Sewing blog – Page 2 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Grace Trousers

Summer is almost here, and I really need to cover some gaps in my wardrobe. I love dresses but I needed some tops and pants as well. This year A Sewing Life released their first apparel pattern. It was exactly what I was looking for. The Grace Trousers is a relaxed fit, flowy design with elasticated paper-bag waistband. It has a sewn-in tie belt in the front. It’s going to be so comfortable wearing these in summer.

When I bought the pattern, Lisa was kind enough to chat to me about fabric choices. The pattern is designed for woven fabric but needs something with a fair amount of drape. I wish I could afford silk but instead, I found some rayon which is known to be the poor man’s version of silk. I was happy to find 3 meters of this solid brick coloured rayon at my local Spotlight store. I think the solids will be a good match for some of the colourful tops that I’ll be sewing for summer.

My sizing fell between the Size 14 and 16 with my waist measurement of 33-inch and 40-inch hips. The fit instructions were to go with the bigger measurements but due to the ease in the pattern and the front rise measurements provided, I decided to sew the Size 14 without grading. I did a brief toile of the short version which helped me decide to stick to the size 14.

I couldn’t figure out from the different versions that I checked out on Instagram whether these pants were mid-rise or high-waisted. I love wearing everything high-waisted, so I’ve sewn mine to fit that way. I moved my belt ties up by 1cm to help lengthen my front rise. I’m not experienced with pants adjustment, but I thought this was just a simple way of adjusting the rise. I then had to sew the waistband down at 5cm not 6cm and when I stitched the waistband to make the ruffle for the waistband, I sewed it at 5/8-inch instead of 3cm. This probably doesn’t make sense unless you’re looking at the instructions of the pattern.

Speaking of instructions, they’re excellent. I think Lisa runs sewing classes, so everything is labelled and explained in simple terms. I think even without any sewing knowledge, you could easily understand the instructions and they have photos accompanying every step. One small part of the instruction which I would recommend revising is the first step. It says to overlock at the beginning however, the pattern pieces have notches that stick out in little triangles. Some patterns have lines which you snip into the fabric, but the Grace Trousers uses the method of cutting out from the main line of the fabric. If you serge the pieces then you would lose the notches, so I finished the seams only once the seams were sewn. I only mention this as the pattern is for absolute beginners.

My height is 167cm so with the provided measurements for inside leg and outside leg, I knew that I would have to shorten the pants. I just cut from the bottom by 2 inches. I left the extra length when I was cutting my fabric and only adjusted the pants when I came to hem them. I could have shortened the pant legs by more than 2 inches, but I wanted to sew a deep hem to weigh down the bottom of the trousers.

I’m very happy with my new summer pants. The Grace Trousers will get a lot of wear and I can’t wait to start matching it with some colourful tops.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Paloma Top

So excited to get into the testing pool for the newly released Swimstyle Patterns Paloma Top. I just loved the unique style and design immediately. The top features two ties that are sewn down at the front and are threaded through the back. These ties can be left loose, or they can be used to cinch in under the bust and waist to feature a peplum. It also features a yoke and gathering with biased binding to finish the neckline and arm openings.

This pattern is designed for woven fabric. I used a medium weight cotton that I extracted from an old doona cover. It was nice how the cotton gave it some structure but in my next version, I would use a lighter weight fabric. I have thrifted some old Saris and would been keen to experiment with that. The Saris are made from georgette fabric so it would be super lightweight and drapey. This version is my tester version so it’s not perfect but I was so excited to share it.

My sizing is always consistent with Swimstyle Patterns. My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips sat within the Size L so that is what I tested. It was pretty much spot on. There was one adjustment that all the testers agreed on, and it was quickly adjusted and remedied. Apart from that, I didn’t find any other adjustments were needed.

There was some suggestion of making a dress version of this top which I had thought of when I was making it. I think this would make such a pretty dress! I have matched this top with quite a few items already in my closet, so I know that I’ll be getting a lot of wear out of it.

