Patterns And Fabrics – Em Sew Happy Blog

Calvin Wrap Dress

Having made the Calvin Top a couple of weeks ago, it was a quick job to bring it together for the dress. The True Bias Calvin comes as a top and a dress version. The pattern features exposed bias binding that becomes the ties of the dress. The dress is midi length with a generous wrap front. My favourite feature and what I bought the pattern for, is the adjustable straps.

The bonus of making the top as a wearable toile was being able to test out fabric choice as well. The linen worked really well for the top but once I had worn it, I decided I wanted a drapier fabric for my dress version. I’ve always loved the Atelier Brunette brand of fabric. I was so happy to find 3 meters of the Kaola Pecan Pie in Viscose from Maaidesign online fabric store. They stock such a huge range of beautiful fabric.

I made the size 12 for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. Wrap dresses have the advantage of being adjustable so it’s easy to adjust. The pattern is interesting because the back panels have a slight curve to it which makes it skim the body in a flattering way.

I used the same fabric to make the bias binding. The exposed bias which become the straps and there is a fair amount. I was just mindful that I wanted to use my fabric with the least amount of waste, so I angled the binding just slightly off bias. I was very happy with the result, and I still have a small amount left for a future project.

This dress deserved special fabric because I was making it to wear to my daughter’s graduation ceremony. It just feels like yesterday that I was dropping her off at kindergarten, and it feels surreal that we are passing this milestone. The ceremony was held outdoors, and it was a hot and windy afternoon. Luckily, the wrap in the front was generous and there was no risk of wardrobe malfunction. I had also put in the optional snap to avoid any chance of gaping in the bodice, but it felt very secure anyway.

It felt so good to make and wear this dress. True Bias patterns are one of my most sewn patterns because they are reliable and truly elegant designs. The instructions and illustrations are excellent and I was able to sew this in one weekend. I love that now this dress will be a permanent reminder of this precious milestone for our family.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Tie Dress No 2

When Sara asked for testers for the Sewing Therapy Tie Dress No 2, I immediately put my hand up because the Tie Dress has been one of my tried-and-true patterns for a while now. I just love how adjustable the ties are and it’s a dress that is always comfortable. This second version of the Tie Dress comes with a button placket or a wrap front. There is also an option for short sleeves or long sleeves. I decided to test the wrap front, short sleeve version but I will probably be going back to sew all the versions.

Testing is always breakneck speed because Sara is an incredibly hard-working creative. She has produced a vast catalogue of patterns, each one beautifully drafted and detailed and each one come with written instructions and sew along videos accompanying them. She produces everything to a superb quality. It’s the same with her testing, she responds to questions and feedback so quickly that I think, did she have time to sleep yet? I hope so! Being on the other side of the world, I was always amazed at how promptly she could reply. The thorough testing means that the pattern comes together perfectly for the person sewing and the construction is logical and easy to follow.

My version is the Size 12 without any modifications for my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip. I really like how the wrap sits and there is no risk of it gaping. The dress is midi length or short. I was testing length and I left mine slightly longer than the midi it was drafted for.

The Tie Dress No 2 is drafted for woven fabric. I was excited to find some midweight linen-cotton which was perfect for the pattern. I did also put together another dress for the test which I will finish soon where I used up a mix of gingham fabric. I think any stable woven fabric is great for this dress.

Sara has done it again with this dress pattern. I see myself sewing this pattern again with the longer sleeves when the weather starts to cool down. I love how this version of short sleeves are ruffled which is a cute feature. I’m loving how comfortable this dress is to wear as well. Having the adjustable ties means that there will never be a day where this dress is too tight or big to wear. I think that’s why I keep returning to make the tie dress. It’s been great to be sewing and testing again especially in a supportive and creative environment.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Calvin Wrap Top

Choosing my first project for the year has been hard and I’ve been dithering. So instead of sewing, I cleaned my sewing space, and I was inspired when I came across this awkward piece of leftover fabric from my collaboration with Maaidesign last year when they were featuring designs from Johanna Ralph. This fabric design is named Silent Bloom which features a beautiful abstract design.

