Bottoms – Page 2 – Em Sew Happy Blog

Tallulah Top

Last week, I received the very exciting news that I was part of the Swimstyle Patterns Ambassador Program! For my first pattern, I thought I would get onto sewing some resort wear for my upcoming holiday. The cutest pairing popped into my mind with the Tallulah Tie Top and the Tamarama Pants, the latter being part of its own set. I’m focussing this review on the Tallulah Top and will save the Tamarama for its own review.

The Tallulah Top is a boxy shaped top with a deep tie. It can be worn with the tie in the back or in the front. It has grown on sleeves, and it is finished with biased binding which can be ready made or there’s very detailed instructions on how to make your own. This time, I’ve chosen to save time and fabric by using ready-made.

I was quite nervous cutting into my fabric because I’ve not sewn Swimstyle Patterns before, so I was wondering about the accuracy of sizing. There was no need to worry as it was spot on for me. For my measurements of 35-inch-high bust, 38-inch full bust and 33-inch waist, the closest fit was the size L according to the sizing chart. I feel very comfortable with the fit. I decided that I’m more comfortable with the tie in the back and it falls in the perfect position to cover my bra strap.

Fabric choice is something I’m still learning about, so I was really happy that Swimstyle Patterns include an extensive list of specific suggestions. The pattern is made for woven fabrics, and it suits something lightweight and with fluid drape. I had a stash of rayon fabrics from East Coast Textiles which I had bought in anticipation of sewing something for the humid weather I’ll be travelling to. I decided it would be fun to use the Banana Leaves in Green.

The instructions printed with the PDF pattern, and I was worried that they would be too brief for me because there weren’t many pages. However, the patterns instructions are well set out with excellent illustrations that accompany the instructions in a clear and logical way. There were also photographic instructions that I could access which are a great additional reference. The pattern pieces were marvellously drafted. It felt quite architectural, and I was amazed at how everything came together. It was so enjoyable to sew something drafted in such a unique way. You can tell that this is drafted by someone who has had many year of experience in pattern drafting.

I’m looking forward exploring more of this unique drafting with my collaboration with Swimstyle Patterns.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Lotus Jar Skirt

This was a special pattern test as this is the inaugural pattern release from Linen Lab which is a family-owned fabric company based Korea. Another thing that makes this special is that they have based it on traditional Korean Hanbok. Just reading the history and background of the design was so interesting.

The Lotus Jar Skirt has a unique shape where the skirt billows out then taper back at the bottom of the skirt. The shape and how it’s held is determined by the type of fabric you use. Of course, the more structured fabrics show the shape more obviously. I’ve used two contrasting linen fabric with medium weight and drape. I’m thrilled that it’s holding that beautiful shape of the lotus jar which is so elegant. The skirt has a half elasticated waistband which is so easy to fit and wear.

The instructions are accompanied by photographs so it’s probably going to limit the use to those who work off a computer. I think you could print the instructions, but it might not be as clear. Generally, if you have some basic knowledge in sewing, it’s not hard to follow. It’s an enjoyable sew to bring together and doesn’t take too long either.

Sizing was pretty spot on for me. My waist being 33 inches and hips measuring 40 inches, I made the size 12 without any modifications. My height is 167cm and the skirt is a midi length as intended by the pattern. Conveniently, the skirt has been drafted with shortening and lengthening lines. My second favourite feature apart from the fabulous shape of the skirt are the big pockets!

I loved testing for Jo-Anna @sewingwithlinen who the designer of the skirt is. It was easy to give feedback and any questions were quickly answered. It’s a fun pattern to sew with potential for it to look different according to the fabric that you choose. There’s even the potential to hack it into an A-Line skirt! I think that Linen Lab might be making this a free pattern for their customers!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Sorrento Shorts

When Eloh Patterns released the Sorrento Shorts pattern, I was quick to jump on and buy it because I love the look of that flat front and I find semi elasticated trousers and shorts to be quite comfortable. Anything that doesn’t squeeze me in the middle! These shorts come with the bonus of extra big pockets, and I love the little flare facilitated by the pleats in the front.

It’s a straightforward pattern to sew and fit. I made a size 12 with my waist measurement of 33 inches and hip measurement of 40 inches. I did receive an email after my purchase with updated instructions about choosing the right size as the waistband is narrower than the hips. I usually look at both hip and waist measurements before deciding on a size. Sometimes I grade between sizes. I was unsure why that instruction had to be updated in the pattern? I did my usual try on before attaching my waistband and everything worked out fine in the sizing.

