Needle and Eye Pattern is new to me. I was fascinated by Mia’s minimalist but classic designs. It was the Emma Top that caught my eye and I was excitedly waiting for the release of the pattern when she reached out to see if I wanted to try a pattern. I was super excited and of course, I jumped on the chance to collaborate.
The pleated sleeves caught my eye. This is the special twist that she gives all her patterns. The simple silhouette with a special detail. I love the ¾ sleeves on this V-Neck, A-line top. The way that everything is finished so beautifully is something to enjoy in this pattern.
This pattern does not include seam allowance. It did stop me in my tracks at first because this is the first time I’ve come across this. I’ve read that designers do this to increase accuracy with sewing. It can also be a way to provide flexibility with the seam allowance to accommodate different fabric substrates. There were a few options for adding the seam allowance. If experienced, trace and cut straight onto the fabric. I felt that I needed some help judging where to cut. I think some people use a double tracing wheel or magnets that can be attached to the scissors. I looked in our local Spotlight Stores and couldn’t find what I needed so I decided to stick the pattern pieces onto butcher’s paper and then add in the seam allowances accordingly.
I made a wearable toile because I was worried about my method of adding the seam allowance. I had some leftover cotton fabric which have these raised spun threads through the fine lightweight fabric. The toile worked well but I knew that for my final version, I needed a sturdier woven to help hold the shape of the pleated sleeves. The toiles confirmed my size of 42 for my measurements of 38-inch (97cm) bust, 33-inch (84cm) waist and 40-inch (102cm) hips. I tried the pleats for the sleeve in the toile, but it didn’t hold the shape very well because the fabric had too much drape, so I ended up taking the pleats out which is an option for the pattern.
For my next version, I chose a midweight linen. I’m really happy with this choice! It really showcases the sleeve pleats. Everything about this top is pleasing! The construction order and instructions were excellent to follow. It’s concise but with enough extra detail to guide a confident beginner. The blouse has set-in sleeves which gives it a shapelier fit and is so comfortable when you’re moving your arms. It passes my dinosaur arm test.
Mia has mentioned in her posts about the Emma Top that it is also possible to use a sweater jersey or interlock fabric. I plan to try this out soon as our weather is cooling down fast. I think for a thicker fabric, I would want to size up one size but I’m not sure. It would be a stable knit, so I don’t think you’d need to account for the stretch in the fabric.
Needle and thread patterns has been a delightful discovery. I’m hoping to try a few more patterns. I feel so lucky to have been provided the pattern to review but all opinions remain my own. I’m so impressed by the ethos of this company to provide high quality, modern and versatile patterns. The Emma Top has been a good introduction to this.
Thanks for reading and happy sewing!
X Em
Full disclosure: Pattern was gifted but all opinions remain my own.
Em Sew Happy Blog 