I’ve been so lucky to test quite a few patterns this year. It’s an enjoyable process to help in a small way, bring a pattern to life. Testing for Swimstyle was enjoyable and stress free. I liked the testing period, and the Facebook group was helpful and communication was orderly. Looking forward to making the Paloma Top again.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Nova Coat for Frocktails

Still recovering from Frocktails 2025 which is an annual gathering of sewing enthusiasts and is hosted in many different locations around the world. It was a fun night of delightful sewing banter, finally meeting familiar faces from social media in real life and getting to fondle a lot of fabric (with permission of course!).

The process of making or thinking about what to wear for the night started many months back. I wasn’t specifically thinking about Frocktails at the time, it was just that my growing hoard of sewing scraps had been bugging me, and my husband had cleaned out his closet and found some old pairs of jeans that were not fit for donating. I think there was also a sewing challenge based around upcycling that started me down this path.

I was initially planning on only using the denim to make another Papercut Nova Coat. In this version, I wanted to make the shorter version and size down a few sizes. I have a lovely long wool version, but I’ve always needed something in a lighter weight for the in-between seasons. As mentioned, I was trying to complete a sewing challenge, but inspiration and motivation was lacking as I started to cut into the denim. So, I stopped. I’m glad I did because I don’t think I would have achieved something that I love as much as the jacket I’ve ended up with.

After a pause of another couple of months, I started to envision the jacket I wanted. I have a lovely memory of my friend Hiromi, who gave me a gift in a box that she had covered in little bits and pieces of washi paper. The gift was a beautifully folded crane, but I fell in love with the box that housed it. Each piece was thoughtfully placed but irregular. There were no regular shapes, yet it felt cohesive. To my ten-year-old eyes, it was like a multifaced piece of jewellery. I wanted my jacket to have that thoughtful but irregular placement using my scraps, but I wanted to ground the scraps with pieces of denim so that the eyes have something to rest on like an outline in a painting.

Once inspiration struck, it was easy to work out what to do next. I started by reprinting my Nova Coat pattern pieces. Last time, I had sized down from a size 4 to a size 3. I went down another two sizes to the size 1. The main consideration is the bust measurement, the sleeve length and the length of the coat. I was sewing the shorter version. The finished garment measurements are so helpful and accurate. My measurements are 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips.

The next thing I had to work out was how to place and secure my scrap pieces. Since I wasn’t making traditional quilting blocks, I decided to cut a “base” for the scraps to rest on. If you’re cringing at my lack of technical knowledge as an expert quilter, I am putting a disclaimer here that I have no experience in quilting. Do not use this as a tutorial. Mine was a joyfully creative process. Once I had the pattern pieces cut out of an old bedsheet, I could place and sew on my pieces. I made sure everything was irregular but was cohesive with the colours and contrast I was trying to create. I cut the side back panels, and pocket pieces directly from my upcycled denim without needing to sew them onto a base. It was then easy to sew everything as instructed. The Nova Jacket is fully lined. I used another old sheet for this lining. The beauty of using old sheets is that everything is so soft from being washed in.

The jacket matched my True Bias Quinn Dress which I wore for the night. I was so happy with the outcome and comfortable on the night. I’ve found this process of using my sewing scraps to be fun and creative. It’s quite an addictive process and I made the Motif Studio Origami bag using the same process. I’ll be searching for more ways to use up my scraps. I’m glad that I’ve been keeping everything, no matter how small. It’s also a lovely reminder of all my past projects.

It was so inspiring to see the beautiful outfits but also to be in a space where women support women. Lots of compliments and chatter about outfits and fabric. There was a man who came along and kudos because he won best dressed! It was an inclusive space which felt welcoming. I’ll definitely be marking it in my diary for next year.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

La Ciotat Skirt

The La Ciotat Skirt stands out as a unique wrap skirt design, offering both style and practicality. Unlike standard wrap skirts, this one features a double front wrap, eliminating any concerns about wardrobe malfunctions. The addition of a flattering waist panel contributes to its elegant silhouette, and the two ties ensure that the skirt stays securely in place.