I had about half a meter leftover and a long strip which was about 15cm in width. I had enough for the bodice pieces because the fabric width was about 150cm. What I struggled with was fitting the bias pieces for the ties and straps. I considered using pre-made bias binding or perhaps a contrast binding. However, I’ve been trying to be more conscious about fabric waste, so I decided to cut on a bias but not a true bias. I made sure that I cut the neckline piece on a true bias but not the longer strips.

For my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I chose to make the size 12 without any modifications. The Calvin is a wrap top or dress. Ultimately, I want to make the dress, but the top makes a great wearable toile for the dress. The straps are adjustable and one of the reasons why I wanted to sew this pattern was to learn how to install the bra sliders that make the straps adjustable. The instructions were fantastic to learn and sew from which is why I return repeatedly to True Bias patterns to learn new skills.

A word on my bra sliders, the ring is right but the sliders are not. They would normally be used for detachable straps but these were the only ones available at my local Spotlight store so I just bought them but I’m planning to swap them over when I can get hold of the right sliders. Those with an eagle eye have probably already spotted them from my Instagram reels.

Happily, the slight change with the longer strips of bias binding worked fine. The pattern came together quite fast and I didn’t feel a need to modify anything. I was worried about the length of the top before starting but didn’t change it because it’s a toile for the dress. I’m very happy with the top length which hits below the natural waist.

I’m now looking forward to sewing the dress version. Using the linen was fine for the top but I’m thinking about drapier fabric for the dress. Making this top has me so excited about sewing again. I didn’t realise how much I was missing it until sitting back at my sewing machine. It has been a bit of respite from a tumultuous and distressing end to 2025.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Rectangle Top

When I bought this pattern, I didn’t expect to be making such a playful, elegant blouse just from two pieces of rectangles. I’ve been using Sewing Therapy patterns for a while now and have come to expect reliable, beautiful patterns from Sara who is the creative behind Sewing Therapy Patterns. This blouse really exceeded all expectations. I’ve made the View A, but I can see myself making View B and C as well soon.

Best of all, Sara drafted this top to use up remnants. For this top, I used some remnant polka dotted rayon. It was something I bought from East Coast Textiles which is sadly no longer trading. I chose the rayon because of the fluid drape of the fabric which suits the shirring. I like how Sara has a table setting out detailed instructions on how to choose the right fabric. I would have loved this when I first started sewing because fabric choice only improves with experience and I use to agonise over it, sadly sometimes making a mistake.

For the Size L, I used less than 1 meter of fabric. I chose the L from my bust measurement of 38 inches. It’s a very beginner friendly pattern for sizing because there is such a range and ease in the pattern. I really love how the shape is given by stitching and shirring. Speaking of shirring, I had almost forgotten how to do it. Sara does explain it very well in the pattern, but I find that my machine is always the exception when it comes to these things. I tested on a scrap piece of fabric, but it didn’t work. I found that for my machine, I had to wind the shirring elastic onto the bobbin with a bit of tension, and I had to turn up my machine tension. I also followed the instructions in increasing my stitch length. The main thing is to test before starting on the real piece.

Sewing Therapy Instructions always come with YouTube videos which are wonderfully high quality. This time, Sara has included beautiful hand drawn illustrations with her written instructions which are so useful too. I watch Sewing Therapy videos for general relaxation anyway. It’s the perfect Sunday afternoon reset activity.

I have some remnant linen which I will be using up with my next rectangle blouse. This project was a quick sew which is great when time or energy is short. It’s also a good project for those last minute makes when you have an event you need something for. Overall, a fun few hours of sewing!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Ayla Pants

Sewing with knit fabric has always been an area that I find challenging. Initially, I believed I could simply steer clear of it, but as my sewing experience grew, I realised I would be missing out on many wonderful and comfortable additions to my handmade wardrobe. The Ayla Pants is the latest release from True Bias, and I’ve been lucky enough to be invited onto the testing team. It’s the perfect entry level knit garment to sew.

The Ayla Pants are wide leg, pull-on knit pants. There are two views, and I chose to sew View A which does not have the seam down the front and back leg pieces that View B has. It’s a very quick sew because there are only two pattern pieces and the waistband folds down from those pieces.

Knit fabric is still quite a mystery to me but I think the pattern really breaks down what sort of knit fabric to look for. There is a stretch ruler and a list of the types of knits that would suit the project. I found an olive-green Ponte which feels so soft to wear. It’s a thick double-knit fabric which is firmer, thicker and more stable than other knit fabrics. I think my choice of fabric is quite good for a more casual look so next time I would like to explore something for a dressier look, perhaps in black.

