dress pattern. I’ve always meant to come back and sew it again because I do wear the two that I’ve made a lot especially my flax-coloured version. I have really enjoyed coming back to make the pattern as I knew the modifications I wanted to make, and I was already familiar with the sizing. Also, the pattern pieces are already put together which meant I could get into the sewing part faster.

For this version of my Lanti, I wanted to use this Yarn Dyed Linen Grid Check which I bought from Megan Nielsen Patterns when she still had a shop. It’s such a beautiful quality linen that I have been hesitant to use it and also when you buy fabric ahead of time, you have to see if the pattern’s fabric requirements match your available fabric. I had 2 meters x 150cm available. The Lanti Dress comes as two versions, one is the smock style dress and the other is an A-line version. Initially, I thought I would take the opportunity to sew the A-line however, it would have wasted ¼ of the fabric. After looking to Pinterest for inspiration, I decided I wanted to make the smock style but add quite a lot of length to the skirt and to make it with short sleeves.

The smock dress has an empire waist with a boxy bodice. I kept to the size 12 that I previously made for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I modified the pattern by lengthening the skirt to 30 inches and narrowing the width of the skirt by 4 inches. I wanted to make the dress a midi length and I needed to narrow the width because the linen had a bit of body to it. It probably sits between the light and medium weight gage. Another small modification was to swap a button and button loop closure for a tie closure.

The instructions and illustrations with Sew to Grow patterns are well set out and written. However, I found myself deviating and sewing the pattern from my own preferred construction. I think that is a natural progression as you gain experience. Small things like pocket construction, seam finishes or attaching facings can all be sewn in different ways with the same outcome.

Needless to say, I’m happy with the outcome. My new Lanti Swing Dress will be easy to layer with leggings or with a cardigan thrown over. I was also experimenting with shoes. Chunky white sneakers or something neutral. The dress is so versatile and I’m looking forward to adding it to my autumn/winter capsule wardrobe.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tallulah Top

Last week, I received the very exciting news that I was part of the Swimstyle Patterns Ambassador Program! For my first pattern, I thought I would get onto sewing some resort wear for my upcoming holiday. The cutest pairing popped into my mind with the Tallulah Tie Top and the Tamarama Pants, the latter being part of its own set. I’m focussing this review on the Tallulah Top and will save the Tamarama for its own review.

The Tallulah Top is a boxy shaped top with a deep tie. It can be worn with the tie in the back or in the front. It has grown on sleeves, and it is finished with biased binding which can be ready made or there’s very detailed instructions on how to make your own. This time, I’ve chosen to save time and fabric by using ready-made.

I was quite nervous cutting into my fabric because I’ve not sewn Swimstyle Patterns before, so I was wondering about the accuracy of sizing. There was no need to worry as it was spot on for me. For my measurements of 35-inch-high bust, 38-inch full bust and 33-inch waist, the closest fit was the size L according to the sizing chart. I feel very comfortable with the fit. I decided that I’m more comfortable with the tie in the back and it falls in the perfect position to cover my bra strap.

Fabric choice is something I’m still learning about, so I was really happy that Swimstyle Patterns include an extensive list of specific suggestions. The pattern is made for woven fabrics, and it suits something lightweight and with fluid drape. I had a stash of rayon fabrics from East Coast Textiles which I had bought in anticipation of sewing something for the humid weather I’ll be travelling to. I decided it would be fun to use the Banana Leaves in Green.

The instructions printed with the PDF pattern, and I was worried that they would be too brief for me because there weren’t many pages. However, the patterns instructions are well set out with excellent illustrations that accompany the instructions in a clear and logical way. There were also photographic instructions that I could access which are a great additional reference. The pattern pieces were marvellously drafted. It felt quite architectural, and I was amazed at how everything came together. It was so enjoyable to sew something drafted in such a unique way. You can tell that this is drafted by someone who has had many year of experience in pattern drafting.

I’m looking forward exploring more of this unique drafting with my collaboration with Swimstyle Patterns.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Avola Top

Another great pattern from Cashmerette! I love this wide strapped version of this camisole top from Cashmerette. I wanted a plain white camisole top, and this is such a well-fitting top. I’m also very happy with the length as I prefer to wear my tops untucked so this lands at just the right spot for me.

I’ve used the Cashmerette sizing calculator, and it has been so accurate that I have been confidently skipping the toile. Not that it’s recommended but I’m sewing for an upcoming trip and this sizing calculator has not let me down yet! For my measurements of 35HB: 38FB: 33W, it was recommended that I sew a C Cup, size 10 bodice grading to a size 14 waist. I think it’s very comfortable and the only adjustment needed was to trim 1.5 inches off the straps.

The fabric is from my stash. It’s a beautiful white linen/cotton blend with subtle texture created by the weave. For the lining, I’ve used a white muslin. I tend to use muslin for lining because it’s very light and the weave is loose, so it’s works very comfortably as lining. Sometimes, if the lining is made from stiff cotton, it can pull the shell of the top or dress out of shape. Whatever, you use for lining must be loose and have some give.

Great wide straps that cover the bra straps

This pattern also comes as a dress. I have some fabric earmarked for the dress. This pattern is lovely as a slip dress. I want to use the other strap option which is a narrow strap and uses rings and sliders to make it adjustable. That would be something new to try as I’ve never sewn that before.

This top will be a great core item in my closet. It’s fun to make colourful dresses but it’s items like this which are the workhorse of a closet! Happy to be adding to my basics collection.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Sorrento Shorts

When Eloh Patterns released the Sorrento Shorts pattern, I was quick to jump on and buy it because I love the look of that flat front and I find semi elasticated trousers and shorts to be quite comfortable. Anything that doesn’t squeeze me in the middle! These shorts come with the bonus of extra big pockets, and I love the little flare facilitated by the pleats in the front.

It’s a straightforward pattern to sew and fit. I made a size 12 with my waist measurement of 33 inches and hip measurement of 40 inches. I did receive an email after my purchase with updated instructions about choosing the right size as the waistband is narrower than the hips. I usually look at both hip and waist measurements before deciding on a size. Sometimes I grade between sizes. I was unsure why that instruction had to be updated in the pattern? I did my usual try on before attaching my waistband and everything worked out fine in the sizing.

The pattern suggests medium weight fabric, so I chose to use some leftover poplin from my stash. Feeling very pleased that I’m working through my stash this year. If I’m honest, the motivation to get through the stash is so I can justify buying some great fabric that I’ve bookmarked. Just waiting for sales! The poplin has worked very well for the pattern.

Seam allowances. This pattern has 2cm as the seam allowance due to French seams. I must be honest and say that I overlocked my seams as I only tend to use French seams with thin, lightweight, or delicate fabrics. I know it’s the choice of the seamstress and the pattern maker but I was wondering if the French seams would be bulky in this category of fabric? I ended up trimming all my seam allowances down to 1cm to reduce bulk. I guess you can argue that 2cm is not that far from a 5/8-inch seam allowance which is quite standard for woven fabric patterns so I didn’t necessarily have to trim the seams down.

Generally, my one little criticism is a storm in a teacup because overall, Eloh patterns has impressed me. The fit, design and instructions that included illustrations are an excellent standard. I won’t hesitate to purchase more of her patterns. It was a really relaxing sew which is much needed after a stressful week. I love how sewing focusses my mind on something completely different for a while. Also, straight after sewing, I put them on, and they are superbly comfortable to wear! Great for the heatwave we are experiencing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em