After purchasing the pattern, I spent some time searching for the perfect fabric. Eventually, I realised that the ideal choice was already in my fabric stash: two and a half metres of Tencel fabric adorned with a Christie Williams print. This fabric had been with me for about three years, cherished for its beautiful colours and its reflection of the distinctive Australian landscape. This project finally provided the perfect opportunity to use it.

The La Ciotat Skirt pattern is comprised of rectangles for the main body and curved pieces for the waist panel. It offers flexibility, allowing sewists to either print the pattern or cut pieces directly from the measurements provided. I selected size L, which suited my measurements of a 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. The finished skirt ends just at the top of my ankles, which I find to be a flattering length. I did not need to make any modifications to the pattern.

This pattern is straightforward to sew, featuring pieces that fit together logically and a flexible skirt style that eliminates the need for a toile. Beginners will find Sewing Therapy’s YouTube tutorials especially helpful, while the written instructions are clear and beneficial for more experienced sewists. I personally enjoy watching Sara’s videos while sewing; her teaching style is both relaxing and informative.

Every time I work with a Sewing Therapy pattern or watch one of Sara’s videos, I pick up a new tip or technique. For this project, I tried her suggested method for creating gathers. Rather than using the traditional double line of long stitches, I increased the stitch length and tension, as advised. This approach produced beautiful gathers, but I would recommend leaving very long thread tails for adjustments. I nearly ran out of thread tail, but fortunately, it all worked out in the end.

My spring–summer handmade wardrobe is growing, and I’m becoming more confident in my creations. I’m looking forward to wearing my skirt on windy days and sunny days! I’m so excited to be getting around to using some of my “good” fabric.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Viola Vest

Some patterns I sew are real skill builders and the Viola Vest is one of these. I have a few things to work out with this pattern, and I considered not sharing until I made a version that I was one hundred percent happy with, but this blog has always been a journal for my sewing whether successful or not. I decided that I should jot a few notes down and come back to it.

Swimstyle Patterns has been my go-to for elegant, elevated core wardrobe items. The Viola Vest is drafted for knit fabric and has a wide V-Neck with angled, overlapped side seams. It has an oversized relaxed fit. I bought this for that relaxed oversized look.

My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips fit into the L size range so that was the pattern size that I cut. Generally, this was great. I like how the pattern also included how to choose the right fabric with what stretch and recovery was needed. I found a ribbed knit that was suitable, but I didn’t consider how bulky the ribbed knit would get. I do have a very basic home sewing machine which might have also affected my ability to deal with the bulkiness of my fabric.

The part I thought I would struggle with was the V-Neck. It actually worked very well and was easy with the excellent instructions provided. I felt that I skilled up by sewing this neckline. The part that I couldn’t work with was the angled and overlapped side seam. The side seams are neatly folded and finished before being angled to sew together about 4 layers. The folded seams provided a great finish to the vest. However, with 4 layers, I had problems getting the angle and the bulk made it hard to stitch the seam as instructed. In the end, I had to sew it with a straight stitch.

Another thing is the hem which is sewn and prepared all in one before joining the side seams. The bottom is a bit wavy so I must have pulled the fabric a bit when sewing. I’m a bit of a perfectionist and I considered unpicking and retaking the photos but I decided to leave it and try again with another fabric. I need to give myself more grace when it comes to my sewing.

So, I’m not sure if the armhole sits too low because of my modified stitching or whether this was part of the design. I need to find slightly thinner fabric to make it again but I’m not sure if I should size down. This is why I like stalking a pattern on Instagram because it’s handy to see items on other people (regardless of size).

I would have always worn this vest with a shirt or tank top underneath anyway, so I still feel this is a good addition to my closet. I’ll be trying to find another knit for this vest because I love the look so much.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Vanja Dress

Earlier this year, I entered The Cloth Edit sewing challenge called Sew April Blouse, and I won a PDF pattern from Monsterfabriken. I was so excited to win the pattern amongst all the beautiful entries and was also excited to discover a new designer. The thing I admire most about Monsterfabriken is their philosophy of making their sizing adjustable to ensure that once sewn, those garments will last therefore helping to reduce clothing waste.