I chose to change my needle to a ball-point needle and sewed mine on my sewing machine and then used the overlocker to finish my seams, but it would be fine to use the overlocker throughout. I used the sewing machine with the instructed stitch lengths, and it really worked well! I also like to sew on the machine first in case I had to make any adjustments. Speaking of adjustments, I sewed the instructions as is and as this was a tester, I did not make any adjustments. I like to show the piece as drafted by the designer unless they have explicitly instructed us to change it. I think this gives clearer feedback. There has been a slight adjustment to the rise based on everyone’s feedback which is great because I’ve always found True Bias Patterns are very reliable on their sizing.

The size I tested was the size 12 which is my standard for True Bias. For my measurements of 33-inch waist and 40-inch hip, I found the pattern was true to size. I did give some feedback about where the waist landed for me. Again, True Bias always gets the pattern to a high standard before sending it out for testing which makes it so easy. The instructions were faultless. Illustrations were also included step by step which really helps a visual learner like me.

Although knit fabric sewing is still more challenging to me than sewing wovens, I’m glad I’m over my fear-avoidant phase when it comes to sewing knit. Knits are comfortable and easy to wear due to the stretch and flexibility of the material. It’s also durable and easy to wash and wear without needing to iron!

The Ayla Pants is such a stylish and comfortable pair of pants which can easily be dressed up or down. The wide leg design means that it can be worn with boots in winter or it can be easily paired with chunky sneakers and a tee for summer. I’m really looking forward to wearing this. Most importantly, I’m gaining valuable sewing experience because of fantastic resources that patterns like this provide for home sewists.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Fern Dress

Featuring Linen from Maaidesign Artist Collection

Maai Design have launched the third drop of their Artist Collection; this time featuring Gabriela Larios and Alison Willoughby. For the collaboration, I was offered three meters of fabric of my choice. I decided on the Strawberry Poem in Linen by Gabriela Larios. I thought it would be the perfect match for the By Galia Patterns Fern Dress which needs a lightweight to medium woven fabric with soft drape.

The Fern Dress is a classic dress design featuring round neck and a gathered skirt. It’s loose fitting which is adjustable with waistline ties that can be tied front and back or on the sides. Galia has included so many options with this dress. It’s something that can be sewn in so many ways and each version could be different. I decided to sew the half-length puff sleeves with elasticated hem. I went with the button closure in the back. Best of all, there are pockets!

There is something about Galia’s patterns that makes you feel so good. The fit description is so accurate. With my measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips, I sewed the size 10. My waist measurements do fall between the size 10 and size 12 but I decided not to grade as there is a lot of ease in the pattern (looking at the finished measurements). The dress is midi length which I did not have to adjust for my height of 167cm. I love how the dress falls below my knees at mid-calf.

Linen is so easy to sew with. I always start by washing and ironing my fabric. I love to line dry my fabric but throw it in the dryer at your own risk, the care instructions do not recommend it. The fabric is quite broad at 140cm but it’s important to note that the pattern does not go all the way to the end. The Fern Dress pattern used most of the fabric which was a relief.

The fabric is 150g/m2 (5oz) which sits at the top end of lightweight and bottom end of medium weight. I used a universal 90/14 gage sewing needle which worked well for the fabric. I finished the seams on an overlocker without any issues. The skirt needed quite a bit of gathering and again, there were no issues doing this with the linen.

Sewing By Galia’s patterns is such a pleasure with her detailed instructions. I feel that as a home sewist, I really appreciate the extra details that Galia puts into her pattern instructions. For example, she instructs double stitching under the arm. The first time I sewed By Galia patterns, the illustrations were hand drawn but for the Fern Dress she has chosen to use photographs which also work well. I only have a black and white printer and I’m not great at following written instructions on the computer while I sew so I printed the instructions but when needed, I referred to the photos as needed on the computer.

It was wonderful to sew this dress. I didn’t make a toile because I felt so confident in Galia’s fitting notes. It’s always a pleasure to collaborate with Maai Design because they consistently curate the most beautiful designs to marry to the best quality fabric. They also allow creativity and choice in the collaboration which means that I will wear my dress for many more years to come. I’ve been a faithful subscriber to Maai Design since I started sewing and I’ve never been disappointed. Sewing with good fabric is an investment. Cut that good fabric and enjoy it!