The pattern suggests medium weight fabric, so I chose to use some leftover poplin from my stash. Feeling very pleased that I’m working through my stash this year. If I’m honest, the motivation to get through the stash is so I can justify buying some great fabric that I’ve bookmarked. Just waiting for sales! The poplin has worked very well for the pattern.

Seam allowances. This pattern has 2cm as the seam allowance due to French seams. I must be honest and say that I overlocked my seams as I only tend to use French seams with thin, lightweight, or delicate fabrics. I know it’s the choice of the seamstress and the pattern maker but I was wondering if the French seams would be bulky in this category of fabric? I ended up trimming all my seam allowances down to 1cm to reduce bulk. I guess you can argue that 2cm is not that far from a 5/8-inch seam allowance which is quite standard for woven fabric patterns so I didn’t necessarily have to trim the seams down.

Generally, my one little criticism is a storm in a teacup because overall, Eloh patterns has impressed me. The fit, design and instructions that included illustrations are an excellent standard. I won’t hesitate to purchase more of her patterns. It was a really relaxing sew which is much needed after a stressful week. I love how sewing focusses my mind on something completely different for a while. Also, straight after sewing, I put them on, and they are superbly comfortable to wear! Great for the heatwave we are experiencing.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Blair Skirt

Another pattern test under my belt! This time it’s for True Bias and the pattern is the Blair Skirt which is a woven skirt that’s fitted through the waist and hips. It’s also got these cool pockets with inverted pleats. It is fastened by buttons down the centre front and there is an option to make your own belt. I’ve chosen to sew the midi length version but also comes in mini and maxi lengths.

When I had my first look at the pattern illustration, I pictured a khaki-coloured skirt to match the utilitarian feel of the pockets and belt. However, I found a cotton drill in a beautiful design called, “Warlukurlangu Snake Vine Dreaming”, in earthy red, yellow, and ochre tones. This fabric is a design by Ingrid Napangardi Williams who is from the Northern Territory and who began painting with the Warlukurlangu Artists Aboriginal Corporation, an Aboriginal owned and governed art centre located in Yuendumu, in 1999. I was so drawn to the dynamic forms and the beautiful display of colours. The cotton drill was the perfect medium weight woven being a heavier twill weave for the skirt but still lightweight enough to be worn comfortably.

So, this change in direction with my fabric meant that I had to think carefully about pattern placement. It was important to match the two front panels. The amount of fabric required does increase with pattern matching so I ended up with 2.5 meters of the main fabric. The pattern is quite dynamic and distinct so I decided that stacking the same fabric for pockets, button placket and waistband would make everything “too busy” for the eyes, so I’ve paired the fabric with a plain wine-coloured drill. I used a bit under half a meter of this to make a border with the waistband and button placket, and of course, the pair of matching pockets with those cool inverted pleats.

There were some minor tweaks of the sizing during testing, but I can confidently sew the size 12 again for my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. I would measure your waist and hips in sitting as well, this is something I’ve picked up from working with Cashmerette patterns and I use it when I know that a pattern is close fitting like the Blair Skirt. There is about 1” ease in the pattern.

True Bias instructions are always comprehensive with glossary, printing instructions, fabric layouts, and illustrations to match the steps in the construction. I especially enjoyed installing the button placket. Amazingly, I found the perfect buttons for the skirt. The semi circles remind me of the Aboriginal symbol for a person and the circle of these are symbolic of a campfire. It was a random find but so perfect for the fabric! Love comes in many forms with the skirt from finding the perfect fabric to the design of the skirt. It’s been fun to stretch my sewing skills by participating in another pattern test. Hopefully there will be more to come in the future.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

True Bias Dani Pants

When I first started sewing, I jumped in headfirst into sewing the Flint Pants from Megan Nielsen Pattern. It turned out quite badly, I got the sizing wrong, had no idea about grading a pattern and ended up recycling the whole thing. A sewing friend consoled me, and she said that sewing trousers is something you should work up to. So, I’m really thrilled that I’ve completed something like the Dani Pants. I feel like I’ve learnt a lot from making this pattern.

There are a few versions of the Dani. It can be made as shorts or pants and it can be fully elasticated or have a zip front. I opted for the zip front because I really want to practice this for making jeans. I still have a lot of room for improvement when it comes to installing the zip fly. The zip front is still a bit of a puzzle because my zip guard doesn’t completely match my fly shield and left front. Luckily my waistband still fits but I will need to revise and hopefully my next attempt at this works out better.