It was hard to choose a pattern from their beautiful library of patterns but in the end, I settled on the Vanja Dress which is a V-neck dress or top. It has an adjustable waist with ties, or it can also be sewn with a wide belt. I made the dress version which stops at mid-calf. There are slits on the side and of course, pockets! I jumped straight into the dress version, but I do love patterns that include a version that can be toiled. I didn’t make a toile because I thought that the sizing system was so good.

Talking about the sizing system, here is where Monsterfabriken is unique. Instead of the traditional sizing system which can vary from brand to brand, they base their sizing on primary measurements of the body. The tops are then based on the chest measurements, and the bottoms are based on the hip measurements. All the other measurements are secondary. It’s all very comprehensive and in the end, you’ll end up with a garment that fits the way you want it to. Once all the measurements are done, it’s an easy process to print the only size you need and there is an option to include seamlines. I chose to print without because I have confused myself before when it was an option and ended up cutting the wrong lines.

I did hesitate a little when I had finished sewing the bodice. It was fine once I had attached the skirt and does fall at the natural waistline. This always seems to be the point where I worry the most when I’m sewing something new.

The fabric is drafted for woven fabric. I had a Jamuna vegetable dyed handblocked cotton from Spotlight which was perfect for this dress. It’s beautifully lightweight and it’s great for hot weather. I am drawn towards the cooler colours for summer with blues, greens and whites. I’ve have found picking colours for the season helpful when putting together my sewing plans.

The Vanja sewing instructions were fantastic and the illustrations also helpful. It’s important to note that Monsterfabriken is a Swedish company and I was using the English translated instructions. The layout of the instructions is logical and excellent. I also downloaded the extra instructions which you’re given a passcode for however, I didn’t need to use them because the instructions that came with the pattern bundle was sufficient.

There was one point of the instructions that did confuse me. It was in the construction of the slit. I wondered if the original pattern might have had a seam allowance of 2cm but was changed to 1cm without changing the instructions. In the end, it was easy to modify. I just continued the overlocking down the side seam. This was then turned twice to finish the slit.

I love the design of the Vanja Dress. In this version, I made matching ties for the dress. I would love to make the wide belt version and have contrasting fabric for the neckline and hem. The best past is knowing that any small size changes will be easily accommodated because of the clever design by Monsterfabriken.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Milenda Dress featuring Johanna Ralph collection from MaaiDesign

Maaidesign is launching a new fabric brand called Johanna Ralph* and I was super excited to receive a preview of the Silent Bloom print. It’s a beautiful abstract graphic married with elegance. I chose to preview the linen, but the print comes in other substrates. When this luxurious linen arrived, quite a few patterns sprang to mind. I settled on the Milenda Dress because I thought that the linen would feature the linen beautifully. Linen is great for items needing structure.

I tried making this dress about five years ago. I had just started sewing and I loved the look of the dress. Even though the pattern advises that it’s for intermediate level sewist, I jumped in and tried to sew it. I used a double gauze and instantly started making mistakes like not adding the pattern pieces to make the right length, I confused the pleat construction, I didn’t attach the bias binding or the pockets the right way. However, despite all that, I was super proud, and the Milenda Dress has ended up being a dress I’ve reached for repeatedly.

The Milenda is a classic shift dress that can be pulled over the head. The design these features pleats in the front and back which release into a skirt. These pleats are a clever feature and really help to shape the dress in a flattering way.

When this beautiful 100% linen fabric arrived from Maaidesign, I knew I had to make the Milenda Dress again. I started by giving it a cold wash and then a cool dry in my dryer. I then changed my machine needle to a universal 90/12 gage needle. Linen does wrinkle so a good press is essential before sewing. I don’t mind the wrinkles once it’s sewn but it’s good to iron it to make sure the pattern pieces remain accurate.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, I made the size M. No modifications were needed. I was so happy that I could follow the instructions to the tee! I guess I am making progress with my sewing. On a little side note, the Tessuti instructions are excellent, but the pictures are photographed not illustrated so it’s easier to follow the instruction on the computer. Everything is logical and the construction is excellent.