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Ruffle Tote

There are moments when undertaking a small, manageable project provides the perfect boost for motivation and delivers quick satisfaction. The Motif Studio Ruffle Tote is an ideal example of such a bite-sized project, offering both a sense of accomplishment and enjoyment in a short amount of time.

This project is ideal for utilising fabric scraps efficiently. My goal was to repurpose small pieces of fabric and offcuts from previous garment sewing projects. Consequently, the initial stage involved creating the material required for the tote’s exterior. To refine my approach, I consulted the Instagram Sewing community and incorporated several valuable suggestions and recommendations. The following guidelines emerged:

Use fabric of consistent weight.
Join fabric pieces with ¼ inch seams.
Attach all pieces to a backing such as interfacing, lining fabric or batting.
Once assembled, use a quilting ruler (available in various sizes) to trim the fabric to the required dimensions.
Sew the trimmed squares onto interfacing, then stitch the seams at ¼ inch.
Press the seams as you progress.
After completion, trim and press the seams flat.

I am grateful for the valuable advice and support provided throughout this project. The tradition of quilting, passed down through generations, is clearly reflected in the thoughtful guidance I received. I sincerely appreciate the encouragement offered as I worked on my project.

The Ruffle Tote is fully lined on the inside and has an internal pocket. It has two long handles and an optional tie which I skipped. I used some leftover green cotton drill for the lining and handles and a remnant piece of linen from my scrap collection. The ruffle was made from leftover gingham.

The Ruffle Tote comes in three sizes. I chose to make the medium size. I’m keen to now try the large size as I can see myself using a large one for the beach. The sewing experience was excellent due to the superb instructions. I tend to use the instructions off my computer because there are photos that accompany the written instructions. These would be excellent for true sewing beginners.

Photos for scale of the Medium Size Ruffle Tote

Perhaps this will encourage anyone feeling stuck with sewing to start a small project. Sewing has brought me a lot of happiness, and I truly value the relationships I’ve built through it.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Grace Trousers

Summer is almost here, and I really need to cover some gaps in my wardrobe. I love dresses but I needed some tops and pants as well. This year A Sewing Life released their first apparel pattern. It was exactly what I was looking for. The Grace Trousers is a relaxed fit, flowy design with elasticated paper-bag waistband. It has a sewn-in tie belt in the front. It’s going to be so comfortable wearing these in summer.

When I bought the pattern, Lisa was kind enough to chat to me about fabric choices. The pattern is designed for woven fabric but needs something with a fair amount of drape. I wish I could afford silk but instead, I found some rayon which is known to be the poor man’s version of silk. I was happy to find 3 meters of this solid brick coloured rayon at my local Spotlight store. I think the solids will be a good match for some of the colourful tops that I’ll be sewing for summer.

My sizing fell between the Size 14 and 16 with my waist measurement of 33-inch and 40-inch hips. The fit instructions were to go with the bigger measurements but due to the ease in the pattern and the front rise measurements provided, I decided to sew the Size 14 without grading. I did a brief toile of the short version which helped me decide to stick to the size 14.

I couldn’t figure out from the different versions that I checked out on Instagram whether these pants were mid-rise or high-waisted. I love wearing everything high-waisted, so I’ve sewn mine to fit that way. I moved my belt ties up by 1cm to help lengthen my front rise. I’m not experienced with pants adjustment, but I thought this was just a simple way of adjusting the rise. I then had to sew the waistband down at 5cm not 6cm and when I stitched the waistband to make the ruffle for the waistband, I sewed it at 5/8-inch instead of 3cm. This probably doesn’t make sense unless you’re looking at the instructions of the pattern.

Speaking of instructions, they’re excellent. I think Lisa runs sewing classes, so everything is labelled and explained in simple terms. I think even without any sewing knowledge, you could easily understand the instructions and they have photos accompanying every step. One small part of the instruction which I would recommend revising is the first step. It says to overlock at the beginning however, the pattern pieces have notches that stick out in little triangles. Some patterns have lines which you snip into the fabric, but the Grace Trousers uses the method of cutting out from the main line of the fabric. If you serge the pieces then you would lose the notches, so I finished the seams only once the seams were sewn. I only mention this as the pattern is for absolute beginners.