My sizing was spot on. No modifications or grading were needed. I sewed the size 12 for my waist measurement of 33 inches and hip measurement of 40 inches. I did have to shorten the hem by 4 inches for my height of 5 foot 7 (167cm). I love a partial elasticated waist as the fit is a bit forgiving.

The pattern calls for medium weight woven fabrics. I found this beautiful brown linen/cotton blend. It’s very soft and not as stiff as pure linen. I find that brown is such a great neutral for me. I’m hoping to build a bit more of a capsule around these colours. I’m going to attempt another version of these because they are so comfortable, I can already tell that I’ll be constantly reaching for these. I also want to sew them again because I don’t feel that I’ve really mastered the pattern.

The written instructions and the illustrations are excellent in the pattern. I also used the sew along photos on the blog. I think my struggle with the pattern was that I was unfamiliar with how a zip fly should look at the end. I did end up inspecting one of my husband’s old trousers and don’t tell him, but I did unpick the fly shield a little bit to see where the zip should sit. I tend to install a lot of invisible zips, so I think that I installed my zip too far forward. I can’t quite figure where the zip teeth should be placed. Still confused to be honest.

The rest of the sew was smooth sailing. I love how the side seam pockets have a facing and I thought the method for installation were the best I’ve ever done. It’s so neat that none of the pocket bag shows when you sit down. The whole pattern is full of professional tips and techniques. I’m so impressed by the end result. I can’t quite believe that I’ve come so far in my sewing. The memory of that first pair of pants I made still makes me giggle.

Oh! Just a side note, do not inspect my buttonholes too closely. My machine usually does the whole thing automatically once it’s set but on that day, my thread broke a few times which meant that I had to rethread but then the machine has lost it’s place in the process. I prefer to do them manually but haven’t figured out a way to do that. It was a very frustrating and a lot of colourful language was used in the process!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Mave Skirt

Sewing the Mave Skirt from True Bias is on my 2023 Make Nine Plans. I’ve never been able to sew everything on my Make Nine list but I’m quite hopeful on achieving it this year as I check another make off my list! The Mave Skirt is an elastic waist skirt with lots of options. I’ve sewn the maxi, three-tiered ruffle version.

With the seasons changing, the maxi skirt is such an easy item to wear when the weather is still so unpredictably hot or cool. I find it to be a good piece in the wardrobe for the autumn or spring months. I used to avoid maxi skirts because I felt it made me look too frumpy, but I think there is a general rule for avoiding that and that is the rule of thirds. Because the skirt is so long, it’s a good idea to wear it with a top that is shorter like a crop top or something that can be tucked in. I feel that this has made it work for my proportions.

The Mave Skirt Pattern is made for woven fabrics. I’ve made a fuller version using broderie anglaise fabric which I fully lined. The instructions for adding the lining are also included in the pattern. This pattern can be sewn in no less that eight versions! Basically, once you have this pattern, there is no need to buy any other elastic skirt pattern.

I made the size 12 for my measurements of 33-inch waist and 41-inch hips (seated). There is obviously a lot of ease in the fit of the hips, so I mainly used my waist measurements to pick the right size. The construction was easy and very beginner friendly. Sometimes sewing something simple is exactly what you need for a relaxing sew. True Bias patterns always come with comprehensive instruction and illustrations. You never have to puzzle over the instructions.

I should mention that the elasticised waistband was a bit challenging for me. Not the fault of the pattern but my own skill levels. The waistband had to be stitched at regular intervals in four lines to even out the gathers and flatten the waistband. I had traced the lines for these elongated stitches, but I wish I had just used my machines seam guides. I think I would have achieved much straighter lines. It’s probably not anything anyone would notice unless I bother to tell them and it’s a detail I’ll soon forget as I enjoy wearing my lovely maxi skirt.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Elmwood Skirt

The Elmwood is the Pattern of the Month for Cashmerette Club*. I’ve always loved the classic look of the 1950s. The pencil skirt was such a staple in that era with the narrow, hip hugging silhouette with the hem just skimming the bottom of the knees. This version also has chic pockets which stay flat when sitting.

I was lucky enough to receive a preview of this pattern as part of a collaboration with Cashmerette Patterns. I always start by making a toile of the pattern. This skirt is fully lined so it was easy to make a toile with lining fabric. Looking at the fitting chart, my waist measurement of 33 inches sits between the size 12 and size 14. My hip measurement of 38 inches sits more towards the size 10. So, I put my measurements into the Cashmerette size calculator which advised me that I could sew a size 12 waist and grade to a size 10 hip. My first toile with the graded hip felt too snug for me which I soon resolved when I re-read the instructions.