Don’t you love a dress with pockets? I loved how these pockets were constructed because they sit to the front. Also, the pockets are at the perfect level and are properly deep.

When I photographed the dress, I realised that the fabric is slightly gauzy and sheer. It’s still perfectly modest without needing lining. The linen is very lightweight; from memory it’s under 5 oz or 150 gsm and had a generous width of 150cm. I can’t wait to wear the dress when the weather starts to warm up. Linen is just so comfortable in summer. Looking at the Johanna Ralph collection, I think it’s going to be a hit with those bold, abstract prints.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Full Disclosure: The fabric was provided for preview and Instagram content. No blog post was required but I share everything on my blog and love documenting all my makes. All opinions remain my own.

Vera Knit Top

I’ve been trying to be more adventurous with knit fabric. I came across this floral stretch crepe jersey fabric from The Fabric Store Online which has a beautifully fine texture with good drape. I bought a 125cm x 150cm wide piece which I thought would be lovely for the Vera Knit Top pattern from Forget Me Not patterns. I’ve been meaning to sew this lovely top featuring bishop sleeves using the long cuff option for a while and finding the perfect fabric has prompted me again. One of the suggested fabrics was viscose knit which is why I thought the crepe jersey would be a good match.

Floral Stretch Crepe Jersey (White Coffee)

Forget Me Not has generously offered this as a free pattern to the sewing community and it includes all the detailed instructions that come with her other patterns. There are no short-cuts just because it’s a free pattern. It is a great way to sample their incredible patterns.

The blouse is based around a B-cup bust. My measurements of 38-inch bust, and 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip sits between a size 38 and 40. The pattern is nested which make it super easy to print. I decided to print both sizes and graded from the size 38 to 40 and added one inch to the length from the bottom of the blouse. The top features a V-neck and it’s fitted in the bust with more ease around the waist.

Knit fabric is always a bit tricky for me. I’m still gaining experience with handling the stretchy qualities of knit fabric. The instructions are excellent with tips all the way on how to handle the fabric, which needle to use and what stitch to sew with. It really takes all the guess work out which is so helpful. Another quality of the fabric I should mention is that there is more stretch one way than the other which has been fine for this blouse as the pattern is quite versatile. I would love to make a winter version with merino wool or something similar.

I’m excited to add this top to my Spring Capsule Wardrobe. I’m hoping to sew a skirt as well to wear with this, but I think it will match quite a few items I have. I know I’m categorising my sewn items into different capsules but obviously any item can be worn for any season. With my love of neutrals and browns, everything could fit into an Autumnal theme. I’ve just been organising my sewing this way to get a better cross section of items into my handmade wardrobe.

I’m feeling more confident with knit fabric coming away from this. I want to practise with this pattern a few more times so I’ll be on the lookout for more fabric suitable for this pattern.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Palisade Pants in Linen

It’s been a nice slow start back into my sewing. I wanted to do some planning and organise my sewing in this second half of the year. Sewing ad hoc can be fun and spontaneous but during Me Made May this year, I realised that I was short on a few essential items. Also, before my travels, I was madly sewing trousers so I could pack them. I want this second half of my sewing year to be calm and I want to be prepared before the season starts. Another part of my planning involved looking through all my patterns. I’m hoping to sew the unsewn patterns and to return to some which brings me to this Papercut Pattern classic, the Palisade Pants.

I made these about 2 years ago when I collaborated with Maai Design for their Lyocell Twill fabric. I get a lot of wear and have always meant to return to sew them. The unique pockets are the highlight of the design, and it is a popular pattern in the sewing community. The pants taper elegantly down to the ankles and is a slim fit but made comfortable by the semi elasticised waistband.