My height is 167cm so with the provided measurements for inside leg and outside leg, I knew that I would have to shorten the pants. I just cut from the bottom by 2 inches. I left the extra length when I was cutting my fabric and only adjusted the pants when I came to hem them. I could have shortened the pant legs by more than 2 inches, but I wanted to sew a deep hem to weigh down the bottom of the trousers.

I’m very happy with my new summer pants. The Grace Trousers will get a lot of wear and I can’t wait to start matching it with some colourful tops.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

Paloma Top

So excited to get into the testing pool for the newly released Swimstyle Patterns Paloma Top. I just loved the unique style and design immediately. The top features two ties that are sewn down at the front and are threaded through the back. These ties can be left loose, or they can be used to cinch in under the bust and waist to feature a peplum. It also features a yoke and gathering with biased binding to finish the neckline and arm openings.

This pattern is designed for woven fabric. I used a medium weight cotton that I extracted from an old doona cover. It was nice how the cotton gave it some structure but in my next version, I would use a lighter weight fabric. I have thrifted some old Saris and would been keen to experiment with that. The Saris are made from georgette fabric so it would be super lightweight and drapey. This version is my tester version so it’s not perfect but I was so excited to share it.

My sizing is always consistent with Swimstyle Patterns. My measurements of 38-inch bust, 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips sat within the Size L so that is what I tested. It was pretty much spot on. There was one adjustment that all the testers agreed on, and it was quickly adjusted and remedied. Apart from that, I didn’t find any other adjustments were needed.

There was some suggestion of making a dress version of this top which I had thought of when I was making it. I think this would make such a pretty dress! I have matched this top with quite a few items already in my closet, so I know that I’ll be getting a lot of wear out of it.

I’ve been so lucky to test quite a few patterns this year. It’s an enjoyable process to help in a small way, bring a pattern to life. Testing for Swimstyle was enjoyable and stress free. I liked the testing period, and the Facebook group was helpful and communication was orderly. Looking forward to making the Paloma Top again.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em

La Ciotat Skirt

The La Ciotat Skirt stands out as a unique wrap skirt design, offering both style and practicality. Unlike standard wrap skirts, this one features a double front wrap, eliminating any concerns about wardrobe malfunctions. The addition of a flattering waist panel contributes to its elegant silhouette, and the two ties ensure that the skirt stays securely in place.

After purchasing the pattern, I spent some time searching for the perfect fabric. Eventually, I realised that the ideal choice was already in my fabric stash: two and a half metres of Tencel fabric adorned with a Christie Williams print. This fabric had been with me for about three years, cherished for its beautiful colours and its reflection of the distinctive Australian landscape. This project finally provided the perfect opportunity to use it.

The La Ciotat Skirt pattern is comprised of rectangles for the main body and curved pieces for the waist panel. It offers flexibility, allowing sewists to either print the pattern or cut pieces directly from the measurements provided. I selected size L, which suited my measurements of a 33-inch waist and 40-inch hips. The finished skirt ends just at the top of my ankles, which I find to be a flattering length. I did not need to make any modifications to the pattern.

This pattern is straightforward to sew, featuring pieces that fit together logically and a flexible skirt style that eliminates the need for a toile. Beginners will find Sewing Therapy’s YouTube tutorials especially helpful, while the written instructions are clear and beneficial for more experienced sewists. I personally enjoy watching Sara’s videos while sewing; her teaching style is both relaxing and informative.

Every time I work with a Sewing Therapy pattern or watch one of Sara’s videos, I pick up a new tip or technique. For this project, I tried her suggested method for creating gathers. Rather than using the traditional double line of long stitches, I increased the stitch length and tension, as advised. This approach produced beautiful gathers, but I would recommend leaving very long thread tails for adjustments. I nearly ran out of thread tail, but fortunately, it all worked out in the end.

My spring–summer handmade wardrobe is growing, and I’m becoming more confident in my creations. I’m looking forward to wearing my skirt on windy days and sunny days! I’m so excited to be getting around to using some of my “good” fabric.

Thanks for reading and happy sewing!

X Em