When I re-read the instructions, it tells you to measure your hip and waist in sitting. I’ve never considered this before, but I have been using some of the wonderful resources available to Cashmerette Club members regarding fitting. It seemed like a good idea as the skirt is so fitted and there isn’t much ease. I’m glad I remade these measurements in sitting because my hips were now at 40 inches. I found that sewing the straight size 12 was the best fit. So, in the future where there is only a small amount of ease in the fabric, I will continue to use this tip of measuring when sitting as well as the usual standing measurements.

The Elmwood skirt is for woven fabrics. I’ve used a wool/linen blend from Potter and Co. It’s beautifully soft in a grey/brown tone. It feels quite luxurious to wear as it’s fully lined. There’s the usual split in the back of the pencil skirt which makes it easy to move in. I’ve needed something a bit dressier for meetings and this skirt really fills a gap. I’m thinking of making a denim version for casual wear.

The instructions and illustrations are very comprehensive in Cashmerette Patterns. I found it easy to follow. One of the skills I’ve gained in sewing this pattern is learning how to do blind hems on my machine. I have hand sewn blind hems before especially with my kids’ school uniforms. Sewing the blind hem by machine works out easier and is a lot more even than my hand sewing!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

*Full Disclaimer: This pattern was sent to me for collaboration with Cashmerette. All opinions expressed are my own.

Flint Pants

A couple of Christmases ago, my lovely sister-in-law gave me a voucher for Tessuti Fabrics. I had just ventured into sewing and didn’t dare sew with “good fabric” yet. I was so excited to be able to choose this beautiful chambray fabric. I bought two metres and then lost the nerve to cut into it! So now with a bit more sewing experience under my belt, I knew it would be a good match for the Flint Pants pattern from Megan Nielsen Patterns. The flint pants are a wide leg cropped pants. This wide leg cropped pants with the hidden pocket opening can be called a classic in the sewing community. I decided to make View B of the pattern which has the cute tie closure on one side.

The chambray is buttery soft and has beautiful drape. I prepared it by putting it through the cold cycle in the washing machine and then air-drying it. I then ironed it once dry. Chambray might look like denim but it’s a plain weave cotton unlike the twill weave of denim so it’s great for floaty breezy relaxed items and a lot easier to wear in hot weather. I used a universal sewing needle and matching thread. The pattern called for 2.5 metres of fabric but I could comfortably cut the pattern pieces from the 2 metres of 150cm width of chambray that I had.

My sizing for Megan Nielsen patterns sits between a size 12 and a size 14. My measurements are 33-inch waist and 39-inch hips. I decided to use the size 14 waist and graded to a size 12 in the hips. I could have also just sewn the size 14 straight, but I wanted the nice taper from the waist to hip before it flares out to the legs. I also shortened the rise by 5/8 inch. I’m finding it easier to adjust the fit with more experience which is making sewing my me-made wardrobe so rewarding. Another small change I made was to sew the button to the inside of the waistband. I wanted to put two buttonholes to the inside to make the fit more flexible. I’m sure I’m not unique in my weight fluctuating between sizes.

As usual, the instructions for the construction were easy to follow. I have always recommended Megan Nielsen Patterns to anyone starting out. I sometimes joke that Megan Nielsen taught me how to sew. It was one of those patterns that I couldn’t put down once I started sewing so I completed the pattern between binge watching The Crown on Netflix in one day.

A sign of a good pattern is one that you want to sew again straight after you’ve finished! Also, I wore it out straight away to the Spring Festival at King’s Park. We’ve been having some glorious weather and the wildflowers are in full bloom.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Opal Pants

When I was looking for a relaxed fit pair of trousers for an upcoming getaway, I had initially dismissed the Opal Pants because I thought the tapered trousers would be a tighter fit and also, I didn’t want to sew something with a paper-bag waistband which is often styled with a shirt tucked in. I wanted something loose with no tucking in required. Basically, I was searching for the ultimate secret pyjamas!

I started to do some research and was close to getting the Sew House Seven Free-range Slacks, but Megan Nielsen Patterns had a mid-year sale which made me have a closer look at the Opal Pants. I then realised that the paper-bag waistband was interchangeable with a normal elasticised waistband. The other reason I bought the pattern was that I thought I would get more out of the pattern in the future as it has more options than the Free-range Slacks.