This version of the Palisade Pants is made with suiting linen. What’s the difference between linen and suiting linen you ask? Suiting linen is thicker and the weave is tighter. I didn’t realise the difference and have made trousers in the past from what I thought was standard linen, but they tend to lose their shape sooner and it isn’t as hard wearing as pants need to be.

When I first sewed this pattern, I toiled it using the shorts pattern. In hindsight, it wasn’t a good idea because the shorts are wider at the thighs. The pants are quite narrow fitting with less ease so I should have used toiled using the actual pants pattern. I remember sewing the size 4 with the original version but had to narrow the inner leg seams to make everything fit. This time, I cut and sewed the Size 5 without any modifications except to shorten the pants by 2 inches. When I re-read my previous blog post about the Palisade Pants, I said I sewed the size 5 but when I looked at my pattern pieces, they were the size 4 so I must have mistakenly thought I made the size 5. I reprinted and used the size 5 this time for my measurements of 33-inch waist, 40-inch hips.

The pockets are not the only unique feature of this pattern. Instead of side seams, there are centre front and back seams. It’s an interesting feature and I think it works well in making a clean, slim silhouette. It also helps with the pocket feature. In past toiles, I would baste the side seams and inner leg seams so that adjustments are fast to make but following the pattern, I couldn’t use that same method. Luckily, the size 5 was true to size for me once I had made the length adjustment and the waistband was easily adjusted because of the elastic.

I have sewn a lot of Papercut Patterns for good reason. I feel that so many items match my style, and the instructions and fit are always spot on. I really felt good about this sew and happy to tick another item off my handmade spring capsule.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Spill the Tea Tie Neck Top

There has been a lot of chatter about Pattern Emporium patterns in my sewing circle, so I’ve been keen to try them out. When the Spill the Tea blouse was released, I loved the design and thought it would fit into my Spring Capsule Wardrobe. I’ve been thinking more about how to make my handmade wardrobe more cohesive, so I’ve been playing around with collages on Pinterest. I’ve picked some highlight colours that I’d like to feature in the capsule.

The Spill the Tea Top is a tie neck top with two back options, two sleeve options and two length options. I chose to make the gathered back with a yoke, the cap sleeves and tall length. I wanted the option of leaving the top out for a more casual look. It’s so impressive at the number of options available and best of all, printing it was made very logical and easy. I really liked that it wasn’t necessary to print every page, only the relevant ones which was a good paper saver.

Yoke construction on Spill the Tea Blouse

The pattern is made for woven fabric and is quite versatile. I had a piece of georgette fabric in my stash that I bought a while ago but was a bit afraid of sewing. I thought it was a good match for the pattern because of the high drape. Excitingly, there was enough of it for the top which required about two meters. I was making the size 12 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I love the fine quality of georgette fabric, but it does add some difficulty to sewing. I tested the fabric on the overlocker and decided to use French seams because the fabric frays very easily.

Apart from the seams, I had to solve the issue of the yoke and how to finish it. I decided it would be best to cut two so that the yoke could line itself. I’ve tried to describe what I did in the steps below because I deviated from the instructions.

1. Finish the FRONT BODICE as instructed

I also finished the sleeve seams with French seams, but I think it would have been thick enough for the overlocker. French seams do give a satisfyingly neat finish. The other tips I learnt when sewing with georgette fabric is to reduce the stitch length and changed the needle to a 70/10 gage. It was also handy to use the rotator cutter for the curves.

The Pattern Emporium instructions were very detailed. It is made for reading on a screen because the illustrations are photos. The bonus is that everything is clear with contrast fabric. The instruction booklet was like a mini magazine, and I love the inclusion of all the different people modelling the blouse. I like printing my instructions but at 50 pages, I limited my printing to the sewing instructions only. I found myself deferring to the photographs when I came to the attachment of the ties. The construction was very enjoyable with the precise pattern pieces and instructions.

Overall, it was easy to see why my sewing friends fully endorse Pattern Emporium patterns. It’s been a fantastic sewing experience and a good one to get my sewjo going again. I’ll hope to share more soon about my sewing plans for my handmade Spring Capsule Wardrobe.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em