My size at the moment is 33 waist and 40 hips. According to the sizing chart, I’m towards the 14 in the waist and size 12 with the hips. I chose to sew the size 14. As mentioned before, I was looking for a relaxed fit. I didn’t toile this make which can be a disaster, but I have sewn a lot of Megan Nielsen Patterns and I know my sizing sits well in the size 12 and size 14. I’ll probably sew this in a size 12 in the future as it’s very roomy especially with the elasticated waistband. Luckily, I had opted to include the belt loops and the belt.

There are different pocket options included which is always good because it’s these little customised details that make it more unique. I chose the in-seam pockets for this make. It would be interesting to have a look at hacking some cargo style pockets and to have back pockets too. I’m just lazy at ironing pockets so I went with the easiest ironing option!

One little customisation that I added, which is not included in the pattern, was the cuffed trouser leg hem. I used the regular inseam measurements but shortened by 2 inches. I then made a pair of cuffs and sewed this on the right side, finishing with my overlocker. I then folded the cuff up and sewed the cuffs permanently in place by blind stitching on the inner and outer seams. I think it adds to that “relaxed” holiday look.

My fabric is a heavyweight textured slub linen which is an oatmeal colour. Oatmeal is such a great neutral. I have a pair of wide leg Pietra Pants that I’ve made with the same colour and it goes with everything. It would also be nice to sew this with Tencel or Lyocell (same but different) or even a cotton. Just making mental notes for a future make. I think if I was making the paper-bag waisted option, I would try a lighter weight fabric.

There are only good things to say about the instructions. As usual, Megan Nielsen Patterns are logical and easy to follow. I also appreciate the extra tutorials which are emailed to you once you purchase the pattern. It’s great to have those sew-alongs with photos and it’s all set out by category which makes it less overwhelming when you’re tackling a new project. I’ll enjoy having this included in my holiday capsule wardrobe!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Carrie Skirt

So many good things to say about this pattern! Where to start? The Carrie Skirt is a newly released pattern from Vanessa Hansen Studio. I find Vanessa’s patterns to be very fashion forward which comes from her background in the fashion industry. The Carrie Skirt has a fitted yoke which then flares out to a full gathered skirt. It comes in a high waisted version and a natural waisted version. She also added lacing to the back of the skirt as an option which cinches the waist in but gives the fit some flexibility.

The pattern is made for woven fabrics. Fabrics such as viscose, rayon, Tencel were popular amongst the testing team. I’ve used a very lightweight denim in my version. It really looks best with some drape but using such fabric will need a lot of stabilising for the yoke as the fit is crucial for the look of the skirt. I’m not an expert in fit so found the yoke to be quite challenging but Vanessa acknowledges this in the pattern and provides very detailed notes on fit. I took it slowly, followed the fit notes step by step and checked at each stage that the yoke was fitting. Once that part is worked out, the rest of the sew was a breeze!

A high point of my Carrie Skirt make was the instalment of the invisible zipper. Casting my mind back to my first invisible zipper, it had just been a relief to be able to get it on, but it was gaping, the sides did not match and it was clearly not invisible. You’ll understand then why I did a happy dance when I installed this zipper without having to refer to instructions. I did an extra happy dance when everything matched up when zipped up and works like an invisible zipper should!

My measurements fitted between size 12 and size 14 and I made the natural waistline version. I started by printing the pattern with both of those sizes. I really like it when PDF patterns have their sizes in layers, it really makes putting together the pattern easier. In the toile, I decided to cut the size 14 and followed the instructions to pinch and adjust the panels of the yoke. Another feature of the pattern is the option for topstitching. I haven’t included that in mine, but I love how a detail such as topstitching can make such a difference to the look of a garment. I’ll be trying it out in the future especially if I make it in a plain fabric.

This skirt can be styled in so many ways. I love how you can pair it with a t-shirt and a pair of sneakers in summer. Dress it up with a jazzy blouse and heels for a night out or boots and turtleneck for a cosy winter outfit.

I don’t usually talk too much about personal life but the period during this pattern test was quite topsy turvy! I had a failure of confidence which was brought on by time pressures as I was also preparing to speak at a conference. Then as that weekend approached, covid visited my youngest which added to the stress (thankfully, fully recovered). What I was grateful for was Vanessa’s calming influence and reassurance. In fact, I was so surprised that I managed to finish the Carrie Skirt before the deadline which Vanessa had kindly reassured me that I didn’t need to meet.

I’ve really enjoyed sewing another beautiful pattern from Vanessa Hansen Studio and hope it does well during its launch! I was so happy to be able to complete this pattern even though I was sidelined in the middle of the testing period. Again, Vanessa is always so generous with her time and knowledge during the test and I felt that I learnt so much!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em